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Is this a no no?

Texasflyer

Koala Gladiator
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Mar 3, 2021
    1,679
    1,948
    Texas
    I have made up 5 solid brass 12 guage shells. But i want to shoot some slugs out of em. On these 5 shells i drilled them out and chamfered them to take 209 primers. Running federal 2 peice wads and havent decided on powder, i have a few kinds for shotgun. The slug is a lyman slug i pour from soft cast lead using a svarog mould. I also cut 5 shells apart and removed the plastic seat for the shell head that levels powder with the primer and just moved them over to the brass shells and tapped them in. I have tons of reloading experience for rifle and pistol, but not much for shotgun and especially not with these types of shells. Just curious what the hide thinks.
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    I dont know the answer but I like your style.

    I am guessing these are not for a semi or mag tube gun.....just drop ins?

    I know nothing of shotgun loading but see how these could be an "off the grid" reloading option - is that the reason for it?

    Or....

    Is it for Cowboy Action style gunning?
     
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    I dont know the answer but I like your style.

    I am guessing these are not for a semi or mag tube gun.....just drop ins?

    I know nothing of shotgun loading but see how these could be an "off the grid" reloading option - is that the reason for it?
    Yeah i wanted some high use loads, but im stupid and get curious. I dont plan on shooting slugs thru em, but i kinda gotta try it. They will have an overshot card glued on when i shoot em
     
    No, not cowboy action. I saw a few guides in remote places use them with a little reloading box in the feild and i thought it was a good peice of kit.
     
    The primitive ability to load without a bench tool hit me right away.

    A horn of powder, pouch of shot, couple dowels, you have effective food ammo and self defense.

    Im looking forward to your post on conjuring salt peter and charcoal into powder as well as best distance to drop molten lead for shot production. :)
     
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    The primitive ability to load without a bench tool hit me right away.

    A horn of powder, pouch of shot, couple dowels, you have effective food ammo and self defense.

    Im looking forward to your post on conjuring salt peter and charcoal into powder as well as best distance to drop molten lead for shot production. :)
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    Lol, yeah im into that stuff lol.
     
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    @pmclaine i always had an attraction to the lee reloading sets that were little self contained reloaders. I remember when i would go to my gunshop and buy them all that were stacked up used for 5 bucks apeice.
     
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    @pmclaine i always had an attraction to the lee reloading sets that were little self contained reloaders. I remember when i would go to my gunshop and buy them all that were stacked up used for 5 bucks apeice.

    The ultimate is the Colt .36/.44 caliber black powder revolvers......they are designed with their own reloading press...

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    The ultimate is the Colt .36/.44 caliber black powder revolvers......they are designed with their own reloading press...

    View attachment 7631544
    I reload the 357 magnum wad cutters for my ruger blackhawk with basic tools, no crimping, just a 5cc powder dipper from a 9mm lee set, i got to where i could load 100 faster than i can make 9 with my progressive press lol.
     
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    Black powder is great fun. Its pretty corrosive though. Be sure to wash it down with hot water and oil before storing it away for any amount of time.

    Most powder horns are also the measure.

    I knew nothing first time I fired my BP Colt 1860 Army. Im lucky I didnt blow my hand off. I had bought a pistol specific loading kit and the "nipple" for the powder magazine must be set for the appropriate amount of grains because I was just putting my finger over the tube dumping powder from the magazine, shutting off the valve than dropping the powder in the cylinder. Top it off with a ball add some grease to prevent chain fire, cap and go.
     
    Black powder is great fun. Its pretty corrosive though. Be sure to wash it down with hot water and oil before storing it away for any amount of time.

    Most powder horns are also the measure.

    I knew nothing first time I fired my BP Colt 1860 Army. Im lucky I didnt blow my hand off. I had bought a pistol specific loading kit and the "nipple" for the powder magazine must be set for the appropriate amount of grains because I was just putting my finger over the tube dumping powder from the magazine, shutting off the valve than dropping the powder in the cylinder. Top it off with a ball add some grease to prevent chain fire, cap and go.
    For whatever reason i have been wanting a black powder rifle. I have never shot one, the difference in recoil and timing of the shot going off make it seem like a whole new world. add that to not seeing much powder lately...
     
