Good times......place your shots, and everything will be fine.
What is the "grizz load"? How far out was he? Was the bullet recovered?
Hunting & Fishing Hunting with a .260
- Thread starter gkempf
- Start date
What is the "grizz load"? How far out was he? Was the bullet recovered?
You guys have sold me on a .260! Hopefully I can post some pictures here this fall!
.260 Lapua brass
130gr Swift Scirocco
44.2grs H4350
Tula LRM primer
3000fps
Grizzly was 340 meters broadside. Shot was behind the right front shoulder and left a 1.5" exit hole, running less than 25 yards before dying.
130gr Swift Scirocco
44.2grs H4350
Tula LRM primer
3000fps
Grizzly was 340 meters broadside. Shot was behind the right front shoulder and left a 1.5" exit hole, running less than 25 yards before dying.
Dozens of Alberta Wt's with either .260's or 6.5x55's. 120gr Speer, 120gr TSX, 129gr SST's, 130gr Accubond, 140gr SST's, anywhere from 90 to 400 yards
Mulie at 450 with Berger 130gr and 620 with 136gr Lapua
Bull moose with 140gr Rem Ultra Bonded at 289yds
Cow elk 130gr Accubond 220yd
They work
Mulie at 450 with Berger 130gr and 620 with 136gr Lapua
Bull moose with 140gr Rem Ultra Bonded at 289yds
Cow elk 130gr Accubond 220yd
They work
Mr. Sinclair, I have noticed that most of the animals you have taken have been with 130gr. Bergers but the grizzly was taken with a 130gr. Soroco. Was just curious why and do you tend to use mainly 130gr. bullet in your .260. Really enjoy your post. Thank you.
In addition to the great load information here, is everyone using around a 24" bbl? I'm looking into barrel options now, length wise for a model 10 setup! Thanks!
Tag for future ref.
I don't reload but just grabbed a Tikka T3 Hunter in .260... Anyone have good experience with any of the factory loads out there?
It depends on what your hunting, I guess from your location that you mean to hunt deer. The .260 is a fine choice for that, and the Tikka is a good rifle to do it with. As far as ammunition goes, it's fairly subjective. Your rifle will tell you what is best. Go buy a couple different boxes from the better manufacturers (Hornady, Federal, etc.) and maybe some custom ammo shop (such as Copper creek here on the hide) try a couple different things, and see what your rifle shoots best. Once you settle on something that you can consistently shoot well, buy as much of it as you can afford to, and practice at the ranges you intend to hunt. Dont get too preoccupied with bullet weights and construction, any good bullet loaded in a .260 will handily drop a deer. What matters most is your ability to put the bullet in the right place, every time. Whatever ammunition gives you those results, is the one you should stick with.
Essentially I went with the .260 as a caliber that can take any game in the south east, so you're correct with deer being one of the main game animals I'll be chasing.
The only reason I ask, is because I also have a .308 FN SPR (heavy pig)... The standard answer in the .308 world seems to be Federal Gold Medal Match, across the board (not so much for hunting, but as a general load overall). I just figured there may be a popular, effective factory .260 load to match that stigma that FGMM has.
The main problem I've run into researching what ammo to begin with has been that almost all the .260 shooters reload... Which I probably should've just grabbed a Tikka T3 Lite in .308 to keep the logistics easier, as well as having a bigger selection, but I gotta have what the cool guys have haha. I guess my first stop will be to what MidwayUSA and the like has available, since the custom ammo shops are quite a bit more pricey.
Swift Scirocco, best damn bullet around!!! Missed out on the last time Cabelas had them in 6.5mm 130gr. But I got 500 7mm 150gr and a box of the original Scirocco not the II model.. If anyone knows where some 6.5mm Scirocco's are, let me know...
Good times......place your shots, and everything will be fine.
You need to find ya a friend with a reloading press...
I would buy one... But with how much money I've spent on firearms related stuff on this deployment, I would get shot in the face on arrival. Hopefully very soon I will get myself a single stage and learn how to save some pennies by rolling my own.
