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Just bought a Remington 700 5R 300 WM.

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Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 20, 2012
328
3
Illinois
Like the title says I just bought a 700 5R mil spec 300WM 24in threaded barrel and I'm looking for suggestions.

Which rail should I get? I was looking at Nightforce.
Bottom metal?
Ring height for a 50mm objective?

Does this Rifle need to get the action worked on?
Bolt fluting? Who does it?

I would also like to get it cerakoted. Who does good work?

Any thing else I need? I do a lot of long range shooting with my LMT 308 and this is my first bolt gun believe it or not so want it done right.
 
My vote is for whatever rail you like and can get the quickest to get some trigger time! You can always tweak it later, once you find what you do and don't like
 
I would think all you need now is a rail and maybe a brake if its already threaded.

Getting the bolt fluted doesn't help right now, and if you take the rifle apart to true it and reset the barrel, you might as well get a new barrel.

Get a good scope, rings, base and as much ammo as you can. Trigger time is your best investment.
 
Doesn't much matter whose rail you buy but I would suggest getting one with at least 20 moa of cant so you can stretch that 300WM out a bit further.

Bolt fluting isn't really necessary, just looks cool. There is a guy here who does it, I think his screename is BoltFluter. Just do a search for bolt fluting...

The action doesn't NEED work but it can help. I think an aftermarket barrel helps a lot more though.

Lots of people do good Cerakote/Durakote work. ARPredatorHunter, ShortBus, and any decent gunsmith. Krylon is effective too, more fun, and much cheaper.

Your rifle already has bottom metal. If you are wanting detachable bottom metal for box magazines you will need to buy the DBM and have a smith inlet your stock to make it fit. They are not just simple bolt-on parts.
 
Make sure you get a lugged rail, ie Badger Ord, Seekins etc. don't be cheap on the rail as this is where your optics come into contact with the receiver. As far as fluting I never needed it. For 300 wm I myself recommend a brake of some sort. The 300 won't break you but a brake definitely makes life a little more comfortable. Before any work is done like trueing, see how she shoots first. If you were going to do all this work like trueing, bolt fluting you would've been better off starting with a custom build first. So since you have a base rifle with a wonderful track record, just shoot it for now and enjoy it. As you shoot more then you will be able to decide what upgrades you need or don't need. As for finish, I am a fan of the Krylon.... But I'm Mexican also LOL
 
Let me guess.......you bought it from Mile High Shooting? I was just about to purchase one there and when I went to place my order today it was gone. :-( Snoozed and loozed.

My suggestion would be to put in a Mcree chassis, sell the stock, install an APA Fat Bastard brake (or similar) , mount the scope of your preference and shoot the hell out of it. At least that was my plan. Now I have to try to locate another one. As you probably know they are scarce right now. If you know where there is another one for sale please PM me.

Enjoy your new rifle. I bet it's a shooter!
 
Mcree if you must have another stock, otherwise spraypaint that motherfucker and shoot the shit out of it. It will prob shoot as good now as 75% of the custom rigs out there. Those rifles are excellent shooters right out of the box
 
Congrats on the New 5R!!! I got the Same thing except the older model with longer 26" None Threaded Barrel. Shoots great straight in Factory Form! I'd also recommend to shoot it first then decide what you want to do with it next. After all it's your first Bolt Gun and more than capable straight out of the Box. I'd at least learn how to shoot well with it first then decide how custom you'd want it to be.

For a .300 WM that will reach out LONG you'd want a good foundation Base, Ring and most importantly the best glass you can afford. As far as rings go if you're going with a 50mm Objective you should be ok with Lows.

As for the Stock/Chassis upgrade I'd HIGHLY RECOMEND you take a look at the PDC Customs Chassis system. The owner Craig is a Awesome Vender and has great customer service and after service for his Products! I'm running my 5R in a PDC Folder which got Everything I Need/Want and nothing I don't. It's rock solid and looks Great Too!

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I bought it from impact guns yesterday. . They notified me that they got one in for 1179 so I bought it. Mile high was about 120 more. I was going to buy it a couple weeks ago and was stalling. Before I knew it they where sold out everywhere. I got extremely lucky.

