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Is this a good buy for the price???

Knawx

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 28, 2014
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Above is the setup in question. I have spoken with the owner and he says he can sell the package for $2250.00 (minus the pelican case).

He mentioned the rifle has had about 320 rounds down the barrel, 100 of which were special barrel break in rounds (which I know nothing about).

So, would you say this is a worthy package for the cost? Or am I better off using the money to build my own setup? Just to clarify, I planned on buying a Remington 700 .308, dropping it into a KRG Whiskey 3 chassis and mounting a Vortex scope on it.


Here are the specs:

- Remington tuned 700 Police model chambered in .308 Winchester w/Kreiger 26 inch, 1:12 right-hand twist barrel

- Trijicon Accupoint 5 – 20 x 50mm Mil-Dot MOA rifescope

- Timney 2 pound custom trigger

- Bell and Carlson Medalist Stock with full aluminum bedding block & custom cerakoate finish

- Badger Ordnance Tactical Bolt

- Badger Ordnance Angle Cosine Indicator

- CDI Precision Trigger Guard/Bottom Metal

- Accuracy International (1) 5-round and (1) 10-round magazine

- Brand new Leupold Mark 4 Scope Rings

- Nightforce Picatinny Scope Rail

- Harris Bipod

- Mamba Sling
 
I would Ditch the Scope and Keep the Case and make another deal with him. I don't think it's worth the amount he's asking for either way. Also, what kind of "Tuning" did he do on the Rifle?
 
Sounds like a fair price, I'd hold out for the case though. It would be hard to build this set-up for much less, plus I prefer private sales.
 
ask him who did the "tuning". Who trued the action and chambered the barrel?

The price is a a bit under what it would normally cost to get that set up. If the barreled action is done by a quality smith, it'd be tough to find one under $1200.
Just the parts + chambering the barrel
rem 700 action ~$400
True action and Chamber a barrel ~$350
Krieger barrel blank ~$300
BC A5 stock ~$450
CDI bottom metal ~$210
2 AI mags ~$125
trigger ~$100

Scope: ~$1100

If it shoots well, go for it. Get a pst with matching reticle and turrets tho for sure


Scope is a no go, mil-moa is a pain, definetly invest in a scope with matching reticle and turrets.
 
It seems like a pretty specialty case / cutout for that particular rig. Not sure why the owner would want to keep it. I would bargin for the case to be included too.

I doubt that he would sell it without the scope, so I would buy the package and put the scope up for sale and get something better. The PST 6-24 FFP would be the way to go.

One thing that seems "off" about the description is the claim of 100 "special barrel break in" rounds. WTF does that even mean? I'm not aware that such a thing exists and even so it doesn't take 100 rounds to "break-in" a barrel. Maybe 10-20 and most conventional wisdom now with quality barrels is that break-in is not required. But that's a whole separate debate itself.....

I would say go for it. The upgrades alone are probably worth the price. Even better if you can ask to put a few rounds through it at the range before buying. But even if not, as long as the gun is not trashed or has obvious defects - its probably a decent deal. Offer him $2100 cash + the case and I'd bet he'll take it.
 
It seems like a pretty specialty case / cutout for that particular rig. Not sure why the owner would want to keep it. I would bargin for the case to be included too.

I doubt that he would sell it without the scope, so I would buy the package and put the scope up for sale and get something better. The PST 6-24 FFP would be the way to go.

One thing that seems "off" about the description is the claim of 100 "special barrel break in" rounds. WTF does that even mean? I'm not aware that such a thing exists and even so it doesn't take 100 rounds to "break-in" a barrel. Maybe 10-20 and most conventional wisdom now with quality barrels is that break-in is not required. But that's a whole separate debate itself.....

I would say go for it. The upgrades alone are probably worth the price. Even better if you can ask to put a few rounds through it at the range before buying. But even if not, as long as the gun is not trashed or has obvious defects - its probably a decent deal. Offer him $2100 cash + the case and I'd bet he'll take it.

Depending on the dude's chosen break-in process, he could have used reduced power loads maybe? No clue, but it does seem like the seller knows more about all of this than the buyer. So there could have been a little bit of a "telephone" effect.

