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Rifle Scopes I screwed up

mercracing

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Feb 9, 2013
    1,955
    887
    Green Bay, WI
    Hey guys. I just got a Vortex Viper 6.5x20x44 and mounted it up on my 300WM. Took it out to the range this afternoon to sight it in and what do I find? I can use the scope up to around 14x before needing to move my face closer to the scope. And we all know what happens when we move our faces closer to the scope on a 300WM. I still have the headache to prove it. So here I am with a scope I can't return and a dilemma. Do I keep using the scope but can only go to 14x? Do I try and sell it and look at getting something with more eye relief? Do I curse myself for being stupid and not looking at the specs first? Helpful thoughts appreciated.
     
    Hey guys. I just got a Vortex Viper 6.5x20x44 and mounted it up on my 300WM. Took it out to the range this afternoon to sight it in and what do I find? I can use the scope up to around 14x before needing to move my face closer to the scope. And we all know what happens when we move our faces closer to the scope on a 300WM. I still have the headache to prove it. So here I am with a scope I can't return and a dilemma. Do I keep using the scope but can only go to 14x? Do I try and sell it and look at getting something with more eye relief? Do I curse myself for being stupid and not looking at the specs first? Helpful thoughts appreciated.

    Take a look at the Zeiss Conquest Series. They have very generous eye relief.
     
    What bender said. You can turn that wm into a pussycat (243 like recoil) and if you are loading the bipod you shouldn't really have much movement towards your eye anyway. Good luck

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    What bender said. You can turn that wm into a pussycat (243 like recoil) and if you are loading the bipod you shouldn't really have much movement towards your eye anyway. Good luck

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    Currently I am shooting off front and rear bags. Haven't gotten a bipod yet.


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    Sounds like you learned your lesson in that you need to have your scope set to max power when adjusting eye relief during scope mounting. As far as the scope bite goes, you need to work on your form to better manage the recoil. I'd suggest taking a look at the Hide's online training for some quick and cheap instruction.
     
    I mean this only as a question. No sarcasm. Can better form or using a bipod really help with not getting bit by the scope? The higher power I set the scope to, the closer I need my eyes. This is a 300 and it does have some kick to it. Once again only asking. Not trying to be rude or sarcastic. I'm still new to a lot of this.


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    Yeah, I understand that the higher power you use the shorter the eye relief is going to be. That's why you do mounting on full power as that's when setup of the scope is going to be the least forgiving.

    Proper management of the recoil through good application of form will make an amazing amount of difference. You'd be amazed at how much some basic adjustments to your positioning can tame the recoil of the rifle.
     
    I mean this only as a question. No sarcasm. Can better form or using a bipod really help with not getting bit by the scope? The higher power I set the scope to, the closer I need my eyes. This is a 300 and it does have some kick to it. Once again only asking. Not trying to be rude or sarcastic. I'm still new to a lot of this.


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    With a bipod, you should 'load' the pod so there is constant tension against your shoulder. If you are using decent form (see the courses on this very website) your rifle really shouldn't hop or jump back much because it will be held into place. I shoot a 338 Lapua (braked) but it still kicks a bit and I also shoot 7mm mag, 300 win, 6.5 Creedmoor, etc. Yes the bigger guns will move more but even with the win mag you should be able to keep a decent bit of control over it with good form. I would suggest a muzzle brake though, it will help you immensely. The difference is substantial.

    If the recoil is still a problem, you can borrow my 6 lb 12 gauge single shot with some 3.5" 00 buck. Shoot it once or twice and your 300 will feel like a bb gun.

    In the end I would invest in a bipod first, then if you want a brake later.



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    If the recoil is still a problem, you can borrow my 6 lb 12 gauge single shot with some 3.5" 00 buck. Shoot it once or twice and your 300 will feel like a bb gun.

    This. I hunted with a .300wm for years without a problem, but when I moved to New York and had to use a slug gun, I was shocked at the increased recoil. First time I ever got hit by a scope (and it was a 4x). The 300 IS soft by comparison...
     
    According to the Vortex website the eye relief is 3.1-3.4" in theory at 20x my eye should be 3.1" from the scope correct? I'll have to try and measure it. I don't think it was close to that. Maybe something is messed up with the scope?


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    No way to sugar-coat this....

    Hate to tell you, but you mounted your scope incorrectly. Eye-relief should always be set with the scope set to max magnification when mounting the scope. If you're just starting out to the point of not even owning a bipod, you have no business with a .300 WM.

    Sell that thing and get a .308 Win or .223 Rem and learn the fundamentals. Even unbraked, a .300 WM shouldn't be busting you like that.

    What on earth possessed you to go with a .300 Win anyway?????
     
    I personally find 3.5" of eye relief necessary for a 300WM. You can make it work with less, you can work on your form, get a muzzle brake, etc., but you are still going to get tapped every now and again. Especially if you are using this gun for hunting - your form in a tree stand isn't always perfect, you might be contorting because the game animal popped up behind your, or your adrenaline is pumping and you simply forgot to keep your head back.

    I would suggest getting a different scope for the 300WM and a new short action non-magnum rifle for that Vortex scope. ;)
     
    No way to sugar-coat this....

    Hate to tell you, but you mounted your scope incorrectly. Eye-relief should always be set with the scope set to max magnification when mounting the scope. If you're just starting out to the point of not even owning a bipod, you have no business with a .300 WM.

    Sell that thing and get a .308 Win or .223 Rem and learn the fundamentals. Even unbraked, a .300 WM shouldn't be busting you like that.

    What on earth possessed you to go with a .300 Win anyway?????

    I own a bipod it's just on another gun. I learned from here that yes, I didn't mount the scope correct. It happens. As far as why I have a 300 it's because I have an uncle who is downsizing his gun collection and I am upsizing mine. I get family discounts. :) and yes, I apparently do need to learn the fundamentals.


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    Do yourself a favor and save up for an Atlas, you can always swap it amongst rifles to offset the cost until you get more...they tend to multiply because they are worth it. If you already have a cheap bipod you can always use that until you can spring for the Atlas.
     
    The current plan so far is to do most/all of the above mentioned. I picked up a bipod from a friend to start. I am looking to sell the scope and get one with more eye relief. I will be subscribing to get the Hide video training. And will be looking into getting the barrel threaded for a brake and a cap.


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    that is what i would do. i have found that i have to be careful choosing and mounting scopes on my 300wm. but it can do things a 308 and 223 can not. it is a great round but i am very careful to get my scope mounted as far away from my face as i can. i got rid of my 308 with a muzzle brake the noise is worse than the recoil. a 308 does not have much anyway. there is no amount of form that will make the 300wm recoil like a 308. get as much eye relief as you can for the magnum calibers. you could save the scope for a 223 or 308 in the future. and purchase something else for the 300wm.