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Suppressors I was panicking! I used to have my thunderbeast stuck...

Was panicking...I used to have my thunderbeast stuck...

Well I finally got it shipped out and it's due for arrival today. I have a request in with zak to chronicle this debacle with photographs and commentary so hopefully it will be a learning experience for more than just me. We will see what happens!
 
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That's why when my smith asked for the can to cut the threads I just said to cut the threads to the class 3 specs posted to thunder beasts site. You don't need a super tight fit, just go to the spec and stuff will fit like it is supposed to if you buy quality suppressor and brakes.
 
Even with my barrel cut to specs it is still giving some issues. I use a bunch of anti seize even. I don't think the two metals like each other. My barrel is a stainless steel barrel
 
We were able to get it off without having to cut anything off.

Report from our foreman,
Barrel threads were very gritty with some kind of fibers attached.
DIMG_1096.jpg


Fibers are grittiness inside can
DIMG_1099.jpg


Can threads checked fine with go/no go
DIMG_1100.jpg


Barrel threads didn't gauge. That's where the GO stopped:
DIMG_1103.jpg


First thread was very sharp and thin. It would tear a paper towel if you rubbed it over
DIMG_1105.jpg


Barrel threads were 0.0021" over max spec with a pitch diameter of 0.600. Max spec is 0.5979.
DIMG_1104.jpg


I chased the threads with a die to a pitch diameter of 0.596 then checked with the go/no-go and put a chamfer on the first threads.
 
There ya have it folks. If that ain't customer service, well your an asshole. I can't tell you how happy I am with zak and everyone at thunderbeast who had a hand in fixing this. The thing just got there today and here's the update. I have no idea what the gritty fibers are from. Did you guys just turn it off I'm assuming, or was there some voodoo involved?
 
Sweet. Ill be waiting. Just got home from working an outrage and I'll be off tomorrow shooting, so I look forward to the phone call. Thanks again!
 
Continued...

Finished product after relieving and recutting the shoulder and chamfering the first sharp thread:
DIMG_1107.jpg



Can goes on and off with no problems:
DIMG_1108.jpg



Barrel to can interface is now correct. Notice where it was shouldering before (the inner ring only). Now is proceeds correctly over the root cut and shoulders solidly to the barrel shoulder.
DIMG_1109.jpg


You're actually pretty lucky you didn't get a baffle strike, if you had shot this before.
 
Thank you very much for posting the particulars zak. Believe me, I fully understand how lucky I am here. While it was only a few times, it was shot. Could have been a whole lot worse here.
 
Glad the issue has been resolved smoothly, not surprised the barrel threads / shoulder were not correct since you guys gauge the cans before they leave. Still, it is pretty awesome that Zak took the time to do this.
 
I'm glad he took the time to have the pictures taken and post them with some information on it all.

Again, I feel like if I've said it once I have said it ten times but it bares repeating. I in no way expected, claimed or in any way meant to insinuate that the can or thunderbeast were at fault here. I just want to be clear about this. I knew it was the barrel, just not sure why it went on then off and back on again fine before it wouldn't come back off.
 
Rename the Thread?

Panicking; Shitty Barrel Threads Stuck to my Thunder Beast Can!
 
Rename the Thread to

Tell your buddys to get their own shit and NO YOU CANT SHOOT MINE UNLESS YOU HAVE A $1000 deposit.LOL
 
Wow... great service from Zak and crew! Not that I expected anything less, but working in a customer service role myself, it's great to see folks step up and do what needs to be done to take care of the customer.
 
Christ people, the title is changed. Everything is good to go and as soon as the FDE paint dries it will be on it's way back.
 
We were able to get it off without having to cut anything off.

Report from our foreman,

I've been following this thread ( no pun intended ) with great interest. I just sold my lathe and mill, partly because I'm moving, and partly because I was beginning to believe that the lathe may be a weak link in my shop, chiefly, leadscrew precision.

The gunsmith I learned from was adamant about full profile indexable thread tooling, both internal and external. His reason was obvious; full profile cutters control every aspect of the thread being cut: major and minor diameters, root and apex radius, which can't all be managed with a single point tool, and in fact may cut poor threads despite good technique depending on how the tool was ground. Add to that different tooling used by different smiths and manufacturers, leadscrew tolerances, and tool wear, gunsmith skill, and its no wonder this sort of thing happens. In short, there is a tolerance issue in gunsmithing that can only be addressed by using gauges to verify the work done. Am I right or am I wrong?


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