I agree with the above posters that the rifle itself seems like a decent setup, but the scope is where you would regret it. Even more, it doesn't seem like you're getting a great deal either. So you're buying someone else's dream rifle for a little less than they spent on it. Personally, I would rather just have my own dream rifle built instead. Also, the 1:12 barrel might be limiting based on what range you plan on getting out to.
 
Even more, it doesn't seem like you're getting a great deal either. So you're buying someone else's dream rifle for a little less than they spent on it. Personally, I would rather just have my own dream rifle built instead.

That's an excellent point.

Still, it might be worth low-balling the seller to see what he could get it for. Basically tell him you will have to ditch the scope and get a new one, so you need an appropriate amount taken off the price. Its possible he's a motivated seller and is wiling to drop the $$ significantly. The main advantage to this setup is the OP gets to shoot right away rather than waiting 6+ months for a custom gun to be built to his specs. If there is no rush, then I would go custom to my own specs. That way I know exactly what I'm getting.
 
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That's a very good price.
I have that exact same scope and its very good.
On the Pelican case. I have a bunch and other than when I go on an airplane I don't use them. I use a drag bag from safe to range and back
 
Quote "Scope is a no go, mil-moa is a pain, definitely invest in a scope with matching reticle and turrets." Imo you would take a big hit trying to sell the scope with mil/moa turrets which should be used to evaluate the buy price. Not worth it in my opinion.
 
The 100 rounds of special break in rounds were probably lapping bullets.

I would probably let this one go. Krieger barrels are already hand lapped if I am not mistaken. The special rounds didn't do you any good, probably hurt the barrel slightly. They have lapping compound on them. Even if you need to lap a barrel, one hundred rounds sounds excessive. These first hundred rounds probably shortened your barrel life by 1000.

It sounds like the owner of this rifle didn't know much about building a setup.

MIL/MOA scopes are way behind the curve.
1:12 is good for 168gr, but 168gr is a poor performer at 1000yards.
Fire lapping a hand lapped barrel, who does that?
Did he have the action tuned, or trued?


You might not can build this rifle for that price but you can build a rifle suited for your needs for what it would take to fit this rifle to your needs.
 
The 100 rounds of special break in rounds were probably lapping bullets.

I would probably let this one go. Krieger barrels are already hand lapped if I am not mistaken. The special rounds didn't do you any good, probably hurt the barrel slightly. They have lapping compound on them. Even if you need to lap a barrel, one hundred rounds sounds excessive. These first hundred rounds probably shortened your barrel life by 1000.

It sounds like the owner of this rifle didn't know much about building a setup.

MIL/MOA scopes are way behind the curve.
1:12 is good for 168gr, but 168gr is a poor performer at 1000yards.
Fire lapping a hand lapped barrel, who does that?
Did he have the action tuned, or trued?


You might not can build this rifle for that price but you can build a rifle suited for your needs for what it would take to fit this rifle to your needs.

This is all great information. I've been thinking about building something off of the Remington 700 platform. I would love a 1000 yard gun that still has some punch when it hits its target. Any recommendation on caliber, scope, etc, with the goal in mind of keeping it around or under $2000.00?
 
I ran into a similar offer. Nice Remington 700 build complete in a Pelican with scope. There was a bit of rust damage on the rifle, but I couldn't pass it up. I negotiated down to 2k with the case. Mine was in an AICS with a Leupy Mk4 8.5-25.

I'd probably have to pass on this one, unless the seller is willing to deal a bit more.
 
This is all great information. I've been thinking about building something off of the Remington 700 platform. I would love a 1000 yard gun that still has some punch when it hits its target. Any recommendation on caliber, scope, etc, with the goal in mind of keeping it around or under $2000.00?

I think it just really depends on what you would consider a 1000 yard gun. If all you want to do is to be able to a 24"x24" then many firearms would fit that bill.

My suggestion? Find a good used 700 without the x trigger. Don't worry about the barrel. I would get something in 7mm, 243, 308, 260, anything that uses a .308 bolt. This isn't terribly important, you can find bolts everywhere. Have a quality smith add on a premium barrel, there are plenty of reviews out there.