When are you coming home? I'm sure there are some folks near you that would be happy to help you out. If not, I could load you some up 
When are you coming home? I'm sure there are some folks near you that would be happy to help you out. If not, I could load you some up
Almost done, getting real close to turning the calendar page one last time and being done.
Let me put it this way, I jumped into the precision game with both feet since I've been here. FN SPR with NF F1, AR RECCE build with PST 2.5-10x32, and now this Tikka (Wanting to order an Manners and Bushy LRHS bad)... I think I bit off a bit more then I can chew in one sitting haha. I have no clue of anyone local to me who reloads, I'm sure there are, I just don't know them. Been going back and forth between ordering a RCBS RockChucker kit or going with a Forester Co-Ax.
Though I would feel a bit bad for having you use what you have to send to me, I could never turn down free ammo. I may have to get up with you when I actually get the rifle in hand and get it good to go.
Game Kings are a known great hunting bullet.. Just avoid any bone hits within 200-250 yds. because of jacket separation. Try to find some type of bonded bullet or if inside 350yd shots are more common, the Swift A-Frame is great deep penetrator and you don't have to worry about the bullet over expanding at all.. Look up North Fork bullets and buy a custom bullet from them.. They are bonded plus you can vary the expansion by ordering various jacket thickness.. Give it a go!
You dont need to worry so much about super bullets. A cheap box of game kings or any other bottom end bullet will kill just fine, jacket separation is not the determining factor in killing cleanly, or even a significant factor. I find jackets routinely, in DEAD animals. Focus your energy on finding a bullet that shoots well instead, your ability to place the shot in the vitals is paramount over any other factor, bullet type, construction, size, weight, bonded or not. When you can hit the vital zone consistently, the bullets design becomes far less important, and with a .260, you'll be stacking up the bodies.
He's not trying to shoot game in the eye!! Match bullets are for paper, and cheap bullets are made of cheap, lead alloys, that come apart! Finding copper jackets within game means you lost a significant amount of penetration, and depending on the angle of the shot, plus the size of game, you will not get an exit hole for blood trails... If you just want to poke a hole, then listen to that advise or use an arrow, and bow, but if you want to drop them in their tracks (with least amount of work finding them) then do some research on Terminal Performance, and Hydrostatic Shock.. You want regret a good hunting bullet choice, plus it doesn't take many.. How many times do you expect to shoot them? When you can find them, buy the Swift Scirocco, like Mr. Gardner was using above. It will expand like a ballistic tip, but penetrate like a Nosler Partition, plus pretty damn accurate.
By the way, I once shot a deer at 300yds. with a GameKing 160gr. in my 7mmSTW. Guess what, the shot went threw the forward front shoulder area, and angled toward the off side. The deer dropped in it's tracks, but got back up 2 min. later. A second shot was called for. See, because of the long distance, I didn't realize how much the deer was angled. The soft bullet, moving at that velocity within that specific range, let me down.. I only use bonded bullets now and have never lost a deer or had a hard time finding a blood trail.. And for the bullet,, I recovered it, and the jacket had shed the core. Point, the bullet lost to much energy, because of jacket core separation.. Basically, my 160gr. bullet, turned into a 80gr. piss ant!!
You are incorrect sir, your experience is yours, but it is not conclusive all by itself. I'm sick of getting drawn into long arguments with people who think that trophy bonded accu partition bullets are going to make the difference between a good shot and a bad one. If you think 80 gr of bullet wont blow through a deer at 300 yds you need to get out more, and as for never loosing an animal to your super bullets, give it enough time and you will. Especially if you keep shooting at poor angles. And thanks for making my point, if you'd have hit that deer in the right spot, he'd of never gotten up, whether it was 160gr or 80gr.(coincidentally, yours is the same story told by most people who blame bullet failure)
But we are hijacking this thread too far already, this is a nice thread about hunting with a .260, lets let it stay that way instead of turning into another useless debate about my bullet choice is better because I chose it and I need to be right. Your bullets work fine, my bullets work fine, every man can make his choice and enjoy hunting with what he chooses.
