Gunsmithing Lathe Spindle Runout Question

GasLight

That Guy
Banned !
Full Member
Minuteman
Hello again all,

I had a guy interested in buying my current lathe come by and look at it yesterday. One of the tests he performed on it was to check the runout on the ID of the spindle nose. There was right around .002" of movement on the dial indicator. What problem does this indicate? What can be done to fix it? I don't seem to have any problems dialing this out with my 4-jaw, and I had real good luck when building my rifle with keeping the tolerances below .0005", so it this a real problem? It was sure enough for this gentleman to pass on buying the lathe.

Thanks for any insight!

Dave
 
Re: Lathe Spindle Runout Question

Im very interested to hear what the experienced machinists on here have to say about this too.


I think first off, there are different types of "runout"(if they're all called runout) in a spindle bore. It could point in a different direction than along "Z". It could "wiggle", and it could do that in several different ways.

I see a lot of ways a spindle bore could be off and make some bad movements.


I can see how a double spider fixture compensates for some of them and makes them no longer matter, but what about the others.

People here talk about holding tolerances tighter than .0002" on lathes that when you look up the specs on it, it says the lathe isn't capable of what they're doing with it.(where Im going with this, is, what method has to be used to overcome machine inaccuracies. Not callin anyone out)



I think it all depends on the method being used, and which type of "runout" we're talking about. The right fixture may be able to overcome certain types of machine runout and have it not matter at all.



Very interested in what the experienced guys have to say..




Its amazing to me that they can make these machines(lathes/mills) as good as they do. The spec sheet/sign off sheet for our lathe impressed me. A precision ground bar thrown in our 3-jaw reads VERY little runout both lengthwise and rotating. Almost none I dare say. I'll check again today.
 
Re: Lathe Spindle Runout Question

There is nearly zero 'wiggle' in the spindle itself, as in with the dial indicator positioned, we could not get it to move even .0005" when putting pressure at different points on either end of the spindle. I am taking this to mean that the bearings are still tight, and there is not an excessive wear on them? I really don't know. I am just confused with the runout in the ID.

This is a Leblond Regal 13x18 lathe, it is not the original style, but it is far from new.

Dave
 
Re: Lathe Spindle Runout Question

the spindle could be bent from a bad crash or it could have just been ground that far out from the get go. if you are measuring on the surface a collet would be pulled against, that's pretty far out if you were planning on using a collet and drawbar. if you never plan on using a collet pulled into it and always use some sort of chuck, it probably doesn't matter.

do you have a picture to show where the measurement was taken?
 
Re: Lathe Spindle Runout Question

I can take a picture tonight when I get back home and post it up. The dial indicator was positioned right at the edge of the ID on the spindle nose. The guy who looked at it seemed to think there might have been something happen to the bearings or something, but like I said above, they seem to run fine and there wasn't much if any 'wiggle' in them. He did mention collets, so maybe that was his concern
frown.gif


I'll try to get a picture up tonight
 
Re: Lathe Spindle Runout Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Keith at PCR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">People here talk about holding tolerances tighter than .0002" on lathes that when you look up the specs on it, it says the lathe isn't capable of what they're doing with it.
</div></div>

looking up a spec sheet on a machine doesn't necessarily mean it's not capable of what people are saying they are doing with it. that's like saying that someone is lying about holding 3/8" groups because they are using a rifle that has a 1/2" guarantee.


my lathe's quality control sign off had numbers much better than the the allowable tolerances.
 
Re: Lathe Spindle Runout Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Killer Spade 13</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is this a 3 jawed chuck?</div></div>

When I dialed out for my barrel I used a 4-jaw chuck.

The run-out I am talking about is directly on the spindle nose. My lathe has a 5MT internal taper in the spindle, and a L0 spindle nose for a chuck mount. The run-out that I am talking about in the post would be measured in the ID of the 5MT taper where you would mount a live/dead center, or potentially a collet with drawbar.
 
