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Is clean brass more accurate then dirty brass?

What micron size wrere you using? Some is supposed to be too fine and sticky, 0.5 is just right, and others are too coarse.

I ordered and just tried some 70nm HBN. Here is the comparison between the current (should I say previous now?) leader (Moly), and the new 70nm HBN.

Moly:

1689964230363.png


70nm HBN
1689964188709.png


Pretty close, but HBN is roughly equal or tighter all the way through the seating process.

Moly 70nm HBN
End of First "Shelf" ~6 lb ~7 lb
Peak ~9.5 lb ~7 lb
Terminal ~13 lb ~7 lb
 
I’m just here to see if I still need to spit shine my brass to perfection?

That depends.

Yes, if you're vain and want to get points on the self gratifying FB groups. Don't forget to post your best cherry picked 3 shot Chrono reading.

No if you actually just care about performance.
 
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nope just like old brass is just as good as new brass my brass with 11 reloading shoots just the same / as good as my new brass .
but my inner mag pie says make my brass shiny , sparkly .
 
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nope just like old brass is just as good as new brass my brass with 11 reloadings shoots just the same / as good as my new brass .
My 5x fired Hornady 6 arc brass is already dropping primers out of 20% of them. Probably loaded some of them too hot in development stage’s honestly. Still though, damn. I get approx 10 from Hornady 6.5 PRC loads.
 
I ordered and just tried some 70nm HBN. Here is the comparison between the current (should I say previous now?) leader (Moly), and the new 70nm HBN.

Moly:

View attachment 8187659

70nm HBN
View attachment 8187657

Pretty close, but HBN is roughly equal or tighter all the way through the seating process.

Moly 70nm HBN
End of First "Shelf" ~6 lb ~7 lb
Peak ~9.5 lb ~7 lb
Terminal ~13 lb ~7 lb

everybody mastrubating on this meaningless AMP curves nowadays? do you even know what they mean?

group size is not a metric anymore?

do you guys even shoot?
 
everybody mastrubating on this meaningless AMP curves nowadays? do you even know what they mean?

group size is not a metric anymore?

do you guys even shoot?
I was hoping that you’d pop in with another of your meaningless demeaning comments to attempt to show your imagined superiority.

Thank you for your contribution to the thread. 👍🏻🙄
 
everybody mastrubating on this meaningless AMP curves nowadays? do you even know what they mean?

group size is not a metric anymore?

do you guys even shoot?

Wow - another one for the ignore list.

But to answer your completely inane questions:

- Yes, I care about group size, but it's not the only thing I care about.
- Yes, I shoot
- Obviously you don't shoot ELR - if you did, you'd know that in ELR, SDs matter. I've proven that seating force consistency impacts SDs.

Now - ignore button hit - and... GFY.
 
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I’m just here to see if I still need to spit shine my brass to perfection?

Usually, my brass looks pretty darned bad. Last week I cleaned a bunch of brass in the ultrasonic and didn't have time to dry it that night. It tarnished so bad that I just couldn't take looking at it, so it got nice and shiny in my vibratory tumbler. Other than those types of things, shiny doesn't matter.
 
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everybody mastrubating on this meaningless AMP curves nowadays? do you even know what they mean?

group size is not a metric anymore?

do you guys even shoot?
Are all those goats trip-trapping across the bridge making you grumpy?

Mike
 
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Yeah you want to make sure your brass is spotless before you put it in your sizing. Die. No contaminants on it and typical tumbling medium leaves. Lots of contaminants on the outer case as well as it's electrostatic charge. All during the tumbling medium portion of cleaning your cases. After out of the tumbling medium l suggest an ammonia-based cleaning solution in an ultrasonic bath barring that just a good soaking ammonia. I use Mr clean as it leaves the shell casing bright and shiny. I then clean my sizing die thoroughly as if I were cleaning a gun barrel. And then run grease everything up and then run it through the sizing die. There's a reason why caselube cost so much. It's because they're formulas leave no residue. And post sizing and decapping their practically ready to reload after trimming. Using commercial cleaners that is. Irregardless after priming charging and seating I always give them one more bath. A spray more than a bathroom really. On clean. Terry cloth and you'll see the color that Terry cloth turn black even after all that effort. Long story short, they get stuck in your chamber because you're chamber is filthy. Especially once the barrel heats up and you try to extract the brass, it'll stick. It'll either bend your firing pin or not your firing pin but your firing pin retaining pin. Or break your extractor. Keep that chamber clean.
"Irregardless" is not a word! Heathen!
 
What do ya mean clean? Shiny bright ?Sometimes...I do not always clean brass fired in my gun...used to neck size only until bolt resistance, then bump the shoulder back. Buff the neck carbon off with a Scothbrite fine grey wheel, skip cleaning anything, necksize load, ..or FL size roll cases in towels with a little 91% alcohol, to clean off spray lube, then finish loading, single stage or Dillion ...clean cases have never shown more accuracy. Example ran LC rejected pull down with bullet sealent speckled all around the case, buffed the neck, neck sized only run through the Dillion with old $20 748 and 15 cent bullets to fire these crap primed cases...AR 10 first 5 shots .3" group 2nd 5 shot group .4" at one hundred. The AR 10 liked this cheap 130 gr Varmint bullet, ridiculously long jump, and dirty cases did not matter.