Been looking for the perfect glass to put on my Predatobr 7.62 16 Inch. Looking for speed and accuracy obviously and was pulled towards Leupolds Mark 6 6-18 CMR-W reticle. Looks like its a pretty good set up but all I really have experience with is standard Mil-dot. Anyone running any on there set ups that can give me some good feedback?
Rifle Scopes Leupold Mark 6
- Thread starter Dj702
- Start date
I recommend splurging and getting the H58 version. I have a 1-6 CMR-W and I regret it because the bullet weights and velocities need to match up for the reticle to work correctly.
With the Horus, you can hold the right solution no matter the distance. It's fast.
With the Horus, you can hold the right solution no matter the distance. It's fast.
The CMR-W, like the TReMoR2, is a rapid engagement reticle, and is aimed at hitting 'smallish' targets with a first round hit. Don't expect to use the WindDots and BDC holds to first round hit 'X's on paper... that is not what this reticle is designed for. However if you are engaging steel plates from 1 target to another at different ranges in the same heading, the CMR-W is going to be super fast between the targets... and if you spot your first round hits, it will give you a Wind Speed reading for you to use for your follow up shots at different ranges without having to recalculate.
So... Don't throw it away just yet !
You can calibrate it to your bullet's ballistics very easily.
Grab this CMR-W calibration excel file I built a while ago.
Use JBM Ballistics online calculator and enter in all your bullet's details.
Step 1 - Base Spin Drift
- Set wind to 0, but turn on Spin Drift (the CMR-W takes Spin Drift into account).
- Set output to 1m intervals out to 1200m
- Turn ON - Windage correction for Zero Range
- Turn ON - Include Spin Drift
- Turn On - Ranges in Meters (sorry I live in a Metric country), and it's how I built the calculation.
- Once it produces the result copy and paste the data to a blank excel spreadsheet.
- From the copied data, copy out just the Windage(Col 1) and Windage(Col 2) columns to get your Spin Drift and Coriolis offset and paste it in starting at cell M83 down.
Step 2 - WindDot value
- Reset JBM by pressing back on your browser (this keeps your previous data inputs)
- Turn OFF - Include Spin Drift
- Turn OFF - Windage correction for Zero Range
- Set wind to +/-9mph @ 90 degrees and again generate the output.
- Copy and paste the whole output data to cell B45 down. (Just make sure it all aligns, or you might need to copy to a blank sheet and only take what you need).
You can then take a look at the graph and other offset fields to see how close you get your wind offset to the reticle.
Keep tweaking the wind (Step 2 above) in JPM and copying and pasting until they line up correctly.
Once they do, then that is your Elevation and WindDot value per dot.
- Remember that this is Density Altitude specific, and you should find out your density altitude where you live and create a range of DOPE cards for any condition that you might have. (see the density Altitude tabs and Graphs in the excel file).
Also note: My Excel sheet gets you very very close to the WindDots by interpolating a base WindDot speed. To be more accurate, you can run through the exercise for each WindDot to get them to align correctly... but that is overkill for what the reticle is designed for, and then you have to remember what speed each WindDot is, rather than a fixed value, which is probably more of a hassle than getting any more accuracy. (i.e. can you tell the difference between 10mph wind vs 10.1mph ?)
If on the otherhand you want to hit 'X's on paper and want to calculate your hold for every shot, then rather look at a constant interval stadia reticle like MilDot, H59, or any Christmas tree type reticle that you either hold for, or dial.
It all depends on what you want to do with your rifle.
Hope that helps.
So... Don't throw it away just yet !
You can calibrate it to your bullet's ballistics very easily.
Grab this CMR-W calibration excel file I built a while ago.
Use JBM Ballistics online calculator and enter in all your bullet's details.
Step 1 - Base Spin Drift
- Set wind to 0, but turn on Spin Drift (the CMR-W takes Spin Drift into account).
- Set output to 1m intervals out to 1200m
- Turn ON - Windage correction for Zero Range
- Turn ON - Include Spin Drift
- Turn On - Ranges in Meters (sorry I live in a Metric country), and it's how I built the calculation.
- Once it produces the result copy and paste the data to a blank excel spreadsheet.
- From the copied data, copy out just the Windage(Col 1) and Windage(Col 2) columns to get your Spin Drift and Coriolis offset and paste it in starting at cell M83 down.
Step 2 - WindDot value
- Reset JBM by pressing back on your browser (this keeps your previous data inputs)
- Turn OFF - Include Spin Drift
- Turn OFF - Windage correction for Zero Range
- Set wind to +/-9mph @ 90 degrees and again generate the output.
- Copy and paste the whole output data to cell B45 down. (Just make sure it all aligns, or you might need to copy to a blank sheet and only take what you need).
You can then take a look at the graph and other offset fields to see how close you get your wind offset to the reticle.
Keep tweaking the wind (Step 2 above) in JPM and copying and pasting until they line up correctly.
Once they do, then that is your Elevation and WindDot value per dot.
- Remember that this is Density Altitude specific, and you should find out your density altitude where you live and create a range of DOPE cards for any condition that you might have. (see the density Altitude tabs and Graphs in the excel file).
Also note: My Excel sheet gets you very very close to the WindDots by interpolating a base WindDot speed. To be more accurate, you can run through the exercise for each WindDot to get them to align correctly... but that is overkill for what the reticle is designed for, and then you have to remember what speed each WindDot is, rather than a fixed value, which is probably more of a hassle than getting any more accuracy. (i.e. can you tell the difference between 10mph wind vs 10.1mph ?)
If on the otherhand you want to hit 'X's on paper and want to calculate your hold for every shot, then rather look at a constant interval stadia reticle like MilDot, H59, or any Christmas tree type reticle that you either hold for, or dial.
It all depends on what you want to do with your rifle.
Hope that helps.
The upper 7.62 rifle has the L&S Mk6 3-18x H58 ... it is on LaRue 104 with Arm COLR in front.
Here is the "short list" from which I wound up selecting the above scope.
The key selection criteria was length. The select scope is 11.9 inches and just barely fits on the 7.62 with the CO-LR in front. There are no rails to spare.
I wanted a scope that I could use out to 1000yds on any of my rifles, day or night. I was able to get a good deal on the Hide and pick up the H58 reticle for less than the indicated TMR price. I'm not sure I like the H58 better, all my other reticles are TMR, but it does help determine the holds for followup shots if you can see the splash. It is very fine on 3 power, so I usually run it on 4 power.
Here is the "short list" from which I wound up selecting the above scope.
The key selection criteria was length. The select scope is 11.9 inches and just barely fits on the 7.62 with the CO-LR in front. There are no rails to spare.
I wanted a scope that I could use out to 1000yds on any of my rifles, day or night. I was able to get a good deal on the Hide and pick up the H58 reticle for less than the indicated TMR price. I'm not sure I like the H58 better, all my other reticles are TMR, but it does help determine the holds for followup shots if you can see the splash. It is very fine on 3 power, so I usually run it on 4 power.
I am really liking the tar reticle on my mark six.
