• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

Night Vision Let’s talk nods and muzzle devices

jb313

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Dec 5, 2013
73
77
Western, Mass
We cannot all be living in suppressor friendly states,
and for those that shoot at night with nods, is there any particular flash hider that seems to work best for you ?
How much damage are we inflicting on the tubes ?
 
Are blast cans a legal option? Often available from suppressor makers so you get their QD suppressor adapter, mount this not-at-all-sound-moderating device onto it before dark. A good flash hider with the blast/flash can over it is about halfway between a good flash hider and a suppressor.

It is my understanding the flash has no impact at all on the image intensifier. But it is annoying, makes it hard to keep track of what you just shot, etc.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jb313
An A2 flash hider is actually very good. The 3-prong designs tend to be the absolute best, like the Smith Vortex or the JP flash hider. This video compares the flash of various muzzle devices, measured in lux. NODs are generally safe up to maybe 1 lux. As far as potentially damaging the tube, the autogating kicks in very quickly, so muzzle flash isn't really something which I'd be worried about. If the flash is extremely bright, the tube will turn itself off. This video shows what happens when you shoot with a bare muzzle.

If you're in a state which also restricts flash hiders on semiautos, linear compensators aren't too bad. It won't hide your signature, but it will prevent your NODs from being blown out. If you're using a clip on with an IR illuminator, you'll often find that the gas is a bigger problem than the flash, since it lingers in the illuminator beam for a few seconds, making it impossible to spot your shot. In this case, a muzzle brake which vents mostly to the sides is good, since it gets all the gas and flash out of the line of sight of your clip on. Again, this won't do anything to mask your signature.
 
Also worth reposting this from elsewhere I wrote it up, edited lightly for current context:

Long, long ago in a rifle class, the instructor had a little experiment at the end of the night shooting time, and we each, in turn, fired our guns while the others watched, to see how various muzzle devices worked. It was even ban period, before AR15s ruled the earth so other calibers and guns, weird muzzle devices, and bare muzzles.

Discounting the commercial spec ammo fireballs (we did some ammo trading to get solid results) almost all worked fine. The three prong early AR, and the later but very similar AR18 one, both worked as well as the A2 flash hider.

Same for similar designs in other guns like the G3 birdcage looking thing.

The worst most did, like some Smith brakes and the Daewoo DR200 (despite looking like a bird cage copy), had tiny, tiny cartoonish licks of flame out the ports. So small, we were all pretty sure they wouldn't give you away to downrange bad guys in real life unless very unlucky and fighting in caves, or something.

Older designs, like those on the M14, were pretty mediocre. Okay for not blinding the shooter, but not the rest of the fire team; notable visible flame from even standing next to them.


If you want to really optimize, lots of cool things out there that claim to be awesomer yet and are from reputable people:
  • SF Warcomp (also a suppressor mount, so could add a blast can IF suppressor mounts are legal in your state)
  • SF SOCOM flash hider, an open prong design, just a flash hider I think but look
  • BE Meyers 249F, though it is insanely expensive as you might expect, a variant on the open prong but they are very good at their jobs so reportedly it works well
  • Smith Vortex, 80s design but early open prong and the vortex bit means twisted prongs so supposedly even better, the gold standard from back then, and still good today
 
  • Like
Reactions: jb313
All the above plus, I used to run a 16" with a dedicated 4x scope (Gen III) in 5.56. Was using a standard A2 birdcage and never had the autogating kick in or shut down the NV. That length barrel allowed you to still view the target and what flash was visible dissipated so fast that you barely noticed it. The best I've used on SBR lengths are the Smith Vortex and the AAC Blackout both the suppressor mount and non suppressor mount versions. These and several others were compared from sides, down range, at different distances etc. including commercial loads that had plenty of fire! Lastly, I even compared the Noveske Flaming Pig which actually came in as a close second but the weight vs. performance in open areas was too much of a penalty. They did help throw the concussion forward and gave the report a deeper tonality compared to regular flash devices.

PWS FSC-556 has been the only brake/flash that met my needs with fairly good suppression. I use(d) the original model and recently tried to find one.... appears to have been discontinued with another generation released..... no experience on these.

My final determination on a non suppressed weapon was A2 on 14.5 or longer, the others mentioned if shorter barrels were being used. As for the tubes..... all are still working after many years of use with no noticable degradation.
 
  • Like
Reactions: shoobe01 and jb313
The unobtainable BE M249;)

The A2 is terrible on anything shorter than 18-20in barrel. It's cheap that's it.

Like it's been said the prone FHs are the best generally. Honestly they work better than a lot of cans, especially the shorter k cans.

Also ammo like full power M855/193 seem to create a good bit of flash compared to something like wolf gold or Speer 223 gold dots. So if you reload you can fine tune your load for night.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jb313
A lot depends on the ammo also. Had some Norma 5.56 that we bought cause it was cheap and compared to the Federal we normally shoot there was fireballs coming out of the same flash hider.

In general you want a device labeled a flash hider, not a "muzzle brake".
 
  • Like
Reactions: WhereNow&How
I use a 1-1/2" dia linear compensator in the prison state of NY.
Titanium 5/8-24 gill style brake threaded for a can and then use a 4" long titanium extension with a titanium blast chamber insert.
Besides being super lightweight , it does a great job at diminishing the blast and sound directed rearwards.
Also good for protecting the muzzle.
Only once was I around it with NODs when it was fired and it didn't give me any concern about damaging the tubes, but I haven't tested it thoroughly.
IMG_1442.JPG
 
Barrel length and caliber play a huge role. This one is labeled the “hate machine”. Surely guaranteed to blind you at night with a blast can on the end. Never shot it with my NV, but I’d bet money it would have messed with them
9D4E2823-3BC5-45B4-BFB2-D765B4A9B12D.jpeg
 
I am equipping a Colt 6943 for night shooting, 11.5 inch barrel, I will give the birdcage a whirl, but I would imagine I will be looking at a few other options that you guys posted up here,