I'm sure some of you have already seen this pic, but in the interest of getting back on topic, here is a nice Rock Chuck I shot a few weeks back with my .260, it was around 480yds if I recall, 140gr Barnes Match Burner.
But we are hijacking this thread too far already, this is a nice thread about hunting with a .260, lets let it stay that way instead of turning into another useless debate about my bullet choice is better because I chose it and I need to be right. Your bullets work fine, my bullets work fine, every man can make his choice and enjoy hunting with what he chooses.
I'm sure some of you have already seen this pic, but in the interest of getting back on topic, here is a nice Rock Chuck I shot a few weeks back with my .260, it was around 480yds if I recall, 140gr Barnes Match Burner.
Its amazing any animals ever died before the advent of bonded bullets and solids...
It will take bonded and barnes bullets a LOOOOONG time if ever to catch up to the amount of animals killed by simple cup/core bullets. Its not the arrow in most cases. With cup/core its much more important to match the size/weight of the bullet to the animal your hunting. Most hunters have not shot enough game to realize that the contorted ways animals stand in the real world don't give the perfect broadside or straight on angles to vitals they may appear. I have even hit a little off of what I thought I was going to on some angles. Anatomy is something to study hard, when you gut an animal is the time to see where things are and ponder where they might be when looking at game from different angles. Rarely does a bullet veer sharply without hitting a large bone. If the caliber is well matched, the bullet is going to blow through that bone. A flat scapula could deflect about anything some percentage of the time if hit at a sharp angle. There is an undeniable step in performance in a larger array of situations with bonded bullets, and x bullets have their limitations as well as cup/core IMHO. Photos of failures of all can be found. With projectiles in the real world, I feel there is no guarantee ever. Shoot accurately and be prepared to shoot again quick.
It will take bonded and barnes bullets a LOOOOONG time if ever to catch up to the amount of animals killed by simple cup/core bullets. Its not the arrow in most cases. With cup/core its much more important to match the size/weight of the bullet to the animal your hunting. Most hunters have not shot enough game to realize that the contorted ways animals stand in the real world don't give the perfect broadside or straight on angles to vitals they may appear. I have even hit a little off of what I thought I was going to on some angles. Anatomy is something to study hard, when you gut an animal is the time to see where things are and ponder where they might be when looking at game from different angles. Rarely does a bullet veer sharply without hitting a large bone. If the caliber is well matched, the bullet is going to blow through that bone. A flat scapula could deflect about anything some percentage of the time if hit at a sharp angle. There is an undeniable step in performance in a larger array of situations with bonded bullets, and x bullets have their limitations as well as cup/core IMHO. Photos of failures of all can be found. With projectiles in the real world, I feel there is no guarantee ever. Shoot accurately and be prepared to shoot again quick.
^this
I got my pick of 130gr. Berger VLD's here, it's the Hybrids that's hard to get! But, I have a local store stocked full of 130gr. VLD..
I'd say put the VLD hunting behind the shoulder and you'll have a dead animal...
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
127 LRX is my favorite .260 pill. I'm on a mono-metal hunting bullet kick over the last few years.
The 140 SGK, 120 Fusion and 140 Accubond have all been GTG, too.
The 140 SGK, 120 Fusion and 140 Accubond have all been GTG, too.
Where can I get some quality, reasonably priced .260 ammo for hunting? Apparently Rem .260 brass is currently non existent so good loads are at 300WM prices. Any advice?
Did you read the thread?
If you cant find it, make it, find you some .243 brass if you cant find .260. 7-08 and .308 can also be used, but a bit more work. If you cant make it, find somebody who will.
There is plenty of factory ammo around, but as you mentioned its far too expensive, so making it is the better opition.
Federal Fusion 120gr SBT, about $30 most places that stock it.
