How do Solo Shooters Figure Out Where Their Shots Went?

Buck Wilde

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Dec 6, 2020
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I took a precision rifle course this year, and I learned how to use a Kestrel. I have an 850-yard range within driving range. I bought myself an RPR.

I want to start shooting. Problem: I am not set up for spotting. I won't have anyone with me when I'm shooting, so what's the answer?

Should I take my own steel and paint it so I can find the hits?

I haven't bought a spotting scope because I shoot alone.

I also have a .204 Ruger rifle. Hoping to shoot at 400.
 
i have to shoot by myself as well.
i bought a spotting scope and record through my cellphone, but ideally your recoil control will eventually allow you to spot your own through your scope (you might need to reduce magnification).

this was my first effort. cheap svbony spotter and cheap universal phone adapter.

 
Fundamentals,

By properly executing the fundamentals you should be able to see the results of your impact

if you watch any SH video, most of the time I am alone, no camera people, no help, just me on the range.



latest video, I am spotting in real time alone, talking on camera as I do it, basically I am my own narrator

Takes practice, but it's doable regardless, called Recoil Management
 
Thanks for the help.

My instructors taught me to shoot prone, and they said to square up to the target instead of angling my body. Other than that, I don't recall any info on managing recoil. Is there an area on the forum when I can find tips?

How big is that large target? I have some steel set up for rimfire and pistols, but the biggest targets are 12".
 
If shooting steel you just need to learn how to manage recoil and you will be able to see your hits or misses.
When I first tried this I had the optic magnification set too high so seeing the impacts was all but impossible.
Lowering the magnification made a word of difference.

The quality of the optic and the caliber of the rifle plays heavily into seeing the hits and even more so the misses.
A .224 bullet splash at 800 is harder to see than say a 6.5mm bullet, if the ground is wet sometimes its impossible to
see the misses.

Its something you have to learn to do through practice.
 
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Thanks for the help.

My instructors taught me to shoot prone, and they said to square up to the target instead of angling my body. Other than that, I don't recall any info on managing recoil. Is there an area on the forum when I can find tips?

How big is that large target? I have some steel set up for rimfire and pistols, but the biggest targets are 12".
i think that target is 18"

recoilmanagement







 
I have spotted my own shots a lot, and the further you shoot the easier it is. More flight time means more time to get back on target and watch for the impact or dust. That said, a very effective muzzle brake or suppressor will also help with recoil management (muzzle brake might kick up dust, depending on your range). The RPR comes with a decent muzzle break, and the 204 should be low enough recoiling to not need one so you should be all set.
 
I just found a Sniper's Hide video on recoil management.

I haven't been thinking much about recoil because I don't feel it much when shooting prone. I have been avoiding putting pressure on the rifle except with my cheek and shoulder because I didn't want my hands to introduce movement. I guess I have some things to learn. I was just getting happy with my groups, too. The RPR is pretty reliably 0.5 to 1 MOA in my yard. Hope I don't have to start from scratch.

I was asking about the steel size because I was wondering what most people used. Not related to the spotting issue. When I took my class, I never actually got close enough to a target to see how big it was.
 
i think the size depends on if you want to make it harder or easier to hit them, and what kind of accuracy you expect from your rifles.
it shouldn't be that hard to spot hits, but spotting misses might be harder depending on what is behind the targets.
 
I just found a Sniper's Hide video on recoil management.

I haven't been thinking much about recoil because I don't feel it much when shooting prone. I have been avoiding putting pressure on the rifle except with my cheek and shoulder because I didn't want my hands to introduce movement. I guess I have some things to learn. I was just getting happy with my groups, too. The RPR is pretty reliably 0.5 to 1 MOA in my yard. Hope I don't have to start from scratch.

I was asking about the steel size because I was wondering what most people used. Not related to the spotting issue. When I took my class, I never actually got close enough to a target to see how big it was.
Steel size depends on skill, but 1 MOA is a normal small target (8 or 10 inch at 850 yards). 2 moa is much easier to hit without being a complete walk in the park.
 
With the RPR I bet your running the 6.5. Look in to a apa fat bastard brake. That will help you along the way to spotting the shots.