Re: Lathe Spindle Runout Question

It can also be the bearings, not running true, ie the inner race not round or any of fifty other causes. You can have runout, and yet have zero lash in the bearings.

Try checking the runout on the other machined surfaces of the spindle, look at the aft end of the spindle same way. One very good idea above was to see if it was in the same place every revolution. If it is precessing around, in a different spot every round, it could well be the bearings not running truely round. It will still cut reasonably round, but if you are doing very fine, precise work, the accuracy can suffer.

FWIW, .005+/- isn't enough to work well on most fine rifle and lathe work. Most higher end lathes can hold about ten times better than than, .0005, some to .0002.

Keith/300S, a lot of times when someone says a lathe can hold .0002, it may mean for one specific operation, one time. I worked once in a place that had about 50 HLVH Hardinges, we knew which machines to use for which job, some were much tighther in some operations than others. Real test of that two tenths, is how many parts can you make and not scrap any.
 
Re: Lathe Spindle Runout Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mikee Booshay</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
FWIW, .005+/- isn't enough to work well on most fine rifle and lathe work. Most higher end lathes can hold about ten times better than than, .0005, some to .0002.
</div></div>

Sorry, I meant .0005", I fixed my original post.

Dave
 
Re: Lathe Spindle Runout Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300sniper</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Keith at PCR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">People here talk about holding tolerances tighter than .0002" on lathes that when you look up the specs on it, it says the lathe isn't capable of what they're doing with it.
</div></div>

looking up a spec sheet on a machine doesn't necessarily mean it's not capable of what people are saying they are doing with it.
</div></div>

I know.


Did you read the paragraph I wrote right after the one you quoted?
Here it is again.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Keith at PCR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">But that all depends on the method being used, and which type of "runout" we're talking about. The right fixture may be able to overcome certain types of runout and have it not matter at all.
</div></div>
 
Re: Lathe Spindle Runout Question

How long has it been since spindle bearing pre-load has been checked/adjusted?

Thats the first thing I'd check

Was the lathe "warmed up" prior to the spindle runout test? If not, the test was for not and the reading was most likly to the plus side.
 
Re: Lathe Spindle Runout Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How long has it been since spindle bearing pre-load has been checked/adjusted?

Thats the first thing I'd check

Was the lathe "warmed up" prior to the spindle runout test? If not, the test was for not and the reading was most likly to the plus side. </div></div>

this is a good question as is the one asking if the runout was consistently in the same spot or if it wandered.
 
Re: Lathe Spindle Runout Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GasLight</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There is nearly zero 'wiggle' in the spindle itself, as in with the dial indicator positioned, we could not get it to move even .0005" when putting pressure at different points on either end of the spindle. </div></div>

My guess is that your lathe is OK and the run out is in the ID of the MT itself and not the spindle or bearings. Less than .0005" TIR on a cold machine spindle is what I'd consider good. Think about this for a moment, once warmed up, the metal that makes up the bearing system will expand slightly, it's only natural and a law of physics. There has to be some cold clearance in the bearings for this to happen and not seize up in the process.

When adjusting/setting the preload don’t get the bearings too tight. Be sure to run the machine afterwards checking for excess heat build up in the area of the spindle bearings. I’m sure there are specs somewhere on the net for LeBlond and their recommended spindle pre-load setting/measurement/adjustment.

Good luck to you.
 
Re: Lathe Spindle Runout Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mikee Booshay</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It can also be the bearings, not running true, ie the inner race not round or any of fifty other causes. You can have runout, and yet have zero lash in the bearings.

Try checking the runout on the other machined surfaces of the spindle, look at the aft end of the spindle same way. One very good idea above was to see if it was in the same place every revolution. If it is precessing around, in a different spot every round, it could well be the bearings not running truely round. It will still cut reasonably round, but if you are doing very fine, precise work, the accuracy can suffer.
</div></div>

I agree, going to need more points of reference to be able to tell anything.
 
Re: Lathe Spindle Runout Question

one more thing, what's the surface finish look like in the taper? the bearings could be just fine and the spindle could be straight but if there is a nick/ding or wear on the taper, that could cause what appears to be runout.
 
