I want a tikka!

Jmccracken1214

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Looking to purchase my first tikka, and from what I’m seeing, none of them take AI mags, from the factory? Even the expensive tact a1 doesn’t seem to take them, bummer.

what is the best model to get, assuming it’ll need a new stock/chassis to solve the mag issue. Wanting a 6.5 for matches

probably going to pick up one in 223 soon as well.
 
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kingzero

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The CTR and Tac A1 come with Sako TRG style mags which many (including myself) feel are better than AI mags. If you intend to run AI mags, then the Tac A1 would be pointless to get because you can't adapt it to AI mags. I would get a CTR, sell the factory stock, bottom metal and mag and buy the chassis / stock you like.
 
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86alaskan

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Same as above, try the TacA1 or CTR first, the mags they come with are pretty great. I feel like the CTR mags feed way better and smoother than the AI mags in the same rifle. But, if you must use AI mags, find the caliber you want with the right barrel and swap it into your choice of chassis or stock. the METAL AI mags work great right away, the plastic not so much. I use a Tikka T3 custom 25 Creedmoor in an MDT ACC chassis with metal accurate mags and it does just fine.
 

wade2big

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I agree with the guys that already chimed in. If you are using a Tikka, the ctr mags are superior to AI mags. They are much smoother and much easier to load.
 

Wading

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I bought my first rifle in March 2018. It was a Tikka T3 Lite in .223 on clearance for $278, and it is such a good rifle that I want to compete with it. Then in June, I bought my second rifle. It was a Tikka T3x Lite in 6.5 Creedmoor, and it shoots just as accurately with quality factory ammo. After interacting with several other shooting addicts and firing several other brands and calibers, I can say that Tikka has the best trigger and bolt action of any factory rifle in its price range that I have experienced.
 
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Mordamer

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Run any CTR mags in a dusty setting for very long and you'll know why people switch to AICS. I have seen tons of Tikka CTR mags go down from very small amounts of dust. Once the problem starts it is almost impossible to get fixed in the field. The dust causes the rounds to have enough friction against the magazine side walls that the rounds simply won't feed up. I have seen it happen enough to know that CTR mags are a no go. If you keep your rifle in very clean conditions at all times of use then they might be fine.
 

wade2big

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Run any CTR mags in a dusty setting for very long and you'll know why people switch to AICS. I have seen tons of Tikka CTR mags go down from very small amounts of dust. Once the problem starts it is almost impossible to get fixed in the field. The dust causes the rounds to have enough friction against the magazine side walls that the rounds simply won't feed up. I have seen it happen enough to know that CTR mags are a no go. If you keep your rifle in very clean conditions at all times of use then they might be fine.
That’s good to know. I’ve never heard that before with either Tikka or sako mags (virtually identical besides the boot.)
 

BikePilot

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I haven't run one in dust, but the Tikka mags seem pretty nice to me and actually pretty similar to an AI short action mag (the ones that come in an AI AT or AX308). Probably obvious, but in case not, note that
a Tikka with a chassis will take AICS mags which are not the same as the mags that AI rifles take.
 

jlficken

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The CTR and Tac A1 come with Sako TRG style mags which many (including myself) feel are better than AI mags. If you intend to run AI mags, then the Tac A1 would be pointless to get because you can't adapt it to AI mags. I would get a CTR, sell the factory stock, bottom metal and mag and buy the chassis / stock you like.
CTR/TRG mags are better than AICS mags, however, they aren't better than AI AW/AT mags in my eyes as being able to top load the magazine in my AIAT is awesome. It's the one thing I don't like about my TRG-22.
 
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jcwarrior87

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I build probably a dozen or more t3s for my self over the years this is my take.

1. Buy cheapest t3 action you can find with the right bolt face.(should be less than 450)
2. Have smith pull the barrel(I have yet to be able to get a factory barrel off with my brownells vice)
3. Buy Prefit barrel of your choice w/go gage.
4. Install barrel.
5. Drop in favorite stock chassis
6. Add bolt handle of choice if the factory doesn't work for you.
7. Add scope and scope rail
8. Shoot the rifling out of it.
9. Replace barrel
10. Go back to 8.

I currently have a 223ai and a 6.5 creed short

I have owned almost every action you can buy over the years.... tikkas are all I have left..... I just wish they make one that I could build a 300 nomad improved on...
 