I wouldn't worry about truing the action unless it is inexpensive with your smith, or if you need the razor edge of precision.

Have him chamber it in .308win. It is one of the cheapest ways to get to 1000 yards and I think it is one of the best rounds for a beginner. It doesn't fight the wind like many other calibers, so you'll have to learn how to shoot.

You want something that would be close to 200gr. The higher the BC the less that air effects it.

Then get you a Vortex (PST) or Bushnell (Go to the high middle to the higher end, low end isn't much) or a Super Sniper. The main thing is to get a reticle that matches the turret. It can be MIL/MIL or MOA/MOA, it doesn't make any difference. Don't get a plain duplex (Probably anything with "plex" in the reticle name) scope, it would be a hindrance. The Horus style reticles are nice, and you would get use to them but they're usually only on the higher end scopes, and cost a bit more.

I would also suggest NOT to get 1/8moa or .05 mil. You'll be dialing a lot and not getting much more out of it. Few firearms are precise enough to warrant a 1/8moa/.5mil scope. A 1/4moa will always get you to 1/8moa from actual impact.

You probably will go over the $2000, but I think you'll be close.

In long range shooting, spend more on your scope than on your gun. Buy just ONE scope for any given parameter, you can always mount it on a different firearm.

Just remember, this is can be an expensive hobby. Mainly because it is hard not to want to keep going.


Lastly, I am one of the least experienced person on this website. So I may be wrong about things, but I do my best to always be correct.
 
I would first figure out what the rifle will be used for (hunting and at what distance, punching paper or banging steel) what range is available to determine how far you can stretch the rifle. No sense in wanting a 1000+ yard gun and only can shoot out to 300yards. After knowing this can you make a caliber selection. Factory ammo or will you be handloading? Availability of ammo is crucial if your going factory. Once you've decided upon caliber then you can see who makes a factory rifle with that caliber with the features you need or want*. *some features will have to go custom as they may not be straight from factory. If no factory makes the rifle in the caliber you need then you may have to go to another suitable caliber or go custom rifle. Custom get be pricey but you get to decide what you need/want vs dont need/want. Wait times can be longer than expected.

.308 is a good caliber for its intended purpose but there are better depending on the task. A vortex viper pst ffp plus rings and base will eat up half of your budget of $2000.
 
It is what it is...

If it is exactly what you want, yes, it’s an ok deal but not great. If all the parts that make up the package are not your must have’s then no it is not a good deal. Offer 900 to grand for the barreled action and/or move on.
 
I would first figure out what the rifle will be used for (hunting and at what distance, punching paper or banging steel) what range is available to determine how far you can stretch the rifle. No sense in wanting a 1000+ yard gun and only can shoot out to 300yards. After knowing this can you make a caliber selection. Factory ammo or will you be handloading? Availability of ammo is crucial if your going factory. Once you've decided upon caliber then you can see who makes a factory rifle with that caliber with the features you need or want*. *some features will have to go custom as they may not be straight from factory. If no factory makes the rifle in the caliber you need then you may have to go to another suitable caliber or go custom rifle. Custom get be pricey but you get to decide what you need/want vs dont need/want. Wait times can be longer than expected.

.308 is a good caliber for its intended purpose but there are better depending on the task. A vortex viper pst ffp plus rings and base will eat up half of your budget of $2000.

I do a lot of hunting. Recently I shot a Desert Bighorn sheep. I used a Gunwerks rifle that used a 6.5x.284 Norma round and it was awesome. I shot my sheep from 450yrds away and it was dead immediately.

I'm not looking to hunt animals at a 1000 yards, but I want a gun that is capable of doing so. Does that make sense?
 
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Quote "Scope is a no go, mil-moa is a pain, definitely invest in a scope with matching reticle and turrets." Imo you would take a big hit trying to sell the scope with mil/moa turrets which should be used to evaluate the buy price. Not worth it in my opinion.

Now how the hell did we every get by the last thirty years with Mildots and MOA adjustments. No doubt MIL Mill is easier to learn but Mil MOA is simple