Re: How to hold a stock in a mill or drill press
Regarding my fixture.
I built this in 2004. It's a pair of Kurt Vises, one with gimbled jaws and the other with rigid jaws that are cut out at the bolt handle location so that I can machine those features in the stock as well. They hadnt been used since I left Nesika in 2006. I bought all the stuff I made back from them last summer when I was getting set up. NICE as I was not looking forward to having to do it again.
The vise on the right of this contraption is actually set up as an air table. The whole thing is so damn heavy that I did this so that it'd be easier to position/align the stock with the X axis during set up. Just mash a foot peddle and 20lbs of air picks the vise up slightly so that you can wiggle things easier. The vise on the left is on a big brass pin that allows for rotation.
Nesika's fixturing was waaaay over complicated for what we were doing back then. They had taken a "pallet" approach. Build several fixtures that would captivate the stock from start to finish. It never left the fixture till all the top side work was done. The problem was the set up. It just took too long to align the stock in the thing. IF you got too aggressive with it (like when peeling the action from the stock after a bedding job) the whole thing would slip and you'd be stuck with starting over. The other issue was all the bulk. The clamps and registers were always in the way of what you were trying to do. It just made the process lag.
This fixture was my solution to the problem. One fixture that provides for rapid set up that doesn't leave the machine. Chip to chip I can set up a stock in less than 10 minutes and have it qualified in all 3 axis's. My other solution was to build a "bedding jack" similar in function to a gear puller. Just slap it over the action and it bites the show line of the stock. Tighten two studs and you have a "drama free" method of pulling the action from the stock. Protects the delicate recoil lug area from being dinged up during that initial tug too. No more rocking!
I set my work offsets so that the stock above the right side vise jaws by the radius of the action. This way I can set the receiver on the jaw and visually align/reference the tang location with the stock and establish the X zero position easily. All my programs are written so that the recoil lug/receiver ring is the Zero position.
It sounds complicated, but in practice it goes very quickly.
A piece of leather between the jaws is all you really need to avoid marking up wood. I used to use pieces of fire hose but it brinneled the wood with the fabric weave. Keep in mind I also rip through these at 300 inches per minute and 12K rpm. Great for machined surface finishes but you better be jonny on the spot with your work holding.