I currently have a Nightforce F1 scope on my LMT 308 MWS. Ive been shooting 800+ yards with it every other weekend. I plan on using this scope for both guns until I can afford another.

I installed a few Nghtforce rails for some buddies and they seem to be very good rails and they have the recoil lug. Is badger ordnance any better?

As far as stocks go I like the manners stock. But that's on the back burner right now.

I def want cerakote. I have a 1911 that's is FDE cerakote and I love the finish. It's holding up great and looks great. I just don't have anyone local that does it.

I did want detachable mags. Which detachable bottom metal is the best?


Thanks guys.
 
I plan on shooting it before I do any work. I'm just trying to plan ahead. I've shot tons of Bolt guns and have my dads old bolt gun. However this is my first personal bolt gun that I'm going to trick out. I'm not new to long range shooting I just been doing it with the LMT 308 MWS.

I appreciate all the advice. I never built a bolt gun and I'm not a gunsmith. But know my fair share. I want to do it right the first time.
 
I bought it from impact guns yesterday. . They notified me that they got one in for 1179 so I bought it. Mile high was about 120 more. I was going to buy it a couple weeks ago and was stalling. Before I knew it they where sold out everywhere. I got extremely lucky.

I currently have a Nightforce F1 scope on my LMT 308 MWS. Ive been shooting 800+ yards with it every other weekend. I plan on using this scope for both guns until I can afford another.

I installed a few Nghtforce rails for some buddies and they seem to be very good rails and they have the recoil lug. Is badger ordnance any better?

As far as stocks go I like the manners stock. But that's on the back burner right now.

I def want cerakote. I have a 1911 that's is FDE cerakote and I love the finish. It's holding up great and looks great. I just don't have anyone local that does it.

I did want detachable mags. Which detachable bottom metal is the best?


Thanks guys.

Ok, since you didn't buy "MY" 300 Win Mag from Mile High you're off me sh^t list. LOL

Thanks for the lead to Impact Guns. I just signed up for their email notification. You asked about bottom metal.....wait and decide if you want to keep the HS Precision stock or change to something else. You'll need to have the stock inlet (milled out) to match the bottom metal. You want to make sure you have the stock you plan to keep before doing that. If you go with the Mcree Chassis it comes ready for mag's 9no bottom metal needed), has several flush cup attachement points and it doesn't require bedding (i.e. you can install the barreled action yourself). But like the others have said, do some shooting with it before you start making a lot of changes. The milspec 5R's are shooters out of the box.
 
Do you reload for your 5r? If so what load does it like?

I picked up some 208 Amax bullets.

Mine old one liked 77 grains of H-1000 seated .005 off lands fed 215m primers. My new one likes 76.8, but 77 is in the node also. That should get you in business.
 
I actually called mile high about theirs but didn't want to spend the 1299. So decided to pass and the next day Impact notified me.

I'll look into the mcree chassis. I really liked the manners and McMillan adjustable stocks tho
 
I actually called mile high about theirs but didn't want to spend the 1299. So decided to pass and the next day Impact notified me.

I'll look into the mcree chassis. I really liked the manners and McMillan adjustable stocks tho

You can't go wrong with any of those stocks. It really comes down to personal preference and how you will be using it. It helps if you can go to a gunsmith or range and get behind each one. I have a McMillan on my 308 and love it. I hated the "looks" of the Mcree when I first saw one several years ago. But after holding and shooting a few I'm now a huge fan.
 
Personally I like badgers rings and bases but the nightforces work just as well. With the F1 scope the standard badger height should clear but if you get a thicker barrel when rebarreling you may want to go mediums. Check the website for the heights, I can't remember it off hand right now. The stock that the 5r comes in is a great stock already but you would probably like to get one with an adjustable cheek piece. Again nobody can tell you which one to get since it's a personal preference thing. There is a thread around here that has a list of chassis system if you want to take a look at that. Major stocks are mcmillian and manners. MCM will need to be bedded and Manners has two options "mini chassis or bedding." You will need to look around a bit and ask people at the range to hold their rifle to see what you like. You have some time since you just got the rifle take the time to shoot the barrel out and figure out how you want to build it. Also the truing and cerakote can come all at once when you get your rifle rebarreled. Don't need to do it right now just do it all at once.
 
