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Rifle Scopes Loctite question

sanman232

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 18, 2009
3
0
Long Island, New York
Hello. I Finally took the next step in the "precision shooting" game. Was boning up on the fundamentals with a Savage Mark II .22 for several months. Wanted to step up to a larger calibre for more distance as i have clearly become hooked on this. I just purchased a Remington 700 XCR compact and a Nightforce NXS FFP scope. I have been reading many posts about proper scope mounting and various techniques. I am eager to mount and sight in my optic myself, the right way. I do not want to take it to a smith as i cannot trust he will take the time and get everything right. Plus I think learning this will help me down the road with any future builds. Anyway, i've read that i need to clean the receiver threads and screws first. Then use blue loctite on the base screws and under the base. Ok here's my questions: 1) which loctite is the right one for the job. I looked on Home Depot's website and there are so many types. I don't want to use the wrong one. Do they even carry the type i need?
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stor...catalogId=10053
Also, if i apply it under my base (as a moisture barrier/stabilizer) will this cause any harm to the finish of my receiver?
BTW, I will be using NF one piece 20 moa base and NF rings after i get this part squared away. Any positive advice on this will be greatly appreciated! Want to get everything right the first time. Thanks for reading.
 
Re: Loctite question

I use Blue loctite on the bases screws. Blue holds but can be easily removed when you want. Red holds much more permanently and will be a pain in the ass to get the screws out later if you want to remove the bases for any reason. Some of the bases come with aluminum screws and you can strip the screws if you uses red. Use Blue in my opinion.

Dont use the loctice under the bases. Just on the screws.
 
Re: Loctite question

The number for "blue" loctite is 243 and that's the right one to use for the base and ring cap screws. Not sure about putting it <span style="font-style: italic">under</span> the base as it's pretty thin stuff and it doesn't behave like a bedding compound which might be better suited for sealing the base and evening out possible irregularities between the mating surfaces of the receiver and base.
 
Re: Loctite question

I think you want loctite 242. I didn't see it on the home depot link you had, but I'm pretty sure they carry it. It is a thread locker. Don't get any adhesives or epoxies. There are other thread lockers that are permanent so make sure you get 242. I'm use to seeing it in a little red bottle and it's a blue liquid. I personally have never used it on a rifle. I can't say if it does or doesn't damage finishes.
 
Re: Loctite question

Thanks for the quick replies guys. I've read not to put it on the ring screws (as David S pointed out). Am i misinformed on this? As far as putting it under the base, just going off of what i've read, and have seen it stated before. Here's one example:
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2114719
Seems like overkill to me and will probably skip this as it may potentially harm my finish. Going to Home Depot in a little while to look for this stuff. Want to get the ball rollin' already. I appreciate all the replies. If anyone else would like to chime in, I'm all ears.
 
Re: Loctite question

I just checked Home Depots website. Loctite threadlocker .2 fl oz for about 6 bucks. As stated above- Blue 242 is what you want.
DavidS- here in the states 242 is the "basic" blue loctite.
 
Re: Loctite question

You may get away without securing the ring cap screws if you tighten them pretty hard, but I wouldn't go without loctite after I've seen them loosen up significantly after a couple hundred shots on an MR308. It's not too hard to remove either, just takes a little heat and some cleaning afterwards.

Edit: I'm using 243 (it's blue too
wink.gif
) and looking at the data sheets it seems to be quite a bit stronger than the 242. Probably better to stick to the latter as Paul recommended.
 
Re: Loctite question

I read up on this and the main difference between 242 (blue) and 243 (also blue) is that 243 is what loctite calls oil resistant.
That means the loctite will adhere as advertised through a small amount of oil contamination.
Our loctite rep said that there may be an issue with clamping values being compromised using 243 vs. 242. He is a shooter and he says if it is available to stick with 242 and clean up the area as usual with some alcohol or acetone and torque to manufacturers values.
Dave,
I remember when I was over there that some of the loctite we had here in the states was unobtainable there so maybe that is why your standard is 243.

Thanks,

Paul
 
Re: Loctite question

You guys rock! It doesn't come up on HD's website under "loctite" for some reason (although all their other products do). So I just put in "242" and it comes right up. As far as putting it on the rings, i'm still unsure about doing that. I don't want to over torque them down either and risk damaging the tube. Just dropped a lot of coin on it, so that worries me. Guess i'll torque 'em down to NF's specs, and if i have any problems in the future with loosening, i'll address it then. Still appreciate the info, and will keep that in mind, if I start seeing anything coming loose. After a long time of saving, I finally have all the parts here waiting to be assembled (then enjoyed) Really bent on getting it ALL right from jump street. Thanks for the input.
 
Re: Loctite question

If you're worried and want to be able to check the ring cap screws, just put a little spot of paint on every screw head at the same position (12 o'clock for example) with a white paint marker or something similar. That way you can check if the screws are coming loose or stay in place. Peace of mind at almost no cost.
wink.gif
 
Re: Loctite question

Loctite all screws. bed the base with an actual bedding compound. Blue loctite is not going to ruin anything and it's good insurance. Otherwise you'd better have VERY good rings and regularly torque them
 
Re: Loctite question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tackmaster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: just take your ass to home depot. get the blue shit, torque to specs. done
</div><div class="ubbcode-body"></div></div>

I think he said he was looking for positive advice.
</div></div>


That was both positive and correct. Boom........done.
 
Re: Loctite question

Does anyone know if Loctite application requires the use of the lubricated screw torque vs. the unlubricated value? Most larger fasteners require a 20-40% reduction in installation torques when lubricated. installing to lubed fasteners to unlubed torques causes thread distortion and potential failures.
 
Re: Loctite question

According to my information from loctite:
"Applied to threaded components before assembly, Loctite 242 has controlled lubricity for accurate clamp loads"

The small screws on rings just need to be cleaned and then torqued. There is not enough surface to worry about lubricated or unlubricated torque IMO. Not to mention we are only dealing with in lbs of torque.