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How many reloads are you getting in your .300WM?

Tactical30

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
May 5, 2009
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Eastern Ohio
I am wondering because I have heard many different things. I have heard guys only getting 2-3 reloads, true?

I am getting components together for my build (.300WM), waiting for build to return from smith.

I am mostly going to be using Winchester Brass. Mainly cuz I could buy it here localy.

I will also be using the Redding Type S Match Bushing Die set.

From what I have been reading here on the Hide I guess I will be FL sizing everything also.

My loads will consisit of 210gr. Bergers VLD's, 190gr SMK's, 220gr. SMK's and H-1000/RL-22 and any 208gr. A-MAX's if they ever make em'!


Should I invest in the Innovative Tech Magnum collet Die?

I was just thinking I should just have Warner Tool make some dies for me (since they are building my rifle). Anyone had dies made by them?

<span style="font-weight: bold">Whats the best route I should go with this?</span>
Thanks
 
Re: How many reloads are you getting in your .300WM?

I am only getting 3 reloads pushing 208's close to 3000 fps. I've tried every magic bullet out there except one. So, last week, I dropped $180 on the Innovative Tech setup. Reports to follow.
 
Re: How many reloads are you getting in your .300WM?

I got the collet die from Larry Willis to resize the base. So far, I must say that I have more than 10 reloads with my Winchester brass. So it's definitiely worth the money to get the collet die.
 
Re: How many reloads are you getting in your .300WM?

Invest in a good annealing system. In mine after the second firing I can feel the neck difference when seating, and see it down range. I've Rem brass that's on it's 6-8th and still going strong. Alot depends on your chamber and how much set back you do each time. I've a A-19 chamber thats normally used with A-191 ammo, but I FL size, which means it will eat alot of dirt if it has to. Just a 0.001 set back and your brass should go along time. Remington brass seems to last longer an print better than Winchester in the 300, in my .308 it's the other way around.
 
Re: How many reloads are you getting in your .300WM?

Bart Bobbitt 2006 responding to me about how to custom headspace a 300WM:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When the 30 caliber belted cases were king of the 1000 yard prone
matches, folks got best accuracy with new cases headspacing on the
belt. Accuracy was based on shooting at least 20 shot strings; 25 was
common. New cases in a minimum SAAMI chamber shot Sierra Match Kings
no worse than 7 inches at 1000 yards. Which means sometimes a 5-shot
group would be 3 to 4 inches and a 10-shot group sometimes in the 4 to
6 inch range.

Both military and civilian top marksmen tried full-length sizing fired
cases such that they would headspace on the belt, but accuracy wasn't
as good. They tried neck only sizing; same results, often worse. Yes,
I know the long range benchresters liked to neck size their cases, but
they also got groups ranging from 4 or 5 inches up to over 12 inches
evidenced by their 3- to 5-group aggregates (averages). The problem
was the fired cases had an extra step in front of the belt. When the
firing pin drove the case forward to stop with its belt against the
chamber headspacing step and burning powder expands the case, the case
shoulder gets pushed forward against the chamber shoulder. Then the
case head gets pushed back against the bolt face taking the belt with
it and the case body immediately in front of the belt expands against
the chamber wall.

Now there's a step in front of the belt that regular full-length and
neck sizing dies won't get rid of. As the extractor in the bolt face
pushes the case head to one side when the round's chambered, that step
interferes with the chamber headspacing step so the belt doesn't easily
seat against it. When the firing pin strikes the primer and drives the
case forward (if the case isn't already as far forward it will go from
ejector spring pressure), that step on the case sliding off the
headspacing step in the chamber sets up unwanted vibrations. Depending
on where that step contacts the chamber, the resultant changes in
barrel whip cause bullets to be launched and greater and more varying
angles than the interference-free headspacing new cases have. It's
much the same thing as an out of square bolt face contacting a
previously fired case at their combined high points; groups open up
quite a bit.

Someone figured out that a way to get rid of that extra step on belted
cases was to cut off the bottom 3/8ths of an inch of a full-length
sizing die and to top of the die just below its body-shoulder junction.
Clean up and slightly radius these cut off areas, then set the die in
the press such that a fired case could be body sized all the way to the
belt reducing that horrible step back to almost new case diameter.
This "belted body die" is best used after running a fired case through
a regular full-length sizing die such that the shoulder's set back
about .005-inch ensuring the case will headspace on the belt. Set the
body sizing die such that its bottom just touches the fired case belt.
If the sized case diameter immediately in front of the belt isn't back
to no more than .001-inch over new case diameter, cut another 1/8th
inch off the bottom of this body die, clean it up then try again.

