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How well will this pillar bedding kit work on my stock?

NYH1

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 21, 2013
30
7
New Yorkistan
I have a Remington 700 SPS Varmint stock. I know most guys don't like them and wouldn't waist any time on them. However, I can't buy a new stock anytime soon and would really like to do it to this stock for two reasons, 1- to free float the barrel and bed the action so it'll shoot better. 2- to learn how to do it. Would THIS be a good kit to use on my synthetic stock?

Thanks, NYH1.
 
I have other Remington model 700's both with wood and synthetic stocks that I'd like to work on too down the road.

NYH1.
 
No. The plastic injection molded stocks will continue to flex no matter what you do to them. Just shoot it the way it is until you can bed it into something else. A Boyds laminated Tacticool can be had for just over $100 or a B&C for around $200. Bed either of those and you'll have a gun that will shoot better than you can.
 
I`ve done it and it`s an improvement.....along with reinforceing the forearm with a 5/16" rod and epoxy.Weight added to the buttstock will also help... Not all stock and barrel relationships prosper from a floated barrel......first try std.rem.upward pressure in forearm...it worked on mine
 
I looked at trying to improve the factory tupperware stock on my SPS Varmint. Once I bought the materials to beef up the factory stock I was 1/2 the cost of a Boyds and its still a marginal solution at best. I punted and bought the Boyds Tacicool, used JB Weld to bed the tange in front of the action. I didn't see the need to use pillars and bed the rest of the action, its very tight and the laminated stock isn't going to crush with factory torque specs.
 
I experimented a while ago when my wife first got her synthetic 700 in 300WM. Bought some devcon and filled the entire stock from front to tang. Essentially this made the stock so stiff it was practically an aluminum bat wrapped in plastic. So to answer your question, it did squeeze accuracy out of her standard model, as I was also able to free float and ghetto pillar(found some metal tubing laying around that was perfect size) the stock. All of this for less then sixty dollars while she waited for her Manners. Originally I was going to post the REAL budget precision rifle but I got lazy. I kid you not this method works.
 
For a functional bed job, you might need some masking tape, acetone, qtips, some clamps, and sand paper. Are the pillars cut to the correct length for the gun you want to bed or will they need to be cut by you? The reason I as is because you might need a mill to cut them to length via the bottom metal inlet once they're set. Do you know if you will need to open the action screw holes for the pillars? Same kind of deal.

To make it function, I would bed the pillars first. Let everything set up. Then bed the lug and rear tange. You will be able to do most of the cleanup with acetone and qtips. If you full bed it you will need access to a mill to clean the excess epoxy in the magwell/trigger inlet. I would say you need more epoxy than this kit has to do a full bed job.

Bedding is a process and an art. I would say if you want to bed on your own bed the synthetic stock several times before you touch the wood stock. That way you can determine if you have an artistic hand.
 
This kit won't do anything for an Overmolded or Injection molded stock especially if you intend to shoot from any kind of bag rest or bipod. These stocks are nice and light, making them great for hunting and shooting in traditional prone, sitting, or off hand positions. They suck when the weight of the rifle is placed on the forend when rested on a solid rest and the barrel comes in contact with the barrel channel when fired.
 
I would look into saving a few bucks for a Choate stock that has a V aluminum bedding block. They run about $200 from midway sometimes you can get a better price for it on sale.
 
Ill upload some pictures for a diy guide . :). The sps varmit issues are the soft front and getting the bedding mechanical locked into the plastic.


...
If you snooze it - you loose it
 
The plastic stocks just don't take epoxy well. You can rough it up considerably and drill some small holes to give the bedding areas to migrate into, but it has a tendency to break free from the surface of the plastic over time. Basically, you have a plastic stock that wants to flex and epoxy bedding that does not.

Kirk R
 
Leave it alone, save the money toward a replacement. You'll get marginal results at best. In the end the cash could go to an H-S takeoff or a B&C.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Leave it alone, save the money toward a replacement. You'll get marginal results at best. In the end the cash could go to an H-S takeoff or a B&C.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This would be a great time to visit Stocky's New Rifle Stocks - Gunstock Clearance Sale!

They're having a huge clearance sale with some pretty big savings on stocks of all kinds. Not a "going out of business" sale but a "clear the shelves for a fresh start on an Online Store" sale.

I just picked up another H-S Precision "A-5" for a new build I had originally planned to just use a take-off stock on.

They also have the "6 Months Pay Pal Credit" if you use Pay Pal.
 
Is THIS a good stock? How much work will be needed to make my barreled action fit in it? I want a stock that looks and feels kind of like a factory looking stock. Obviously it's going to have a larger barrel opening.

Thanks again guys, NYH1.
 
Is THIS a good stock? How much work will be needed to make my barreled action fit in it? I want a stock that looks and feels kind of like a factory looking stock. Obviously it's going to have a larger barrel opening.

Thanks again guys, NYH1.



Those a good stocks and I find them comfortable. Barrel channel should be right for the Remington Varmint contour.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Obviously it's going to have a larger barrel opening.

Thanks again guys, NYH1.


It's not unusual for the barrel channel to need opening up on a replacement stock. B&C gives great instructions on how to do it. Just take a piece of larger diameter dowel, wrap some sandpaper around it, and remove any material that contacts the barrel.

A nice easy way to speed the process is to use some "spotting" material. To make your own, take some white (or other light color) oil based paint and thin it down with some thin motor oil. The oil will keep the paint from drying and also allows it to be spread real thin.

Put a very thin coat on the bottom of the rifle barrel and action. I use cotton ball and like I said, make it thin. Put the barreled action in the stock, wiggle it a little and remove. then sand off the spots that have paint marks on them. Repeat frequently. Eventually the paint marks will be continuous from the front of the barrel channel, all the way back to the tang. Once you have full contact, especially in the action area, then just give the barrel channel some extra sanding until you have about 1/16 in. of clearance between barrel and channel. If you want you can apply some spray paint to the bottom of the barrel channel that closely matches the stock exterior. Just mask off at the edge.

Caution, this will take some patience but it's worth it in the end, especially the part were you're fitting the action to the action block. A good fit eliminates the mess of bedding.