Re: Lathe Spindle Runout Question

Straying from Gaslights original question a bit....

There can be different types of "runout" when talking a lathe headstock right?

I mean the bearings could be a little loose until they warm up right?

The spindle could point in a different direction than Z(not be parallel to Z) right?

I cant explain them all by typing it out but in my head I can picture several ways a lathe could be "out"


Which of these are correctable with the double spider method? Which are correctable or even matter if not running through the headstock but using a steady rest like with some of those small Southbends?

I have questions about this subject but I don't know how to ask them correctly.

We weren't taught much about machinery in school. Learning about machine maintenance and function on my own.


If you have a double spider set up, one spider at the rear and one where your chuck is, will indicating a barrel in this way make up for any and all inaccuracy the lathe has? I can see how it would make up for some types of runout or inaccuracy in the lathe, but not all.
 
Re: Lathe Spindle Runout Question

Keith, I wasn't directing any critical comment there, just pointing out that there are other factors than just setting a DI or last word on it and shaking or spinning it.

Some very good ideas here, I did not think about the prewarm, and that is pretty important on high precision stuff. That place I worked with all the Hardinges, was temperature controlled, not just for the material, but for the machines as well.

Mr Roscoes observation about the eccentricity being in the taper is pretty good too. The lands for the bearings are likely ground during manufacture, and the MT cut afterwards.

I'd venture that few fixtures can compensate for a loose set of bearings, worn ways, slack in lead screws, or the other dozens of things that can add variance to parts.
 
Re: Lathe Spindle Runout Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mikee Booshay</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Keith, I wasn't directing any critical comment there, just pointing out that there are other factors than just setting a DI or last word on it and shaking or spinning it.



I'd venture that few fixtures can compensate for a loose set of bearings, worn ways, slack in lead screws, or the other dozens of things that can add variance to parts. </div></div>




Your first sentence, I have no idea what you're referring to. I am pretty tired though.

Your second comment I think is the answer to my last question right?
Can the basic idea of the double spider method compensate for machine runout and inaccuracies?
Is there a method out there that you can use to keep a barrel indicated in to .0002" or less if the machines runout is equal to or greater than .0002"?



My question simplified is this: Using a spider at the rear and a spider at the front(of the headstock), and indicating the barrel in to .0002", what types of machine runout or inaccuracy from wear do you have to be concerned with??


I wish I had my lathe manual with me Id be able to ask better
 
Re: Lathe Spindle Runout Question

Maybe try this.

Stick a piece of stock in the chuck.

Run the machine at 1k rpm for 1/2 hour.


Now take a .05" depth of cut pass off the stock.


Shut it down.

Kick into neutral.

run the indicator over the piece. Check for both TIR and taper.

If you get an hourglass taper consider looking over the bed of your machine. Older/high mileage lathes often develop a sag in the bed about a foot away from the chuck. This is because its where they spent 95% of their life. It's aggravated if prior machinists used abrasives with the part on the machine and neglected to take measures to protect the ways.

If the part runs true and there's no taper chances are your machine is ok. If it's all over the place then perhaps you need to look at replacing spindle bearings.

Good luck.

C.
 
