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Is truing mv at 300 yards worth it?

Sokam101

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 10, 2020
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Im currently am getting into prs. At my range I can only shoot out to 300 yards. My 5 shot group was 1 inch high at 300. I needed to bump my mv 80 fps on my ballistic app to get it lower. At 1000 yards that's a 20+ inch difference. Is it even worth truing that close? I'm not sure what to do as I can't get anywhere father here in the north east to validate. Anyone have recommendations? My scope is a razer gen 2 and my 143 eldx 6.5 creedmoor loads average 10-12 sd 2640 fps

Thank you
 
Not really, it's a start, maybe,

if things work out in your favor you can do a 300 drop measurement, no dope on the rifle from 100-yard zero then measure the drop to 300 and line that up, but I have seen that not work with every rifle/caliber combo also.

300 is a bit close for this ... 600 is better
 
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If you have no other data to help true you system, sure! go for it. Just be ready to true it again when you have data further out that is more reliable to true with.. I would say truing your program at 300 yards is "playing" with the program rather than actually truing it. And an inch at 300yds is 1/10th of a mil. That matches the consistency errors we might expect to have any ways. +- 0.1 or 0.2 is expected.
 
What ballistic calculator are you using?

Are you using the G1 or G7 drag model?

How have you verified this muzzle velocity data?

Were the weather conditions from when you zeroed wildly different than when you shot this group?

I am assuming you have your rifled zeroed at 100 yards?

I feel like there is something off about your data or settings. There are lots of settings in the ballistics apps that, if set incorrectly, can give you issues.
 
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I figure it's all up to you which ever your comfortable with . I like my zero at 100 yards and am chomping at the bits to get to Ohio to try a mile . good luck to you and I hope it all works out for you .
 
My true zero is at 100. I've been using geobalistics and it's using the g7 of my 143 eldx. I have a lab radar and entered all my data from the app windy. I know I need a kestrel but it will come with time. I'm just getting into it. I might need to sneak off to some power lines and get some distance.
 
Your data collection sounds solid and you have the right tools.

I would get the Hornady App and plug in your data. They have the latest and greatest data for their bullets baked in.

See if your data from Geoballistics matches what the Hornady app outputs.

Also, as another post points out, 1 inch at 300 yards is .1 - .2 mils. That's not a lot of error.

You mentioned going to some power lines and getting some long range data, that is a good plan. That will get you the information you really need to true up your ballistic app.

The book Applied Ballistics for Long Range Shooting is a good read if you like reading.
 
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I wouldn’t go messing with software if you’re an inch high at 300.

There’s a list a mile long that can cause this. And software is only one of them. If it’s one of the other 10 things non software related then you just messed up your entire curve.

In short, you’ll need 6-800 yds to really get good data.
 
The only thing you can do at 300 is conduct a drop test, and then you know you have not made a radically wrong data entry error. You did not enter 9200 fps rather than 2900 fps. Your software should now get you on a reasonable size (3 MOA) target at 900.

Tuning is done at the far end of the supersonic range, in the 1300 to 1150 fps range, otherwise you are not getting useful information.
 
I figure it's all up to you which ever your comfortable with . I like my zero at 100 yards and am chomping at the bits to get to Ohio to try a mile . good luck to you and I hope it all works out for you .

You might want to sit this one out. It seems to be slightly outside your lane.
 
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My true zero is at 100. I've been using geobalistics and it's using the g7 of my 143 eldx. I have a lab radar and entered all my data from the app windy. I know I need a kestrel but it will come with time. I'm just getting into it. I might need to sneak off to some power lines and get some distance.

Did you happen to double check your 100yd zero again, before you went out to 300yds?

Plus...if you're only 0.1mil high at 300yds...if you went to go shoot 1000yds, that only put you ~3.6" high....as opposed to messing with your MV which COULD potentially screw your DOPE up by 20in...
 
I just did listen to Frank on the everyday sniper podcast no bs bc part 1 on May st discuss this with Bryan Litz and Emil Praslick. Bryans thoughts were you shouldn't adjust fps until you fall to 1500 fps and then true from there. Other wise your just chasing things. Just food for thought.
 