My "if it won't shoot sub-MOA the barrel's bad" load is a 120gr Nosler Ballistic Tip over 39.3gr Varget in RP brass. Not blazing fast (2800fps from a 22" barrel) but it is hell on whitetail and has been accurate for me in three different 260s from 20 to 26" barrel length and both 1:8 and 1:9 twists.
Barnes TSX - 130 grain
A-frame - 140 grain
Barnes TSX is my top choice in a hunting bullet.
A-frame - 140 grain
Barnes TSX is my top choice in a hunting bullet.
Have you had any luck with the Fusion 120gr at the 500yd mark? Thanks for the advice on the load as well. I currently don't reload but it looks like I'm going to have to. I'll have to do some research and see if there's any decent factory loads as well.
I read the thread I just don't currently reload. When I had my .260 built I could get match grade ammo from Copper Creek or Southwest for a reasonable price. Now that Rem brass is gone that's no longer an option. I guess I should've known that most reload for .260 but I was hoping guys had some good experience with factory loads.
Never shot any, actually - have always rolled my own for 260 - but the Fusion is "quality, reasonably priced ammo for hunting".
Is it too late for you to switch the rifle to 6.5 Creedmoor...?
Yeah it's to late. I'm not unhappy with my choice (260) I was just pumped to get match grade ammo for $30 a box. I'm sure the Lapua brass is worth it but like I said before, I'm not currently reloading. Another hide member is going to hook me up with some loaded ammo in Rem brass which is awesome!
You could always sell the once fired Lapua brass to offset your initial costs...it wouldn't last long if the price is right.
rgrmike,
I can't say it was 500 yards, but last year I killed 2 ten pointers, 2 does, an audad and a BIG axis. All three were shot with Fusion 120 grn. The furthest shot was 250 on the audad, and it was a complete pass through. It was surprisingly accurate in my rifle. That rifle was a factory Rem model 7, but is currently at the smith getting worked over. Can't wait to get it back. I have to say it is my favorite hunting caliber hands down.
I can't say it was 500 yards, but last year I killed 2 ten pointers, 2 does, an audad and a BIG axis. All three were shot with Fusion 120 grn. The furthest shot was 250 on the audad, and it was a complete pass through. It was surprisingly accurate in my rifle. That rifle was a factory Rem model 7, but is currently at the smith getting worked over. Can't wait to get it back. I have to say it is my favorite hunting caliber hands down.
Nice Pat. I want to call the yotes with you one day. Its on my bucket list......really
If you ever make it out this way, look me up.....
.260's make very good coyote rifles.....these four were taken from one stand between 200 and 600 meters.
If you ever make it out this way, look me up.....
.260's make very good coyote rifles.....these four were taken from one stand between 200 and 600 meters.
i make it out there every year...i would love to hunt with the man, the myth, the legend....psinclair!
Don't tempt me....grin...... I just might venture into the promised land. I've got a gap 260 or two that wants/needs some fresh mountain air. Lol
Thanks for the tips. I have purchased a variety of ammo and as soon as my rifle gets here I'll see what it likes. I'll have a lot of Rem brass so I should be good to go for a while. I've learned a lot on here and hopefully I have a successful hunt this year. I'm from a shotgun only region so I'm very excited to get to use a rifle. I'll be training a lot the next couple months so I'll figure out what my "ethical range" is and hopefully I get lucky and bag an elk this year.
I'm still waiting for a GAP Non-Typical in .260 to come up for sale on here. I seldom see them for sale which says a lot. SAC is currently putting together a .260 for me but I'd like to have a Non-Typical because it's so handy. I like lighter rifle more and more everyday.
Mr. Sinclair, I noticed in your post that most of your animals were taken with130gr. Bergers but you chose to use a Sirocco for you grizzly. Was just curious why and seems you prefer 130gr. bullets out of the .260. Really enjoy your post. Thank you
260!works great shot a couple deer and coyotes stopped a 100 pound pig with a shoulder shot at 300yards no problem I was shooting a dpms lr 260 with remington premium 120 ballistic tips and 130vlds.
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