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Rifle Scopes Leveling scope tips and tricks

Petrov

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 3, 2009
521
297
40
Western NY
Hey guys. I will be using the weight on a string and US Optics (nonfolding) bubble level on a rail to level my rifle and scope.
How would I go about keeping the rifle level while twisting the scope to align the retricle with the string on a weight?
Any tips for keeping the scope level when I am tightening down the bolts? I always cant the retricle after aligning it when I start tightening the bolts.

The US optics bubble level, is that good enough to figure out how level the rifle is? It is a pretty small bubble and I kinda eye ball it close enough.
I have a vortex bubble level that goes on a scope but that wont help me level the rifle and keep it steady while i mess with the scope.
Thanks guys.

Oh also would getting a LARGE presentation/posters sized piece of white paper and using an angle to draw two perpendicular lines work ?(I will use a 4 foot level to make sure it is parallel) Or is the weight on a string more reliable method?

I am kinda forced to level my scope at work in a dark warehouse since my house is too small and I cant focus my retricle on a string.
 
I mount the level on the rail. Then loosely put the scope in the rings so it can be moved. Have your string or poster board in place and while the gun is on your bipod and rear bag you look alternately at the rail level and the reticle and check it for plumbness, (if that's a word!) it's pretty easy, plus you can set your scope eye relief at the same time. I usually use a torque wrench on the screws and take them down evenly and alternately crossing back and forth until you hit your final torque setting. Don't forget your eye relief may feel natural and perfect while on a bench and be different when going prone, check both ways before locking down.
 
one of my biggest problems is e knocking the rifle around to look through the scope and see the string and move the scope.
 
i just use feeler gauges and playing cards if needed, so far so good but I am sure there's a more technical and precise way.
 
I've tried the shim method and don't like it. End up dropping stuff all over trying to get it even. I have also seen rail levels not level to the rail, so in that case you have to match the mounted level to a plumbed reticle or you will be off or canted when you shoot. Probably won't bother you out to 500 but you get out to a grand it for sure will.
 
look up Lindy's how to optically check your scope. arcanemavens is your google search term.

Feeler guages for getting scope level with the rail and then Lindy's page for the rest if you're really serious about the whole thing. Lindy's pages should be required reading. What happened to him anyway?
 
look up Lindy's how to optically check your scope. arcanemavens is your google search term.

Feeler guages for getting scope level with the rail and then Lindy's page for the rest if you're really serious about the whole thing. Lindy's pages should be required reading. What happened to him anyway?

any links? just did a quick google and came up dry. Would really love to read up on this…
 
I use a Leupold Zero Point to align my vertical and run a box around the internal grid.

Its a cheap and pretty useful tool for alignments and checking zero's.
 
here's my fool proof way

scope jig 1.jpg
scope jig.jpg

I level this 60lb plus attraction out with a digital level then make sure the scope will track up/down on a plumb bob at 20 or so yards.
I have also rag taped from my long range rifle turrets to 100yds exactly and line up crosshairs on a board I made with 60moa's on it.
i found one of my NF scopes to be off substantially off 18" or so at 1000yds doing this and now my programs all account for clicks to be
as accurate as possible.
 
The tall target test mentioned in the above post is the end all test. Take a tall piece of poster board and draw a tall vertical line, I like to use at least 36", with a dot at the bottom. Set that target at 100yds with the line plumbed with a carpenters level or plumb bob. With your rifle zeroed at 100, shoot a group at the dot on the bottom of the line. Then dial 30 moa elevation on your scope turret and shoot another group. If the scope is level, and tracks true your group should be straight above your zero group on that line. Then go measure the distance between the two groups. If your scope tracks accurately you should have a gap damn close to 30" between the two groups. If it's off take note of the amount and create a correction value for future reference. You'd be surprised at the correction that may be needed on some very high end glass. Brian Litz has a good segment on his applied ballistics DVDs covering this process and how to properly use the correction value when dialing elevations for distance. Long winded but I hope it helps.