Ill have to double check my zero smart to gusta7. I need to relisten to the no BS bc. That was like drinking from a fire hose for this new shooter lol
 
Ill have to double check my zero smart to gusta7. I need to relisten to the no BS bc. That was like drinking from a fire hose for this new shooter lol
It has a lot of stuff in it for sure. I'm still learning myself, just happen to listen to that very one this morning though. So i got lucky with your question haha.
 
It has a lot of stuff in it for sure. I'm still learning myself, just happen to listen to that very one this morning though. So i got lucky with your question haha.

You are right. I need to legit get a note book and write the stuff down way to much to process when driving. I really enjoyed all of those tho.
 
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That is not quite what Bryan said on the podcast,

he said they true MV up to 1300fps and then BC after that based off the Kestrel Truing and not the individual software side of it...

Basically he repeated how the kestrel trues, which is not how most of us do it, but how the Kestrel works.

We true MV 600 and in, and BC 800 and out, manually
 
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That is not quite what Bryan said on the podcast,

he said they true MV up to 1300fps and then BC after that based off the Kestrel Truing and not the individual software side of it...

Basically he repeated how the kestrel trues, which is not how most of us do it, but how the Kestrel works.

We true MV 600 and in, and BC 800 and out, manually
Thanks for the clarification!
 
I mentioned in another thread that AB does not allow adjusting the BS when using a purchased curve. In fact it does not even display the BC. Is it better to manually build the profile to allow for adjusting the BS vs using the purchased curve? (I think the answer I will hear will be to test it)
 
I mentioned in another thread that AB does not allow adjusting the BS when using a purchased curve. In fact it does not even display the BC. Is it better to manually build the profile to allow for adjusting the BS vs using the purchased curve? (I think the answer I will hear will be to test it)

That’s because there is no BC when using the curve. BC is a comparison to a projectile type. Custom curve is actual Doppler data on a bullet.

Either will produce fine results if utilized properly. Bullets like Berger that are very consistent from bullet to bullet will do extremely well with the custom curve. Bullets that aren’t very consistent will do worse with the custom curve as they differ more from the bullets run over Doppler.
 
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That’s because there is no BC when using the curve. BC is a comparison to a projectile type. Custom curve is actual Doppler data on a bullet.

Either will produce fine results if utilized properly. Bullets like Berger that are very consistent from bullet to bullet will do extremely well with the custom curve. Bullets that aren’t very consistent will do worse with the custom curve as they differ more from the bullets run over Doppler.
I do compare ELDs but I load 50 at a time in order of longest to shortest, then fire them in order as well. Bergers I do not sort. I probably cannot shoot the difference. I will use your information and try something - only use the BDC for Bergers and tweek the BC for ELDs. (I have two 6.5s with designated throats and matched projectiles)
 
I do compare ELDs but I load 50 at a time in order of longest to shortest, then fire them in order as well. Bergers I do not sort. I probably cannot shoot the difference. I will use your information and try something - only use the BDC for Bergers and tweek the BC for ELDs. (I have two 6.5s with designated throats and matched projectiles)

Ya, elds I always have to tweak a little here and there.

Berger, especially the 109’s lately, all I’ve done is input the actual velocity into the custom curve and it’s been spot on. Three different lots so far.
 
Ive been using Hornady 143 eldx but I really should try with a different bullet. What should I consider for hunting and match bullets for 6.5 creedmoor?
 
That’s because there is no BC when using the curve. BC is a comparison to a projectile type. Custom curve is actual Doppler data on a bullet.

Either will produce fine results if utilized properly. Bullets like Berger that are very consistent from bullet to bullet will do extremely well with the custom curve. Bullets that aren’t very consistent will do worse with the custom curve as they differ more from the bullets run over Doppler.
And to add to Dave's comments, AB uses DSF to true at transonic for custom curves, after you have calibrated MV inside transonic.
 
With a 6.5mm Creedmoor loaded in Applied Ballistics Mobile it states
Range 1 should be between 1022 and 1349
Range 2 should be between 1915 and 2420
Range 3 should be at least 300 yards past Range 2

I do not have beyond 1200 yards so I use the calibrate feature at 1200, 900 and 650.

Seems to work. I cold bore center punch targets weekly from 570 - 1200.