All the Winchester belted cases I've used are about .217-inch from head
to the front of the belt. Minimum SAAMI headspace is .220-inch;
maximum is .223-inch. Which means the fire case shoulder's got to be
set back at least .003-inch when resized so it'll headspace on the
chamber step; more if your chamber is at the long end of the
headspacing range. In measuring head-to-shoulder headspace on new
belted cases, they're at least .006-inch shorter than SAAMI minimum.
Those new cases do indeed headspace on their belts.

I don't think any extra belt relief on any H & H style cartridge is a
good idea. It'll only let a larger step show up in front of the belt
when a new case is fired. And I think the bigger that step is, the
more accuracy will be degraded.

I asked RCBS to make such a die in the early 1970's but they said there
would be no market for it. Now there's a collet version; checkout
www.larrywillis.com. </div></div>

I am now custom headspacing my rifles at .215".

Bart Bobbitt 1994:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">: I also heard that you can only stuff belted mags two or three times.

I also have heard that comment. And here's the reason why it happens.
The case is full-length sized too much such that the shoulder is set
back too far. When it's fired, the case blows forward and thins the
brass just in front of the belt. Seeings that many sizing dies for
belted cases are positioned in the press to set the shoulder back many
thousandths of an inch. Definitely not a good thing to do. I've seen
several dozen rifles for belted cases have this happen with reloads.

If you back the die out of the press just a tad, then size the cases to
where the shoulder is set back no more than one or two thousandths of
an inch, this problem goes away. But sometimes, another one is caused.
The body in front of the belt isn't sized down enough and then the case
can't be chambered. If your rifle's chamber is not too long in head to
shoulder headspace, you probably won't have any problems. If it is
too long, then your case life may well be short. An RCBS Precision Mic
is a great tool to measure both fired and sized case head-to-shoulder
headspace. After the first firing from a new belted case, it should
headspace on the shoulder in the chamber, not the belt, if long case
life is important.

I've a batch of .30-338 cases that I've full-length sized sixteen times.
They've been trimmed about every 5 loadings. Maximum loads are used each
time. And I know lots of folks who get 20 to 25 loads from similar cases.
But they've set their die correctly for the chamber the cases are used in.
And the chambers are of correct dimensions, too.

So, belted case life depends on three things:

* Chamber dimensions.

* Die dimensions.

* Die position in the press. </div></div>
 
Re: How many reloads are you getting in your .300WM?

Anneal every 3 firings and use Larry Willis to resize die also plus tighten primer pockets with RCBS pocket swedge. 10 so far
 
Re: How many reloads are you getting in your .300WM?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clark</div><div class="ubbcode-body">So, belted case life depends on three things:

* Chamber dimensions.

* Die dimensions.

* Die position in the press. </div></div>

I would add to this stoutness of load.

I first started loading for 300WM with Federal and a little later Nosler brass. As luck would have it, they are almost identical in case volume and weight. The accuracy node for these two (using 208 Amax's)falls at about 2870 fps in my rifle. Case life has been excellent. Almost 20 firings on some of the Nosler. Starting to see case head separation and just cull out the marginal cases using the paper clip check.

I recently bought a lot of Winchester brass. I found an accuracy node for them at 2925+. They are showing loose primer pockets after only 2 firings (no other pressure signs whatsoever), so I'm going to have to step down to the next node.

So you can see, the difference between long life and short life may be only a few fps. A lot of people *might* assume the Winchester brass is to blame. Actually, I've found Federal to be the worst in this regard, so I knew I had a velocity/pressure issue.

John
 
Re: How many reloads are you getting in your .300WM?

The Nosler brass was outstanding. Load and go. Truly within +- .5 gr in weight too. So far, by far, the cheapest/# loadings. It was made by Norma at the time, but recently I've "heard" (internet rumblings) about some problems with Nosler brass, so not sure how I feel at this point.

Winchester was truly the only brass available when I purchased last. It was in need of SERIOUS case prep. In addition to the normal stuff, weight sorting, flash hole deburring, etc., the necks were .017 on one side an .011 in the other. Every piece needed to be neck turned. In addition, I noticed some pretty significant seating pressure, so I annealed them and seating pressure returned to normal and groups cut in half. So it's possible they were underannealed from the factory. Keep in mind that I purchased this lot in the middle of the "Obama OMFG, we're gonna lose all our guns" insanity, so I'm confident Win. was cranking 24/7/365 and QC may have slipped.

I know that Rob01 has been using Win. brass with good success. I wish I had more experience with it to give you some better feedback, but this will be my third firing. It *has* proven to be the most accurate so far, but that could be due to a LOT of factors other than brass.

John