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Rifle Scopes Locktite or Anti-Seize

Re: Locktite or Anti-Seize

right, but what about checking tightness after the locktite has dried and the possibility of the tiny bolt heads breaking off on removal?
 
Re: Locktite or Anti-Seize

torque it down with a torque wrench. 15 INCH lbs. blue loctite can be removed without damage to the heads. red loctite requires heat. just make sure you read the label and get the removable version.
 
Re: Locktite or Anti-Seize

Personally I use neither, as I like to remount scopes and rings on occasion. IMHO, manufacturers torque specs have been more than adequate for holding scopes in rings and rings to bases. YMMV.
 
Re: Locktite or Anti-Seize

I just use some Militec 1 grease on the threads and torque them to spec. Never had any of my scopes or rails come loose. Not a fan of Loc-Tite in those areas. YMMV.
 
Re: Locktite or Anti-Seize

I am with Sawman on this.

Bases, use Loctite.

For rings, just make sure the screws are clean and have a thin coat of oil on them. Properly torqued (and checked on a regular basis), they do not need a thread locking agent. In fact, a locking agent works against you, because you can't reset the torques once they are 'locked' with an agent.

If you are worried about them moving, use a paint pen to put an index mark on them. If they move, you will see it instantly because the index marks won't line up.

And check your torques regularly!! Rings, bases and stock/chassis.

Cheers,

Sirhr
 
Re: Locktite or Anti-Seize

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: WRENCHHEAD</div><div class="ubbcode-body">loctite. you do know anti-seize is a lubricant right? </div></div>

Loctite when applied wet is a lubricant also.
 
Re: Locktite or Anti-Seize

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sirhrmechanic</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am with Sawman on this.

Bases, use Loctite.

For rings, just make sure the screws are clean and have a thin coat of oil on them. Properly torqued (and checked on a regular basis), they do not need a thread locking agent. In fact, a locking agent works against you, because you can't reset the torques once they are 'locked' with an agent.

If you are worried about them moving, use a paint pen to put an index mark on them. If they move, you will see it instantly because the index marks won't line up.

And check your torques regularly!! Rings, bases and stock/chassis.

Cheers,

Sirhr </div></div>
Thanks, this seems like a good approach.