You're right. I took the easy route and went 6.5. I wanted to have equipment a lot of other people had, so there would be a lot of information and very little mystery. My instructor suggested the RPR and the Gen 2 Viper PST, so that's exactly what I bought. I was not thrilled with the trigger and bolt shroud, so I replaced both. I built a platform in my pasture for prone shooting, and that's about as far as I've gone. No spotting scope or rangefinder yet.

I bought a big box of S&B FMJ just so I wouldn't run completely out of ammo during the shortage. I bought 500 140-grain Nosler Accubond hunting bullets and some Starline brass, but I haven't done anything with them yet. I have a little bit of ELD-M in 140 and 147. That's where it stands.

When I showed up for my class, I had an LR-308 and a Leupold VX3 with a varmint reticle. You could say I stood out.
 
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It sounds like I should be okay with 12" targets at first. The range requires people to qualify at 400, so that's where I would be starting.
 
I had two instructors, and they covered a lot with the two days they had. It's possible he said some things I forgot.

I'm trying to find the online training. Perhaps some kind, patient person will give me a hint.
 
I've been watching some stuff on Youtube, and I'm already seeing some conflict with what I was taught.

Before I go further, let me say I went to Altus Shooting Solutions in Baker, Florida. I was taught by a couple of former military snipers. One was named Spenser Berry. Can't recall the other guy's name. People are starting to criticize, so I thought I should say where I went. For all I know, these guys are members of this forum, and I wouldn't want anyone to start piling on them without knowing who they are. As far as I could tell, they were great instructors, but if I knew anything, I wouldn't be taking classes. They got me on steel with an LR-308 and a deer scope that had run out of clicks at 1067 yards, so they impressed me.

They told me not to load my bipod. I saw a Sniper's Hide video teaching the opposite. At Altus, I was told that bipod loading was a cheap, fast way the military taught snipers to tighten their groups. They said it helped sniper schools get people out the door faster, but that it wasn't a great idea, because a loaded bipod will flex a rifle, and the amount of flexing isn't consistent from one shot to the next.

Because they taught me this, I don't load my bipod. I thought I was doing the right thing, and the last time I shot 5-round groups with the RPR, all groups were sub-MOA, and one was well under half an inch. I wasn't thinking at all about recoil control or doing my own spotting. I was trying to touch the gun as little as possible with my hands. I believe the gun's muzzle usually moves to the left.

I learned to grip the gun with my right thumb parallel to the barrel on the right side of the gun, because putting it over the grip could cause movement. I don't bother putting my fingers around the grip, either, because they can move when I press the trigger. Should I be using my right hand to control recoil with 6.5 Creedmoor? I could rest the tips of my fingers on the front of the grip, I guess. I could push backward that way, and I wouldn't have to worry about moving the POA if my fingers tightened when I pressed the trigger.
 
I would honestly sign up for the online training. When I didn't know anything, it really put me light years ahead and money saved on trying to learn from my mistakes of wasted ammo. I think it's only $18 bucks. I just recently resubbed for a year and am rewatching all the videos again. Your return on investment can't be that bad lol.
 
not wrapping your thumb is more or less typical or fairly common for precision shooting (or hunting with a normal stock).
personally i use a thumb rest.
 
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Best thing that will help you become better at recoil management was signing up for the online training here. Follow the advice from those above especially lowlight. I would second that at 400 yds w your scope dialed out and some practice you should see improvement rather quickly.

Not sure if it was mentioned, but I’d even suggest filming yourself while shooting and recording what your noticing. You could review the film and compare your improvements to the training videos you’re getting here. Keep practicing and it will come.
 
If you're shooting into a cratered berm that is exploding on impact you need to watch the result of the impact. Like dirt falling or sliding behind the target was high, know the wind, dust drifting away from the target but not behind or across it and vice versa and so forth. Of course, you need to still be on target after you send it and that has been covered already. Shooting with wind flags is cheating. Shooting with a spotter is cheating, lol.
 
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Do you have the course instruction material from Altus? I would review that. They have top notch instructors, so I would say you went to the right people for a 2 day course.

It's been said before but recoil management is the key to spotting your shots, period. Regardless of target size. No need to load the bipod... If you shoot outside of prone, do you load a bipod...? No. It's just another variable to introduce into your shooting. In the meantime, do your fundamentals, shoot in the prone, and practice at 400 before going to 800+.