308pirate

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I build probably a dozen or more t3s for my self over the years this is my take.

1. Buy cheapest t3 action you can find with the right bolt face.(should be less than 450)
2. Have smith pull the barrel(I have yet to be able to get a factory barrel off with my brownells vice)
3. Buy Prefit barrel of your choice w/go gage.
4. Install barrel.
5. Drop in favorite stock chassis
6. Add bolt handle of choice if the factory doesn't work for you.
7. Add scope and scope rail
8. Shoot the rifling out of it.
9. Replace barrel
10. Go back to 8.

I currently have a 223ai and a 6.5 creed short

I have owned almost every action you can buy over the years.... tikkas are all I have left..... I just wish they make one that I could build a 300 nomad improved on...
[/THREAD]
 
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kingzero

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CTR/TRG mags are better than AICS mags, however, they aren't better than AI AW/AT mags in my eyes as being able to top load the magazine in my AIAT is awesome. It's the one thing I don't like about my TRG-22.
True, but we are talking about Tikka actions. You can't use AW mags on one without modifying the action itself. To that point, sticking with the lower profile, double stack CTR/TRG mags is a better option......in my opinion.

To the OP......
A KRG Bravo that takes CTR mags is a great option. I held off buying a Bravo because they only offered it to accept AI mags. Once they release the version for CTR mags, I jumped all over it. I put a T3 varmint 22-250 in it and haven't looked back. The 250 feeds flawlessly through the CTR mags, even with the more pronounced taper of the case.


Screenshot_20200725-164657~2.png
 
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Jmccracken1214

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I build probably a dozen or more t3s for my self over the years this is my take.

1. Buy cheapest t3 action you can find with the right bolt face.(should be less than 450)
2. Have smith pull the barrel(I have yet to be able to get a factory barrel off with my brownells vice)
3. Buy Prefit barrel of your choice w/go gage.
4. Install barrel.
5. Drop in favorite stock chassis
6. Add bolt handle of choice if the factory doesn't work for you.
7. Add scope and scope rail
8. Shoot the rifling out of it.
9. Replace barrel
10. Go back to 8.

I currently have a 223ai and a 6.5 creed short

I have owned almost every action you can buy over the years.... tikkas are all I have left..... I just wish they make one that I could build a 300 nomad improved on...
Would you be as kind as to direct me to these $450 tikkas? Everything I’m seeing is $800+
 

UpSideDown

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I have a T3X CTR in 6.5cm in a KRG Bravo using AI mags. I love this gun. The Bravo isn’t the best chassis but it’s good, and this gun shoots better than it should. Last time we were out my group to confirm zero was one clean hole at 100yds, not what I expected.

Put a YoDave trigger spring in it and enjoy the wonderous factory trigger.

The factory stock would be good for hunting, otherwise I’d throw a chassis under it.
 

TheLimey

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Looking to purchase my first tikka, and from what I’m seeing, none of them take AI mags, from the factory? Even the expensive tact a1 doesn’t seem to take them, bummer.

what is the best model to get, assuming it’ll need a new stock/chassis to solve the mag issue. Wanting a 6.5 for matches

probably going to pick up one in 223 soon as well.
I have a Tikka Tac A1 in 6.5 Cr. For what it's worth the stock tikka mags are great. I got 2 with the gun and sent off for a free third one from Beretta. It's my first rifle. When I was shopping for the Tikka I thought I'd get the CTR until I held one ... immediately knew I didn't like it. Front heavy with that synthetic stock. Kinda like a neck-heavy guitar. I have ZERO regrets about buying the Tac A1. I haven't shot any matches with the rifle yet ..but I will soon. I thought it was heavy for that kinda of thing (mine's about 15lbs loaded with scope and bipod) but when I looked into it a lot of guys are shooting rifles that heavy so I'll just STFU :)
 

drew_235

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Would you be as kind as to direct me to these $450 tikkas? Everything I’m seeing is $800+
I have not see any for $450 since March, but the T3x Lite, blued, 6.5CM is around $550 if you look around. For a while, I was staring at the $450 price on the same 6.5CM and thinking to myself, "I have a 3 year old and a 10 month old...they will need this rifle eventually," but I never hit the button to submit the order.
 