I did want detachable mags. Which detachable bottom metal is the best?


Thanks guys.

Like many here I always used the Badger Ord M5. Good and high quality. I recently tried APA's and liked the added features, like no latch hanging down and Jered's attention to detail and craftsmanship. Either one is gtg. As far as chassis, there are new wonderful designs. Like many have said try them all or as many as you can. I've owned several and have shot several, I may be old but my favorite stock is still the old Mcmillan HTG. It just feels good in alternating positions to me.
 
I wish there was a place around me that I could get behind each stock to see which one fits me best. I shoot on private land. I have about 1400 yards. So needless to say there isn't anyone out there to try their stocks. And all the gun ranges out here are a joke.

I want to do all the work to this gun. It will be years before this gun needs a new barrel. By that time I will have a surgeon or gap built.
 
Invite to meet people here. I am originally from IL, so I know your pain. But if you offered to let them shoot on your 1400 yards land, "They will come"
 
Thomas Manner is on this site. I believe his user name is tmanner right now. Message him or give Manners a call and ask them about it.
 
As you say you want detachable magazines and to do the work on this rifle yourself, a chassis will be perfect for you. They require no bedding for the action and no inletting for detachable magazines. Get a curing oven and you can even do the cerakoting yourself.

If you announce that you have 1400 yard capability to shoot on people will come to shoot and that will give you a chance to learn from more experienced shooters as well as check out their gear to see what you like such as different chassis systems.

Personally, I had two custom rifles built and started shooting competitions with them. They both had strengths and weaknesses so I built a 3rd custom based off what I learned and now have a somewhat perfect competition rifle. I have to refrain from using it for practice as it is my favorite and don't want to burn it out... Point being, shoot a lot to include competitions and figure out what you need to change. It will be an eye-opening experience.
 
I'm want to order a rail for my gun. Does anyone know what size screws the 5r 300 win mag has? 8-40? I don't get my gun until Wednesday. I didn't want to pay a small fortune to overnight ship it.
 
I've been looking at the Manners t4a with Mini chassis. What's your thoughts on this stock. Is it true your not suppose to bed these mini chassis?
 
Manners T4A is good. It's very similar to the McMillan A5.

Your receiver will have standard 6x40 screws (not the larger 8x40).

Here is my suggestion for a base: get something with torx screws (nightforce or an upgraded EGW).

I realize you are sorta set on getting a mini chassis and DBM setup, but perhaps you may want to try it out as a top feeder first (Tac Ops rifles, which are among the best, are top loaders); this may save you a bunch of money. If you're willing to try that out, look for a two piece nightforce rail set so that way you can feed rounds into the receiver a lot easier.
 
I've been looking at the Manners t4a with Mini chassis. What's your thoughts on this stock. Is it true your not suppose to bed these mini chassis?

congrats on your new purchase. I just got a Rem 700 5R in 308 last month (my thread is on here somewhere), and I ended up going with the T4A with mini chassis. Gun is supposed to be here on Tuesday so I can't comment on my decision yet, but it was based on research and opinions around here (and my own perceived needs and style preferences). I can say that Tom Manners was very helpful to talk to, so give him a call. For a guy so busy, he made a lot of time for me and that was appreciated. On the bedding, he told me that you CAN bed the mini chassis, but it is not required. He mentioned something about only doing it is you will not be happy unless you have squeezed every last bit out of the accuracy of your gun, or something to that effect. For me, the added expense of the mini chassis was partially offset by the savings of not bedding. I'm sure the experts can chime in here and explain better than me. I'll post some pics next week when I get the gun in.
 
If you get a mini chassis then you don't need to bed it. Actually, you really don't have to bed any of the stocks that Manners or McMillan sells, but most people do because the performance enhancement is worth the cost compared to the total cost of a precision rifle. If you get a mini chassis, you will have lots of contact on the action, so much so that bedding it really doesn't enhance it's performance. I think it's better not to bed it so that it can be used across different barreled actions.
 
I Have a Nightforce F1 in a unimount on my LMT and wanted to use this scope on both guns so I'm leaning towards the Nightforce 1pc rail. Hopefully this won't be to high for the time being. I really like the look of the manners t4a and I like being able to have magazines. Right now I just want to get the rail put on and mount my scope so I can shoot it. I'm just trying to plan ahead on this rifle so I don't buy something I regret.

