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Is there a system to help identify an appropriate projectile weight for tiny groups on paper at 100-300 yards?

want2learn

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Minuteman
Sep 7, 2013
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i'm beginning to appreciate the importance of BC, projectile weight, rifle twist, velocity, quality/consistency (among many other factors) in selecting a long range target projectile. It seems that for long range steel consistent higher velocity and often heavier projectiles are selected to hit steel.

My better half has recently expressed a hint of interest in learning to shoot rifle.....i'm quite certain that would entail shooting at our local range 100 - 300 yards on paper with the purpose of effecting tiny little groups. More of a bench rest type of application albeit likely shot prone.

I need to purchase some projectiles for this specific purpose (accuracy on paper at intermediate distances). Hoping not to have to purchase 4 different boxes of 100 projectiles of varied weights if there is a more efficient methodology.

Is there a system to help identify an appropriate projectile weight? This Tikka M595 rifle has a brand new 27 inch barrel chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor with a 1:8 twist and a factory muzzle brake.

thank you
 
If there were one projectile that would outshine the others in all rifles, it would be common knowledge. In actual BR competition, where almost everyone is shooting 6 PPC at 1-300 yards, they shoot a flat base 68-70 gr bullet with minimal twist. Since you have a 6.5 with a fast twist, along a general lack of flat based BR bullets in 6.5, your only real answer is to shoot what most shoot here out of their long range 6.5’s. Just pick one. If it meets accuracy requirements, run with it.
 
start by ensuring your options only include types and weights that are spin stable for your rifle/barrel?

 
I’m not a bench rest guy but a local guy to me does it. It seemed that while I liked the long, high bc, heavier, boat tail bullets for long range shooting...he preferred the lighter, faster, flat base bullets for bench rest 300 yds and under.
 
You should be asking for the most easy to tune forgiving bullet for your rifle, not for a particular bullet weight.
 
the LBC, it's interesting. i ran the Berger ballistics calculator and it does seem at least from a stability perspective that the lower weight projectiles seem particularly stable.

i guess the question is how does this translate to accuracy?

918v.....that sounds like a perfect question but honestly....i'm not sure how to research that information? Id sure appreciate any guidance.
 
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For a new shooter if you have a 223 that would be a great place to bang away at 100-300 on a regular basis. Load some 50-55 gr bullets in a 1:9 twist and let them have at it.

If you wanted to really concentrate on the BR game then a 6BR or something similar would be the ticket.

That 6.5 with the 1:8 will serve better at longer ranges with the 140+ bullets than it would playing a paper puncher up close.

Not that it can’t do it. But that may be a better platform to move up to for further ranges once the basics are down inside 300
 
I have read here on the hide many times that a fb bullet will be good till past 300 when drag starts taking more effect.

I was told that was the bullet of choice for bench rest to 300yd .

Working on some now on purpose fb and tangent ogive .
 
Pull off the factory barrel

get a cut rifled barrel from your favorite make

Chamber in 6PPC or 6BR or one of its variants


Forgot the important one...

learn how to reload, which is whole other rabbit hole
 
thanks.... i just purchased that barrel and while it might not be the most appropriate choice for 2 different applications it's what we have.... just trying to optimize what we already own.

(i do appreciate that this particular recent purchase is better suited for longer range steel shooting).

i am reloading...trying to do it well and properly...... hence the novice questions
 
if you can shoot , you should almost be able to use any round to hit a target from 100 - 300 yards and get small groups but within 100 -600 yards I saw no real difference between the 140 factory hornady ammo and hand loaded 140 berger or the 142 smk ammo the hand loads had far better sd's numbers but I was not able to make any smaller group than what i did . even the 130 prime was equal group size stretch that out further and I am sure the sd's would matter more I just did not see any huge difference 600 and under . i am set up with a 26'' barrel 1/8 twist and if I do my part the rounds will hit 1/4 moa at 100 yards or what ever it is 5 shots under a dime size any misses are my failures to do something not the ammo or the gun . To me it all came down to price at the time 64 cents for the hornady or 1.16 per round at that time for the prime the hand loads I can only wish for more as I can't yet reload my own . Good luck to you on finding the ammo that you and your gun like the best . I would totally suggest trying the 130 prime if you are looking for a factory ammo they seem to hold there sd's nice and low even if there price is a little more compared to the hornady which for me have started to jump all over the place in the same box from 18.'s to 29s .
Just to point out https://www.laxammo.com/ had the 6.5 creedmoor 140 gr hornady 200 round box for 179. + shipping if that interests you .
 
the LBC, it's interesting. i ran the Berger ballistics calculator and it does seem at least from a stability perspective that the lower weight projectiles seem particularly stable.

i guess the question is how does this translate to accuracy?

918v.....that sounds like a perfect question but honestly....i'm not sure how to research that information? Id sure appreciate any guidance.

right, lighter bullets are easier to spin, but heavier bullets carry longer and are less affected by wind (especially at longer distances).
i think the tool is used mostly for people trying to push as far as possible, rather than finding the right bullet for short or intermediate distances.
like somebody suggested, 300 yds is not far, so a lighter bullet with a high bc will probably shoot flatter and have less recoil.
 
thanks...that helps.
grateful for all the responses.

i would have imagined that there would be some sort of formula for predicting projectile accuracy in a very controlled setting (vacuum?).
 
If you are just punching holes in paper at short range, the SMK 142s are a great all around bullet. Kinda overkill at that range. But it'll 100% do the job.

I've also experimented with some 123s and had some decent success but I need to do more with those.
 
the LBC, it's interesting. i ran the Berger ballistics calculator and it does seem at least from a stability perspective that the lower weight projectiles seem particularly stable.

i guess the question is how does this translate to accuracy?

918v.....that sounds like a perfect question but honestly....i'm not sure how to research that information? Id sure appreciate any guidance.

So start by asking the question “What is the easiest to tune, most forgiving bullet for a 1-8” 6.5 Creedmoor?”

I would venture to say it is something with a tangent ogjive, about 140grs in weight, and made by one of the big 3 in reloading. The reason these bullets aren’t more popular is because people tend to buy and load for extreme possibilities, hence very high BC at a very high velocity, something these old designs don’t look good for.

But you want to shoot at a moderate distance so who cares about BC or speed. Look at the 140SMK, 139 Scenar, Berger 140 LRBT or 140 Nosler Custom Competition. Check out this article as well as others on his page:


C31CAF9E-F99D-4BF6-BD74-EA9E5D4EEA70.png
 
Re: 142SMK

I started reloading for my 6.5CM using this bullet and found it picky and finicky. Yes it has a tangent ogjive but it is a sleek tangent ogjive, not blunt like your typical SMK (140) and therefore less jump happy.

Berger hybrid is far better.