Jmccracken1214

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I have not see any for $450 since March, but the T3x Lite, blued, 6.5CM is around $550 if you look around. For a while, I was staring at the $450 price on the same 6.5CM and thinking to myself, "I have a 3 year old and a 10 month old...they will need this rifle eventually," but I never hit the button to submit the order.
The more I look at them, and factor in the cost of a chassis, I may just stick with 6.5 and buy the tac a1
 

6brshooter

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I haven't run one in dust, but the Tikka mags seem pretty nice to me and actually pretty similar to an AI short action mag (the ones that come in an AI AT or AX308). Probably obvious, but in case not, note that
a Tikka with a chassis will take AICS mags which are not the same as the mags that AI rifles take.
My ai ae's disagree, lol
 

Harman117

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Usually you can get a Tac A1 for $1500ish, but I'm not sure if that's still the case given the current climate. (I usually go to grabagun.com and request a quote or Whittaker guns and do the same thing for Tikkas)

Removing a barrel from a Tikka wasn't hard for me, I bought a SS T3X Lite before the price jump and sold the barrel/stock off of it. Ended up at $430 for the action and trigger.

Here's what it looks like as of now.
IMG_20200721_210911.jpg
 
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drew_235

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Usually you can get a Tac A1 for $1500ish, but I'm not sure if that's still the case given the current climate. (I usually go to grabagun.com and request a quote or Whittaker guns and do the same thing for Tikkas)

Removing a barrel from a Tikka wasn't hard for me, I bought a SS T3X Lite before the price jump and sold the barrel/stock off of it. Ended up at $430 for the action and trigger.

Here's what it looks like as of now.
View attachment 7389446
Is there much of a market for the take off barrels? I have had my eyes on a stainless .300 wsm that I'd like to turn into a 6.5 PRC, but if the barrels are only worth $20, it's a hard sell to essentially throw it away.
 

Harman117

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Sold mine on eBay for $150. I had bought a 6.5 Creedmoor donor rifle specifically for selling based on popularity for the round. Mine too was stainless.
 
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wade2big

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Sold mine on eBay for $150. I had bought a 6.5 Creedmoor donor rifle specifically for selling based on popularity for the round. Mine too was stainless.
You got lucky. Good for you. Ctr barrels don’t fetch that much usually $100-120. The lite barrels in a desirable caliber (6.5 or .308) you may get $75. A 300wm or 300wsm you would be lucky to get $50.
 

Harman117

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Screenshot_20200802-184249.png

I try to use eBay first when selling stuff like this, it seems to reach a wider audience VS selling to people that actually know what they're worth.
 

drew_235

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Sold mine on eBay for $150. I had bought a 6.5 Creedmoor donor rifle specifically for selling based on popularity for the round. Mine too was stainless.
I've heard horror stories about getting these factory barrels off the receiver. Did you have any trouble? Which vise and wrench did you use?
 

reubenski

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I took mine off with a Brownell wrench. You can't pull on it. You have to smack it with a small sledge.

I also bought two Tikka T3's for $400 and $450 on this site. Just have to be ready to buy when the deal comes.
 

Harman117

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Brownells barrel vise with aluminum #6 inserts.
Barrel protected with several layers of drywall joint tape. Torqued the vise down HARD on barrel.

I used a 31mm open-end wrench, with cut up beer cans as shims/protection for the action. (Got the idea from member "Crang" just be sure to use enough that the fit is tight) Slipped a 2ft cheater over the wrench. Then used a deadblow hammer while applying some pressure in the direction the action would spin.

Straight forward and worked well.
 

drew_235

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Brownells barrel vise with aluminum #6 inserts.
Barrel protected with several layers of drywall joint tape. Torqued the vise down HARD on barrel.

I used a 31mm open-end wrench, with cut up beer cans as shims/protection for the action. (Got the idea from member "Crang" just be sure to use enough that the fit is tight) Slipped a 2ft cheater over the wrench. Then used a deadblow hammer while applying some pressure in the direction the action would spin.

Straight forward and worked well.
2 quick questions:
Drywall joint tape - the mesh stuff or the paper?
31mm wrench with shims? How many slices of beer can did it take? If you have to add shims, wouldn't it be better to just use an adjustable wrench? I realize actions wrenches are ~$100, but a shimmed 31mm wrench seems like a big step to save a few dollars. Maybe I'm not clearly picturing what you're describing.
 

