Gunsmithing I want to build a spray booth...

[jonaddis84]

Want to get some thoughts/ideas from guys that know more than me about this. I just want to note, I dont do this for a living, so Im not looking to spend beau-cup bucks on the setup, but I also dont want to have to do it twice.

Heres my setup...

My shop right now is a 30x20' area in the middle of the 30x60 building pictured. The building is split into three equal sections, the left side has an insulated ceiling, and partially insulated walls, I just need to finish it up. Im running out of room in the center section, as its pulling double or triple duty having a very large reloading bench, machine tools, 3 safes, and a desk. I want to add a big double door between the left and center sections and start heating the left.

Now, I want to move all my cerakote related stuff over to the left bay, and build a spray booth in there as well. I thought about the rubbermaid shed idea from Chad, but I may as well frame it as I dont really have the ceilings/doors to have it easily roll in and out.

My issue is this, I want to suck out a lot of air from the spray booth and just dump it outside (I know, illegal, wah wah wah). The problem is, that air has to be replaced by an equal amount coming back into the room. No big deal during the summer when its warm, although I wouldnt mind drying the air out maybe?? But come winter time here in Ohio, Im going to have to heat that air before it gets to the booth.

Two options, allow the air to be replenished into the booth via the shop outside of it. Have a vent near my heater that will open when I turn on the spray booth fans to allow outside air to be sucked in, and hopefully heated by the propane ceiling mounted garage heater.

Option two, maybe they make an inline heater for ductwork that will heat the appropriate CFM of air coming back into the booth? Pipe the air from a dry location outside, through the PROPANE or electric heater, then into the booth.

Final question is, updraft or downdraft? Pros/cons? Im thinking I will build the floor up in the air on 2x6 or 2x8s and be able to have air flow in or out of the floor depending which style I decide on.

Oh, thoughts on lighting for inside it?

Thanks!

 

[fastrider777]

Want to get some thoughts/ideas from guys that know more than me about this. I just want to note, I dont do this for a living, so Im not looking to spend beau-cup bucks on the setup, but I also dont want to have to do it twice.

Heres my setup...

My shop right now is a 30x20' area in the middle of the 30x60 building pictured. The building is split into three equal sections, the left side has an insulated ceiling, and partially insulated walls, I just need to finish it up. Im running out of room in the center section, as its pulling double or triple duty having a very large reloading bench, machine tools, 3 safes, and a desk. I want to add a big double door between the left and center sections and start heating the left.

Now, I want to move all my cerakote related stuff over to the left bay, and build a spray booth in there as well. I thought about the rubbermaid shed idea from Chad, but I may as well frame it as I dont really have the ceilings/doors to have it easily roll in and out.

My issue is this, I want to suck out a lot of air from the spray booth and just dump it outside (I know, illegal, wah wah wah). The problem is, that air has to be replaced by an equal amount coming back into the room. No big deal during the summer when its warm, although I wouldnt mind drying the air out maybe?? But come winter time here in Ohio, Im going to have to heat that air before it gets to the booth.

Two options, allow the air to be replenished into the booth via the shop outside of it. Have a vent near my heater that will open when I turn on the spray booth fans to allow outside air to be sucked in, and hopefully heated by the propane ceiling mounted garage heater.

Option two, maybe they make an inline heater for ductwork that will heat the appropriate CFM of air coming back into the booth? Pipe the air from a dry location outside, through the PROPANE or electric heater, then into the booth.

Final question is, updraft or downdraft? Pros/cons? Im thinking I will build the floor up in the air on 2x6 or 2x8s and be able to have air flow in or out of the floor depending which style I decide on.

Oh, thoughts on lighting for inside it?

Thanks!

Downdraft for sure.

There are plenty of "air exchange systems" coming on to the market.

I'm a general superintendent for a custom home builder in California.

One of the dumbest codes we have to overcome is providing an air exchange in the new houses we build.

They actually let you get away with a duct out, and a duct in with fresh air. Which makes no sense to me after you just spent thousands on a super efficient HVAC system, thousands on dual pane windows and money on insulating the building.

The claim is that people are getting sick from off-gas and the house being too tight.

There are systems out there that work "in line" of a ducting system that will heat the incoming outside air in the winter and cool it in the summer.

You just need to know what kind of volume you want to turn over. But it is on the expensive side, I won't lie.

Also, paint booths are always a little sketchy with fumes. I know you were talking about just dumping the waste air, but you should still consider (outside of air quality) the results of flammable vapors and sparks/electrical motors/flames/heaters and the like.

Don't want to sound like Capt. Obvious....

Anyway, there are plenty of systems out there, you don't need to reinvent the wheel. You just need to know how much air you are trying to move and replace.

 

[USMC SgtMaj]

I'd check with local body shops, they upgrade every so often and you can pick them up pretty cheap. I picked up a used booth, side draft with filters, lights and fans for 1200.00. It's a bit of a PITA to haul, assemble and seal but for the price who cares, they are out there and most guys just want them gone. I'd say you don't need a downdraft for your application, yes, they are nice but not worth it unless you're planning on opening up a body shop.

 

[TravelingMan]

Check out this option... Look up information on indoor grow equipment.. They have all types of carbon filters to add to the duct work as well as inline fans... I bet you can save a lot of money going this route with your equipment.. Hope I helped you save a little...

 

[TravelingMan]

Oh, they even have grow tents, that could be set up as a paint booth / paint tent.... I bet they have some type of inline heater as well... Look at Atlantis Hydroponics.com or other growing sites. You could put what you save toward your shooting...

 

[TravelingMan]

It will probably save you a lot, compared to paint specific type stuff and accomplish, plus do the same job...