Is it worth getting the receiver tapped to 8-40?
 
Definitely buy what you want. I would only send the receiver off to get 8x40 holes drilled into it if you're going to have additional work done to it, e.g., tactical bolt knob and/or muzzle brake install. If you're going to use a magazine system, you'll notice that the Rem700 feed ramp protrudes into the magazine well. If you load long, which you often have to do because of the way factory actions are chambered and throated, you'll want to notch that section of the feedramp. If you send your receiver to the gunsmith to get 8x40 screws put in it, also have him notch the feedramp. If you decide against it, just carefully mark and color the section you want removed and take a dremel to it.
 
Any updates BIGB? I am curious to find out if you like the accuracy and if you found a stock.
 
Seconds on the curious of BigB and what he has learned so far and liked and disliked as I have just bought a stainless 5R 300 WM 26 inch myself.
 
As others have said, Seekins or Badger make good bases and rings. Get a scope mounted and shoot the rifle before deciding what to do next. The 5Rs are pretty good out of the box and it should shoot less than 1 MOA, mine shot .5 MOA. I'd bed the recoil lug, put on a Timney trigger (510U or Calvin Elite) and then have the muzzle threaded and brake installed/timed. While doing that, have the bolt knob installed. Then while it's at the gunsmiths, get it cerakoted if desired. At this point, you've got a good shooting rifle that won't beat you up too bad and can decide on whether or not you want to upgrade the stock. The factory stock by HS Precision is not bad. Get a good stock pack from Triad Tactical and have fun shooting.

I wouldn't do anything with the action until after seeing how the rifle shoots. If it's really bad, 1-2 MOA or more, you could get the action worked otherwise, shoot the barrel out while learning and then have the action trued when you put another barrel on.
 
I'm guessing they are 5/8x24 tpi on the threads ??? THRUSTER break from Badger, a new trigger... ( I put a Jewell hvr on mine but regret it only because I wish it was wider like a 40x), I have a NF NXS 5.5x22x50 on mine and also have had the 56 mm on as well. I use Leupold mark iv rings ( high on the 56 and medium on the 50). Have a 20 moa badger rail. If your looking to get the BEST possible accuracy, I suggest getting the stock you pick set up with an inlet for the 3.715" Accurate Mag. You will be very surprised at just how long your throats going to be. Or if you want to use the regular stock , it'll still stack em up to 3.6" something.
I bought an AICS for a ELR .300 winny I was building and was waiting on.... I dropped in the 5r to see if accuracy was going to increase at 600 yards plus. It didn't ... At all. This is it before I had the thruster added... Shrewd break at that point.


This is bone stock rifle at 520 yards with a 208 amax. Just a trigger and break.


This is 5 at 115 yards.


Here's the rifle ... Farthest from the camera. It's in a 700 P stock. The other rifles are a gap 6.5 creedmor and the ELR .300 just back from the smith before I dropped it in the AICS.


So in a nutshell , you'll be happy. But I've learned that hand loading for these things takes a 1 moa gun to a 3/8 to 1/2 moa gun. Someone mentioned the 208 amax. Great bullet over h1000 or r22. I've taken a 208 out to 1200 yards with a 6"
Group.
One more VERY IMPORTANT THING... IMO, DO NOT GET A RADIAL BREAK!! You'll be eating dust everytime you pull the trigger!! So I hope this helps!!
 
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I also have a Rem 700P 5R in 300 Win Mag a 26"

I use a 20MOA night force base and ARMS # 22 low rings with a leupold MK 4 8.5x25 x50 scope

I use the Sierra 220gr MK with 76.0 of H1000....

Sure is a sweet rifle ..:)
 
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I also have a Rem 700P 5R in 300 Win Mag a 26"

I use a 20MOA night force base and ARMS # 22 low rings with a leupold MK 4 8.5x25 x50 scope

I use the Sierra 220gr MK with 76.0 of H1000....

Sure is a sweet rifle ..:)


I see another person with 220 smk's over 76gr of H1000

The same load works awesome for me! Clocking in at 2840 fps and no pressure at all, and groups consistently at .5 moa hard to beat! :D