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Rifle Scopes How many MOA is too much?

ATC4USMC

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 22, 2010
102
75
VA
Hello everyone, I'm somewhat new to the forum but getting sucked into long-range and enjoying every minute. I have a quick question I hope to get some expert advice on to help me better set-up my rifle. I have a Remington 700 Magpul hunter in 6.5 Creedmoor and a new NX8 4-32 on the way (courtesy of this forum) that will go on top of a 20 MOA rail.

Question is, I have a set of EGW 0 MOA rings already on the rifle but am thinking I may want to replace them with something with a little more MOA. I'm not sure what direction to go, I would like to have as much adjustment in the scope as possible and my thinking is that if I can add some additional MOA to the scope when mounted, that will allow me to establish my zero closer to the bottom of the adjustment travel on the reticle thus allowing more up-travel adjustment.

Ok flame...and fire away, looking for input, especially anyone with a similar setup. I know that's a long shot with all the AI, DT, and custom build "snobs" on here but I'm sure they started somewhere too!
 
Depends on how much internal adjustment the scope has and how far you want to shoot. Unless you're really trying to stretch it out (1500+) you're probably good with 20 moa (which you have in the rail). Adding another 20 is probably safe, but need scope specs to be sure.
 
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The 20moa base combined with the optic you listed is more than enough for the caliber you are using.
If you get good enough that it is holding you back congratulations you are in the top shooters in the world circle.
 
Just one drop of MOA and you risk getting MOAIDS...

In all seriousness, yes thats exactly how it works and its purpose. 20MOA, 30MOA, 40MOA. Pick your poison each gives you more up by moving your zero further down. If you go too far, you end up not being able to zero at 100. That is where you need to do your home work. Its pretty simple. How much down travel do you have? Do not a get mount that is more than that number. 20 moa is usually plenty.
 
Guess this info would have been helpful:

NX8 Internal Adjustment RangeE: 90 MOA/26 MRAD
W: 70 MOA/20 MRAD
 
So am I safe to assume, I could have 40 MOA between the base and mount and still be able to zero at 100? Realizing that would probably be close to the bottom end of the scope adjustment.
 
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You would be cutting it pretty close, it may work it may not. Around 30 MOA is going to get you to 1k. You will get most of your 90MOA but do you need it?
 
You would be cutting it pretty close, it may work it may not. Around 30 MOA is going to get you to 1k. You will get most of your 90MOA but do you need it?
I will not routinely need it but I have the opportunity to shoot out to a mile here locally and would like to have the full range in the dial without haveing to rely on holdover in the reticle.
 
I found this info from precision rifle blog which is leading me to believe I should be good to go.

Formula To Calculate Ideal Amount Of Taper/Cant For Your Scope
TEAR = Total Elevation Adjustment Range (Ex. 37.6 mils = 126.9 MOA)

Because the absolute center of a particular scope or where your particular rifle will zero can vary slightly, I’d recommend hedging a bit by doing this calculation based on 95% of your TEAR. (Ex. 126.9 x 0.95 = 120.6 MOA)

ITC = Ideal Total Cant. This is the total amount of cant that would put you very close to the “bottom” of your scope’s elevation adjustment range.

ITC = (TEAR x 0.95) ÷ 2

ITC = (126.9 MOA x 0.95) ÷ 2 = 120.6 MOA ÷ 2 = 60.3 MOA