Want to get some thoughts/ideas from guys that know more than me about this. I just want to note, I dont do this for a living, so Im not looking to spend beau-cup bucks on the setup, but I also dont want to have to do it twice.

Heres my setup...

My shop right now is a 30x20' area in the middle of the 30x60 building pictured. The building is split into three equal sections, the left side has an insulated ceiling, and partially insulated walls, I just need to finish it up. Im running out of room in the center section, as its pulling double or triple duty having a very large reloading bench, machine tools, 3 safes, and a desk. I want to add a big double door between the left and center sections and start heating the left.

Now, I want to move all my cerakote related stuff over to the left bay, and build a spray booth in there as well. I thought about the rubbermaid shed idea from Chad, but I may as well frame it as I dont really have the ceilings/doors to have it easily roll in and out.

My issue is this, I want to suck out a lot of air from the spray booth and just dump it outside (I know, illegal, wah wah wah). The problem is, that air has to be replaced by an equal amount coming back into the room. No big deal during the summer when its warm, although I wouldnt mind drying the air out maybe?? But come winter time here in Ohio, Im going to have to heat that air before it gets to the booth.

Two options, allow the air to be replenished into the booth via the shop outside of it. Have a vent near my heater that will open when I turn on the spray booth fans to allow outside air to be sucked in, and hopefully heated by the propane ceiling mounted garage heater.

Option two, maybe they make an inline heater for ductwork that will heat the appropriate CFM of air coming back into the booth? Pipe the air from a dry location outside, through the PROPANE or electric heater, then into the booth.

Final question is, updraft or downdraft? Pros/cons? Im thinking I will build the floor up in the air on 2x6 or 2x8s and be able to have air flow in or out of the floor depending which style I decide on.

Oh, thoughts on lighting for inside it?

Thanks!

 

[LRI]

We took a 10x 10 shed. Mounted it on a steel frame with casters. Pair of fans, explosion proof lights, and wala. Very efficient booth that can be moved on demand. Filters over the fans, filters on the vents.

$1200 total investment.


everything from routine c - koto and camo to high end hand rubbed auto paint for tgt stocks.

no dirt!

 

[TravelingMan]

Not to take the thread from the OP, but I'm going to build a oven, with oven eyes inside of a medal, 6foot tall x 3foot deep x 4.5 foot wide locker.. Will in stale a thermostat and stuff also.. Any advice on insulation needed, I heard sheet rock will work on the outside....

 

[LRI]

If you troll the auctions for commercial food equipment you can find holding ovens for cheap. I bought one for 600 sheckels. Big enough to stand in almost. 200 bucks of new elements/wire/controls from amazon had me fitted up with an oven big enough for almost 20 barreled actions at a time.

C.

 

[jonaddis84]

We took a 10x 10 shed. Mounted it on a steel frame with casters. Pair of fans, explosion proof lights, and wala. Very efficient booth that can be moved on demand. Filters over the fans, filters on the vents.

$1200 total investment.


everything from routine c - koto and camo to high end hand rubbed auto paint for tgt stocks.

no dirt!

Do you only use this outside?

 

[LRI]

Nope. Rolls right through our bay door onto the apron in the summer. Winter we open the bay door and call it good. I have 14' bay doors so this may not work with a std garage door if your wanting it in/out.

 

[jonaddis84]

My concern is that if I use your design, but just in a framed in room inside the shop, that even filtered the air does not smell great. Therefore if I dont want to have to open the door in the winter, I will need to exhaust the air outside. So my biggest concern is just balancing the air in the shop and keeping everything heated still.

Im only working with 9ft ceilings and 8ft standard garage doors.

 

[LRI]

Understand. If your painting in your house, your house will smell like paint. Just how it works. Filters are for dirt.

 

[Andy Warhog]

If you're just doing cerakote or small stuff and not fogging your booth up you don't really need the vent on the whole time. Keep your respirator on and kick the vent on while the parts are flashing and clean your gun. By the time you have everything broke down the fumes should be evacuated. As far as creating negative pressure, if it's not running constantly the air gaps you have around your openings should be enough to replenish without any worries or just raise your overhead an inch if you're really worried. Side draft works fine. My .02

 

[ugsly]

I framed in a 5'x'5 room in the garage and put a simple door for a bedroom on it to come and go. I used 2 attic fans on a rheostat knob incase I needed to slow them down. Put 3 T5HO lights in the booth (they put out a lot of heat, they will heat the booth in the winter) Framed in a place to put filters infront fo the fan and the same on the back wall of the booth to suck air in. It has worked really well for the past couple years. The garage stays at 70-74 during the winter. I think all together it ran me around $500 to build.

Casey

 

[jonaddis84]

I framed in a 5'x'5 room in the garage and put a simple door for a bedroom on it to come and go. I used 2 attic fans on a rheostat knob incase I needed to slow them down. Put 3 T5HO lights in the booth (they put out a lot of heat, they will heat the booth in the winter) Framed in a place to put filters infront fo the fan and the same on the back wall of the booth to suck air in. It has worked really well for the past couple years. The garage stays at 70-74 during the winter. I think all together it ran me around $500 to build.

Casey

Where do you exhaust the air to? Just into the shop or outside? Or into the attic?

 

[ugsly]

Outside, I put up a couple louvered vents on the outside fo the house so you wouldnt really know what it was. I was really suprised how much overspray the filters caught. I can walk outside and from time to time I take a wet rags and wipe them off. Every month I also spray and wipe the whole booth down to help keep crap from sticking to the walls and coming off when Im spraying.

Casey

 

[Twisted300Win MAG]

I work in the collision business and have set up more then a few shops. I've worked in $100,000+ downdrafts down to makeshift setups in garages. If you want pm me your contact info and I'll help anyway I can.
Donald