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How to use a different zero Kestrel 5700

billyjo

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 29, 2009
10
1
WA
I've gone through and zero'd my rifle at 100 yards and then trued the velocity and BC. I use this rifle for hunting and would like to have a zero of 200 yards or more. How do I do that without messing with anything else. Is it as easy as just zeroing at 200 and then using the muzzle velocity and BC I got when I trued to get there?
 
I've gone through and zero'd my rifle at 100 yards and then trued the velocity and BC. I use this rifle for hunting and would like to have a zero of 200 yards or more. How do I do that without messing with anything else. Is it as easy as just zeroing at 200 and then using the muzzle velocity and BC I got when I trued to get there?
It’s a s easy just leaving your zero at 100 and dialing your 200 drop and then holding for the rest
 
What about once it's dialed in @ 100 I move my zero to be on @ 200 and then use the offset feature?
 
What about once it's dialed in @ 100 I move my zero to be on @ 200 and then use the offset feature?
no. u aren't changing your zero per say. the system is still zeroed at 100 you've just dialed 200. so from there you just hold.

lets say you have to take a 300 yard shot and you know your drop at 300 is say 2.3, and you dialed .5 to get your 200 yd. you would hold 1.8 to take the 300 yard shot.
 
Do you have adjustable turrets on your scope? if so I would do like TacticalDillhole said and just dial your 200 yard drop and leave it there and then super easy to return to 100 yard zero. If this is a hunting only rifle with out adjustable turretsw I would do some research about Maximum point blank and see if that would suit your needs.
 
Thanks for the input so far. I'm using a Z8i 2-16x with a BRH reticle and adjustable turrets on a 28 Nosler and my shots are anywhere between 25 yards and 800 so I want the versatility of being able to dial without doing any math. The scope does have .5 mil holdover marks as well but they're only accurate on full power because of the 2nd focal plane which typically isn't a problem but I want the ability to be more precise if needed by dialing.

I am familiar with PBR but because I hunt at so many different altitudes and conditions the further out ranges start to get a little off so I can't maintain that consistency. And if all that isn't enough I sometimes take out my 375 H&H (same setup) so I'd like to have consistency between all my hunting platforms. That's my reasoning behind trying to find a way to maintain a 200 yard zero plus or minus and then dialing up if needed.
 
Thanks for the input so far. I'm using a Z8i 2-16x with a BRH reticle and adjustable turrets on a 28 Nosler and my shots are anywhere between 25 yards and 800 so I want the versatility of being able to dial without doing any math. The scope does have .5 mil holdover marks as well but they're only accurate on full power because of the 2nd focal plane which typically isn't a problem but I want the ability to be more precise if needed by dialing.

I am familiar with PBR but because I hunt at so many different altitudes and conditions the further out ranges start to get a little off so I can't maintain that consistency. And if all that isn't enough I sometimes take out my 375 H&H (same setup) so I'd like to have consistency between all my hunting platforms. That's my reasoning behind trying to find a way to maintain a 200 yard zero plus or minus and then dialing up if needed.
IMO you are making the water to muddy. Save yourself the headache and work from 100 yard zero. 200 is in no way helping you, If your planning to shoot out to 800 you are going to need to dial regardless (or hold but that's a pita with sfp). With 28 Nosler you should be able to make a dope chart that will hold relatively well to 800 regardless of your weather. Shrink down your dope chart and tape that in your scope cap. If your brain says you absolutely must have a 200 yard zero just crank .4 mil into your turret and leave it there.

The Uniformity between your 28 Nosler and 375 H&H basically stops at the scope. The cartridges are just to different there is no sense in treating them the same. You need to learn the 2 rifles independently.