Jmccracken1214

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Buy a T3 Varmint from eurooptic in 6.5CM then get a KRG chassis of your choice.... you’ll have $1500-ish into the rifle you want without smith work.
The varmint doesn’t have a threaded barrel, not the ones they have anyways and they are $800+. By the time you buy any chassis besides the bravo, I’ll be more in it than the tac
 

drew_235

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The varmint doesn’t have a threaded barrel, not the ones they have anyways and they are $800+. By the time you buy any chassis besides the bravo, I’ll be more in it than the tac
Have you ruled out a 24" CTR with a chassis? That will get you your 24" heavy threaded barrel.
 

Fig

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The CTR and Tac A1 come with Sako TRG style mags which many (including myself) feel are better than AI mags. If you intend to run AI mags, then the Tac A1 would be pointless to get because you can't adapt it to AI mags. I would get a CTR, sell the factory stock, bottom metal and mag and buy the chassis / stock you like.
 

drew_235

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$900 is an ok price for the CTR in today's market. The varmint can be had for ~$730 if you are willing to buy it from a different online retailer or $750 from GrabaGun.com, which has gotten a ton of my business.
 

Fig

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Run any CTR mags in a dusty setting for very long and you'll know why people switch to AICS. I have seen tons of Tikka CTR mags go down from very small amounts of dust. Once the problem starts it is almost impossible to get fixed in the field. The dust causes the rounds to have enough friction against the magazine side walls that the rounds simply won't feed up. I have seen it happen enough to know that CTR mags are a no go. If you keep your rifle in very clean conditions at all times of use then they might be fine.

Should be in every field bag. I’ve had to use half a bottle in heavy dust, but it will flush out and action or a mag no matter how dusty it gets, and you can shoot a minute later.
 
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Fig

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I have a bunch of Sacos, and hunt with them all the time. I want a Tikka too, but I don’t kid myself. My $200 Savage .22 now has about $2,200 in it.

If it’s a hunting rifle and you’re happy with it stock maybe you can get away with $1500 all in. I, on the other hand, would be at a custom gun before I could blink. I know this.
 

Harman117

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2 quick questions:
Drywall joint tape - the mesh stuff or the paper?
31mm wrench with shims? How many slices of beer can did it take? If you have to add shims, wouldn't it be better to just use an adjustable wrench? I realize actions wrenches are ~$100, but a shimmed 31mm wrench seems like a big step to save a few dollars. Maybe I'm not clearly picturing what you're describing.
1) The paper stuff

2) I used two different slices of can around the action before putting the wrench over it. It is kind of goofy, but I had purchased an internal action wrench (most of them are not designed for the amount of torque required to remove a factory barrel) so I didn't want to purchase an additional $100 external wrench. Plus I had access to a 31mm wrench. So it all worked out for me. You can pm me if you have more questions, and I can go into in more detail if you'd like.
 

Harman117

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I have a bunch of Sacos, and hunt with them all the time. I want a Tikka too, but I don’t kid myself. My $200 Savage .22 now has about $2,200 in it.

If it’s a hunting rifle and you’re happy with it stock maybe you can get away with $1500 all in. I, on the other hand, would be at a custom gun before I could blink. I know this.
You're a mad man!
 

HowiePb82

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I would go with CTR and keep or toss the stock... this is CTR with KRG Whiskey 3 chassis. Whether you stick with Tikka mag or AI both are good. From my experience you can find AI or AI style mags cheaper though so that may be consideration. I will say Tikkas shoot a little slower so depending upon application you might want to run 24” vs 20” just food for thought.
 

kingzero

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And? It's really not a big deal. My 6.5 needs 8.6 mils to 1000 yards. Even a Vortex PST gen II has 11 mils of elevation from center. 11 mils gets my rifle to 1200 yards. Pick a better scope with a 34mm tube and you get more. Bitching over a $60 rail in this hobby is a little ridiculous.
 

Jmccracken1214

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And? It's really not a big deal. My 6.5 needs 8.6 mils to 1000 yards. Even a Vortex PST gen II has 11 mils of elevation from center. 11 mils gets my rifle to 1200 yards. Pick a better scope with a 34mm tube and you get more. Bitching over a $60 rail in this hobby is a little ridiculous.
I’ve got a XTR3 to go on it, but for a “long Range” rifle that’s in that price range not to have one on it, is Ridiculous. I think almost every other company will have one on a rifle this expensive.