Gunsmithing j lock removal
- Thread starter poorboyshooter
- Start date
Re: j lock removal
You have to purchase a whole firing pin assembly, from somewhere like Brownells or Midway. This includes the shroud, firing pin, etc. I replaced mine, and tried to disassemble the j-lock assembly on the old one. What I found is, (if you were to search) "they" are right, you can't. It is a permanent assembly, if you want to take it apart then you have to drill some parts out, doing that means it doesn't stay together.
You have to purchase a whole firing pin assembly, from somewhere like Brownells or Midway. This includes the shroud, firing pin, etc. I replaced mine, and tried to disassemble the j-lock assembly on the old one. What I found is, (if you were to search) "they" are right, you can't. It is a permanent assembly, if you want to take it apart then you have to drill some parts out, doing that means it doesn't stay together.
Re: j lock removal
I forgot to mention something also. None of the J-lock assembly parts are interchangeable with the standard assembly parts, and by that I really mean none. Firing pin, shroud, cocking piece and spring are all different.
I forgot to mention something also. None of the J-lock assembly parts are interchangeable with the standard assembly parts, and by that I really mean none. Firing pin, shroud, cocking piece and spring are all different.
Re: j lock removal
Removing the temptation to use it, making the rifle "prettier" since there's no ugly protrusion...
Removing the temptation to use it, making the rifle "prettier" since there's no ugly protrusion...
Re: j lock removal
I have a new PT&G firing pin assembly that I dont need, it is for a Long action if you interested.
I have a new PT&G firing pin assembly that I dont need, it is for a Long action if you interested.
Re: j lock removal
Dual purpose to getting rid of the j-lock. One is that the J-lock firing pin assembly makes the firing pin spring buckle. The spring gets two or three wavy bends in it and rubs the inside of the bolt body, which supposedly reduces firing pin energy. Mine didn't have any problems that I could attribute to the buckled spring, so I can only repeat what I read elsewhere.
The other is it is really easy to spin the J-lock so that it locks, but you need the key to unlock it. You can spin it closed with your fingers quite easily. I saw one guy at the range that forgot his key and couldn't shoot because of this. (lucky it wasn't me). Though it turns out an X-acto #11 blade can be used to get it open if you lose the tool. It is just aggravating to have an example of the nanny state on your gun in the form of this little lock button.
Dual purpose to getting rid of the j-lock. One is that the J-lock firing pin assembly makes the firing pin spring buckle. The spring gets two or three wavy bends in it and rubs the inside of the bolt body, which supposedly reduces firing pin energy. Mine didn't have any problems that I could attribute to the buckled spring, so I can only repeat what I read elsewhere.
The other is it is really easy to spin the J-lock so that it locks, but you need the key to unlock it. You can spin it closed with your fingers quite easily. I saw one guy at the range that forgot his key and couldn't shoot because of this. (lucky it wasn't me). Though it turns out an X-acto #11 blade can be used to get it open if you lose the tool. It is just aggravating to have an example of the nanny state on your gun in the form of this little lock button.
Re: j lock removal
Please expand on the #11 X-Acto blade technique, in case a friend locks up their J-Lock at the range. Might be helpful in the right context.
Please expand on the #11 X-Acto blade technique, in case a friend locks up their J-Lock at the range. Might be helpful in the right context.
Re: j lock removal
If the right replacement is used, you could gain faster locking time=better groups.
If the right replacement is used, you could gain faster locking time=better groups.
Re: j lock removal
Regarding using a #11 X-acto blade (the pointy blade) to open a J-lock...
All one needs to do is jam an X-acto blade into the slot and shift it and swing it sideways a bit while trying to spin the J-lock barrel back to the open position. You just need a small, blade-like tool to get down into the barrel far enough. What is happening is that you depress the locking plunger out of the way, allowing the J-lock barrel to spin. It wouldn't hurt to have an even narrower blade, if I remember right the blade will take a bit of a set when you jam it in.
Background:
There is no elaborate key lock inside it J-lock, it is simply a rotating barrel with a catch (you could say one way cam) that engages another spring loaded plunger. The J-lock barrel engages the firing pin, each has mutually aligned cutouts. The J-lock barrel has a cutout that can clear the firing pin body when unlocked, and when rotated, the body of the J-lock engages with a matching cutout in the firing pin, preventing the firing pin from moving. This is why the J-lock can only be locked when the firing pin is rearward, the rearward position is where the firing pin cutout is.
I screwed around with it for a while before finally taking it completely apart by drilling out the staked hole in the shround that holds a ball bearing, spring and plunger, I thought before I did this it would be a good idea to see how to defeat it. Too bad I didn't take any pictures though, sorry about that.
Regarding using a #11 X-acto blade (the pointy blade) to open a J-lock...
All one needs to do is jam an X-acto blade into the slot and shift it and swing it sideways a bit while trying to spin the J-lock barrel back to the open position. You just need a small, blade-like tool to get down into the barrel far enough. What is happening is that you depress the locking plunger out of the way, allowing the J-lock barrel to spin. It wouldn't hurt to have an even narrower blade, if I remember right the blade will take a bit of a set when you jam it in.
Background:
There is no elaborate key lock inside it J-lock, it is simply a rotating barrel with a catch (you could say one way cam) that engages another spring loaded plunger. The J-lock barrel engages the firing pin, each has mutually aligned cutouts. The J-lock barrel has a cutout that can clear the firing pin body when unlocked, and when rotated, the body of the J-lock engages with a matching cutout in the firing pin, preventing the firing pin from moving. This is why the J-lock can only be locked when the firing pin is rearward, the rearward position is where the firing pin cutout is.
I screwed around with it for a while before finally taking it completely apart by drilling out the staked hole in the shround that holds a ball bearing, spring and plunger, I thought before I did this it would be a good idea to see how to defeat it. Too bad I didn't take any pictures though, sorry about that.
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