Good luck on your journey.
 
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I didn't get instruction material, but I took notes. I hope I'm not misrepresenting anything I was taught.

I finally located the training stuff on the forum.
 
Even though I love shooting with a can, a brake is going to help more, the trade off is it being very loud. The APA little bastard works very good.

Adding weight to the rifle is another way to help with recoil.
 
Here’s a through the scope video with a suppressed 6.5 that shows how you can spot with recoil control. I think this was at 780 or so. The thought process was- Wind is switching so hold center, couldn’t see an impact. Change targets to hopefully get more action on impact. Hold center, splash was left and dust cloud moved quickly left so I need to hold right. Hold right, good impact.



The biggest keys to recoil control are- 1, getting yourself squarely connected to the ground and then connecting the rifle to you via your firing hand pulling straight down the line of the rifle, ON YOUR NPA. Most guys are connecting the rifle to the ground and then connecting themselves to the rifle. There’s no way to be on a NPA like this. 2, make sure not to add any out of line forces to the rifle that the recoil can use to take you off target(big cheek pressure or pushing on the rifle in an attempt to load the bipod can easily take you off target under recoil). This is condensed and there are many other things that can give you trouble with recoil control.
 
I took a precision rifle course this year, and I learned how to use a Kestrel. I have an 850-yard range within driving range. I bought myself an RPR.

I want to start shooting. Problem: I am not set up for spotting. I won't have anyone with me when I'm shooting, so what's the answer?

Should I take my own steel and paint it so I can find the hits?

I haven't bought a spotting scope because I shoot alone.

I also have a .204 Ruger rifle. Hoping to shoot at 400.
I shoot 'alone' a fair amount with 2 pals so what I'm going to outline for you may not be the *right* SH approved way, but it works really well for me. I have not figured out how to shoot prone with my -8.5 Rx prescription lenses so I'm relegated to the bench while my pals shoot prone about 15 yards to my right. I put a ratchet strap around the bench to load my bipod into and I can spot 100% of my shots easily at any distance at maximum magnification which is nice. When mirage is at it's worst we usually take time to put 2 to 3 sets of eyes on steel from 1000 and out it's just darn tough in those conditions to see paint chip.
 
A Shotmarker is the way to go. Put one on your holiday wish list. We use them at the club where I shoot in a 600 yard league, and they are the bomb! On your phone or tablet, you instantly and precisely see not only your last shot, but all the shots in your string. The Shotmarker sets up its own wifi network. I have used it out to 1000 yards, without a problem. It would probably go further if I had a place to test it at a longer range.
 
SOLO SHOOTER TO SOLO SHOOTER
1. Recoil management, natural point of aim is the most important thing you can learn., at 1000 plus yards you will be able to see your impacts in the dirt easy. 2. Paint your target in a color that will give you the greatest contrast upon impact.
3. At extended ranges a good 60 power spotting scope will be helpful in locating your impacts. 4. Cameras work great, I use the Target Vision one mile edition but have only gone out to 1050 yards with it. It has also proven very helpful when shooting reactive paper targets at 300, and 400 yards
 
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I took a precision rifle course this year, and I learned how to use a Kestrel. I have an 850-yard range within driving range. I bought myself an RPR.

I want to start shooting. Problem: I am not set up for spotting. I won't have anyone with me when I'm shooting, so what's the answer?

Should I take my own steel and paint it so I can find the hits?

I haven't bought a spotting scope because I shoot alone.

I also have a .204 Ruger rifle. Hoping to shoot at 400.
Proper recoil management is critical. USSOCOM trains recoil management, running the bolt, and getting back on target to spot own hits. In the interim learning phase, try a cell phone recording through a spotting scope; spotting scope camera to tablet screen; or a range target camera with electronic shot spotting......available for up to a two mile range (as used by teams in the King of Two Miles Competition)........over broad price range $200-$1200.....Caldwell Ballistic Precision LR Target System; Long Shot Hawk Smart Scope Spotting Scope Camera; LongShot Marksman 300yd camera system; LongShot LR-3 2 mile UHD camera system.
 
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