Re: Lathe Spindle Runout Question

In 2009 was going to make a lighter 7mmRemMag rifle for myself on a Brazilian VZ24 action with a Lothar Walther 1300 taper barrel.
I decided I would first practice with my new lathe on a Brazilian 1908 action and a Rem700 take off barrel. I cut off the threads with a parting tool, cut the threads, and started reaming. But I forgot to de burr the cut off. The reamer started out with a wobble and never lost it all the way to headspacing. The chamber had .005" of run out.
The LW barrel got dialed in with a gimbal in the 4 jaw with a .0001" Interapid test indicator, and straightened out with a spud and spider, so it was not just concentric with the lathe, but parallel in the chamber.
When I took the rifles to the range, they would both shoot 0.75" 3 shot groups.
Like fear of a nuke bomb turning into fear of nuke power, I had turned fear of eccentric ammo into fear of eccentric chambers.
"Gauging Bullet Tilt" By A. A. ABBATIELLO 1960 ~ 1968
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">MATHEMATICAL SOLUTION
A laterally displaced center of
gravity moves through the rifle bore
in a helical (screw) path. The pitch
of this helix is the pitch of rifling,
and its radius is the lateral displace-
ment of the center of gravity. On
leaving the muzzle, the center of
gravity continues in the direction it
had at that point. For example, if it
leaves at top of the bore and rifling
is to the right, the departure will be
to the right. The bullet travels ap-
proximately 2l.5" in a 24" barrel,
making 2.15 turns in the 10" twist
of rifling. The number of turns
shows the orientation on emergence
compared with that in the chamber
before firing. The angle of emer-
gence is that angle whose tangent is
2 pi times the lateral displacement
divided by the rifling pitch. For
.004" point displacement and I0"
rifling pitch, the tangent is 1/8(2·pi)
(.004)/l0 and the corresponding
angle is 1.1 minutes.
The displacement on target from
this cause is proportional to the
range and can be obtained without
noting the angle. For example, ,004"
point displacement gives in l0"
rifling pitch, so far as this mecha-
nism goes, a target displacement at
100 yds. (3600") indicated by the
proportion .00l· pi /10=X/3600, from
which x =1.1".</div></div>
Notice how the tilted ammo must be inserted with random rotational orientation in order to get larger group sizes?
That does not happen with tilted chambers.
The bullets get flung off center, all in the same direction, and all into the same tiny group.

What does it all mean?
You will not be able to measure the difference in accuracy with two rifles, one chambered on lathe with .0020" run out and one with .0005" run out.
I would still pay for a lathe to have the smaller run out... but not because it will make rifles more accurate.

Also, I like to measure spindle run out statically. I put the dial indicator or test indicator on the spindle and then apply a radial force. Then I reverse the direction of the force. I do this to determine when to replace bearings, and when I am setting the pre load on new bearings. Sometimes I can get a complete fix, by reversing the axial orientation of a worn preloaded pair of bearings. If only one side of the inner race and one side of the outer race are worn, then use the other side.

 
Re: Lathe Spindle Runout Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GasLight</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There is nearly zero 'wiggle' in the spindle itself, as in with the dial indicator positioned, we could not get it to move even .0005" when putting pressure at different points on either end of the spindle. </div></div>

My guess is that your lathe is OK and the run out is in the ID of the MT itself and not the spindle or bearings. Less than .0005" TIR on a cold machine spindle is what I'd consider good. Think about this for a moment, once warmed up, the metal that makes up the bearing system will expand slightly, it's only natural and a law of physics. There has to be some cold clearance in the bearings for this to happen and not seize up in the process.

When adjusting/setting the preload don’t get the bearings too tight. Be sure to run the machine afterwards checking for excess heat build up in the area of the spindle bearings. I’m sure there are specs somewhere on the net for LeBlond and their recommended spindle pre-load setting/measurement/adjustment.

Good luck to you. </div></div>

Roscoes advice is very sound. I have a friend that is a Leblond specialist he rebuilds and services these machines and has for many years. I asked him about your issue and he also said to check it warmed up, but felt that some adjustment to the spindle bearings may be in order. The adjustment is under the headstock cover near the center of the spindle it should have a metal keeper that will need to be bent out of the notch on the spanner nut then you tighten up the spanner nuts a bit. Be careful not to over tighten and watch for excessive heat in the bearings. He added that the spindle should be a little difficult to start turning{by hand] but once broken over it should turn smoothly. Hope this helps
 
Re: Lathe Spindle Runout Question

The heat expansion/contraction idea is a real deal as stated.

Its why some machine tool manufactures have gone to tapered gamut spindle bearings that are under spring preloads at all times. It solves this "problem". Spindle chillers are almost std equipment now too on big production centers.

I've operated machines like this. Didn't make the gun anymore accurate.

Good luck with your sale.

C.