I should have asked here first. Oh well, did I waste my money?

[filefish]

Is this stuff any good? I’m tired of dealing with mixed headstamps and trying to make them work so this seemed like a good value from a trusted brand but should I try to cancel my order and go a different rout?

.223 Brass | .223 Remington Brass in Stock | Midsouth Shooters

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[sleeplz]

223 Remington Brass - Small Rifle - Brass Cases

It's just what I use, but I'm sure remmy brass is fine.

 

[straightshooter1]

Is this stuff any good? I’m tired of dealing with mixed headstamps and trying to make them work so this seemed like a good value from a trusted brand but should I try to cancel my order and go a different rout?

.223 Brass | .223 Remington Brass in Stock | Midsouth Shooters

Midsouth Shooters knows the best reloading starts with the right rifle brass. Check out our current selection of .223 Remington brass for reloading below!

www.midsouthshooterssupply.com

I guess it just depends on what kind of shooting you do. For plinking . . . yeah, a good deal. For precision shooting, nhaaa . . . they're too inconsistent requiring sorting and a lot of work to get them tuned. IMHO

 

[lash]

I guess it just depends on what kind of shooting you do. For plinking . . . yeah, a good deal. For precision shooting, nhaaa . . . they're too inconsistent requiring sorting and a lot of work to get them tuned. IMHO

Have you used any of the Norma .223 brass and are talking from experience or just repeating what you’ve read? I’m only asking because I’ve been using Norma/RUAG brass for my .260 the past couple years and have not found the inconsistencies you are talking about.

In fact, this brass (400 cases) has been better than anything I’ve used so far. Very consistent in weight, size, neck wall thickness, primer flash holes, etc. Over a dozen reloads on these and no sign of loose pockets or other failures. The biggest issue I have is the attrition rate of lost brass at matches. I’m down below 250 cases now, which is barely enough to keep them in rotation.

 

[filefish]

Have you used any of the Norma .223 brass and are talking from experience or just repeating what you’ve read? I’m only asking because I’ve been using Norma/RUAG brass for my .260 the past couple years and have not found the inconsistencies you are talking about.

In fact, this brass (400 cases) has been better than anything I’ve used so far. Very consistent in weight, size, neck wall thickness, primer flash holes, etc. Over a dozen reloads on these and no sign of loose pockets or other failures. The biggest issue I have is the attrition rate of lost brass at matches. I’m down below 250 cases now, which is barely enough to keep them in rotation.

Either way, I’m going to be miles ahead of the mixed headstamp I’m using now?

 

[Idaho-5R]

Well, This day & age, those Norma 223 cases don't look all that bad!!!! At least when I looked they were still in stock.. If a person didn't need that many, you could easily sell the extras!!!!!

 

[Snuby642]

Recently tried my best at mixed range brass headstamps on 223.
You can get 2 1/2 moa but for all that effort I have started sorting.

Have a sorted short range round in work that has went to 1.24 or .98 mean radius.

Alot of work to get there.

The dozens of hours you saved buying that brass will be worth it.

Work up a virgin brass load then shoot all of them. You will have to make some adjustments to the fire formed load.

You did not make any mistake.
Imho

 

[Howland]

You done good. That'll be fine.

The only downside is you will now despise the brass goblins that you used to be to accumulate all that mixed headstamp brass.

 

[lash]

Either way, I’m going to be miles ahead of the mixed headstamp I’m using now?

I believe so.

 

[straightshooter1]

Have you used any of the Norma .223 brass and are talking from experience or just repeating what you’ve read? I’m only asking because I’ve been using Norma/RUAG brass for my .260 the past couple years and have not found the inconsistencies you are talking about.

I'm speaking from my own experience, having used them (Remington head stamped with R P and those with Norma headstamped) primarily that my .308. Neck thickness variations were substantial and the one thing that bugged me most about them was the inconsistent flash holes (often off center and/or irregular). I've got about 50 cases I did a lot of work on to tune that's stored away and shot OK, but I feel one put a lot of work into any brand of brass, they'll shoot well. I've tried about 10 different brands to see what differences there might be in what I might detect in the quality control. But then, I've only use a handful of each at a particular point in time and so my experience IS limited.

 

[straightshooter1]

Either way, I’m going to be miles ahead of the mixed headstamp I’m using now?

Definitely so.

Mixed headstamps give mixed results for a lot of different reasons.

 

[whatsupdoc]

I use bulk norma brass for my 222, it works fine with zero issues.
Using mixed headstamp brass is madness, you can always make more money you cannot buy back time you wasted dealing with mixed brass BS.

 

[filefish]

You done good. That'll be fine.

The only downside is you will now despise the brass goblins that you used to be to accumulate all that mixed headstamp brass.

Yea, I don’t know what I’m doing with all the brass I have, probably 3K mixed. .223. Either seal a meal it and deep store it way up high or sell It.


I did have a recent KB and I think the cause was som older FC factory ammo, the ammo came from a 50 cal can full of random .223. I’m going to pull all ~500 and sell it as primed brass. Primers are 10 cents each these days, so probably ask 13 cents each LOL


I also just bought 1.5K starline nickel in .9mm, .40, .45 and .357 sig. I am completely over trying to make mixed brass work well.

I already have 1 K of FC .308 all from the LAPD range once fiired, I consider that matching.

 

[filefish]

Recently tried my best at mixed range brass headstamps on 223.
You can get 2 1/2 moa but for all that effort I have started sorting.

Have a sorted short range round in work that has went to 1.24 or .98 mean radius.

Alot of work to get there.

The dozens of hours you saved buying that brass will be worth it.

Work up a virgin brass load then shoot all of them. You will have to make some adjustments to the fire formed load.

You did not make any mistake.
Imho

Good thinking. Do I need to do the same with my new handgun brass?

 

[Snuby642]

No I don't think it will show up on target.
We load them all the same and I can't shoot pistol well enough to tell.

Might show up on chrono.

Some here might differ?

 

[Ryridesmotox]

Get a brass catcher. Chasing brass around is overrated.

 

[filefish]

No I don't think it will show up on target.
We load them all the same and I can't shoot pistol well enough to tell.

Might show up on chrono.

Some here might differ?

I’m pretty good wit a pistol, I like shooting steel with my 1911‘s out past 100 yards.And with my sig in .357sig, I‘ve been known to shoot 50 cent sized groups at the back of the indoor range.

 

[filefish]

Get a brass catcher. Chasing brass around is overrated.

I got the Caldwell, and i did a quick look but came up short, I’d like to get several of the Picatinny rail adapters. I hear they do sell them separately.

 

[PAYDIRT]

I use anything I can get for free, size trim, load, then collet size the neck for 2-3 more firings. Light load of Varget and a 73 eld or 68 bthp, I then sort by head stamp just to keep them separate, I'll do a prone shot to verify then do positional practice in my trainer at 375 and 450.

 

[Snuby642]

Well @filefish you should do the test on the handgun brass.

I am no longer competent enough to do it, old eyes, ect.

The neck tension may change due to work hardening and tiny lenght changes but since it is not changing volume of the case like a shouldered cartridge.

Let us know if you test it I have not explored handgun loads that far since not a good test subject to that degree

I can still hit center mass.