    You may like the way i have been copper plating my cast bullets. Using copper sulfate, the burner plate/circulator from a coffee pot and copper wire, and 1.5v electrical charger. Its pretty effective but i need a more pure anode rod. Just been using copper tubing
     
    Only thing I'd be concerned about is the length. I'd make sure the case it doesn't protrude past the chamber. That might get exciting. How did you make the brass shells?
     
    Only thing I'd be concerned about is the length. I'd make sure the case it doesn't protrude past the chamber. That might get exciting. How did you make the brass shells?
    I bought them from midway. Magtech 2 1/2" solid brass shells. They come setup for running large pistol primers but are easy to change over
     
    Also, i dont plan on always shooting these with slugs. Just a couple to satisfy curiosity. Normally i dont make lead shot, i buy the copperhead bb gun bbs in bottles of 6000 and they are about like running 7 shot imo
     
    Congratulations on staying so flexible.
    Dirtbikes. They fixed my lower back pain i had a few years ago too. I mean it was bad, i woke up one day and felt old all of a sudden. Then i fixed a dirtbike for a guy and ended up racing around with my brother test riding it. That night i locked up and couldnt move even, i was scared. Next day i was 20 years younger. I ride at least once a month or the pain comes back.
     
    So, update. The makers mark crystaline wax did not do a passable job on the overshot card. I did not fire any slugs thru these, just too iffy for it falling down the barrel. This is what i came up with. I loaded 10 of the 25. If anybody wants a play by play of how i made them work i would be glad to post it. The red ones are federal 2 part wads with bird shot, the green ones are winchester wads with bird shot, the orange ones are winchester wads with copperhead bbs, i placed the over shot card and used clear silicone this time.
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    OP, I made some of those mag tech shotgun shells last year. I found that they are made with a ”balloon” construction and will give you bloopers if you use regular nitro powders….not all the time..but mostly. The box says the shells are made for black powder, and they work fine with real BP. The reason is the primer hole is above where some of the powder sits.
    there is a way to make them work with regular powders but it involves pouring epoxy in the base of the shell to bring the bottom to be even, then redrill the flash hole thru the epoxy….this was more than I wanted to do and I began using regular blackpowder.
    Also, shotgun powders require some pushback/resistance when used. This allowes all of the powder to ignite before the shell payload begins moving down the barrel. With real BP, the powder burns much faster than nitro powder and doesn’t require back pressure.
    I found the 12 ga shells needed 10/ 11 gauge fiber wads depending on brand and 11ga overshot cards. I used elmers glue to secure the last overshot card and allowed it to dry overnight.
    I found that 12ga plastic WAA12 wads to be very loose inside the thinner brass shell and dispensed with plastic shotcup/wads altogether.
     
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    If you're using the standard lead polyethylene wads on the Copperheads BB load, you will likely score (dent) the bore of your shotgun. Steel shot (Copperhead) need a thicker wad made from a thicker plastic. Take apart a steel waterfowl load and you'll see the different wad.

    Hope you haven't shot them yet.
     
    @pmclaine i always had an attraction to the lee reloading sets that were little self contained reloaders. I remember when i would go to my gunshop and buy them all that were stacked up used for 5 bucks apeice.
    Started my reloading with Lee Loaders in the late 60’s and early 70’s. For the time, the rifles and my skill level shooting and the shooting facilities available, it all worked out pretty good. An RCBS beam scale really helped with the accuracy and ability to vary loads.

    (But the Lord only knows how slow it was, and dipping powder out of a bowl and then dribbling the exact amount out of a spoon onto the scale, but when you are poor and have millionaire needs, one does what’s it takes.)
     
    What powder and how much?

    I have some experience at this but I don't load Brass. I do reload some plastic shells, I don't think you will have an issue other than the question above.

    The blue shells are factory the others I do with a roll crimper and hull vise from BPI

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