Long Range AR500 Target build

Skyking

Skyking
Full Member
Minuteman
I have a lot of guys ask about my targets. So I was able to get more 3/8 AR500 plate yesterday. Built four more for some friends so I thought I would show you how I make them. They really work great for long range stuff. You can really see, and hear the hits. I keep thinking some of the big target company's will build something like it.

The plate end up being cut 24x24 inches. I normally like to make them wider then taller for those really windy days. The plate cost my $25.00 and the rest of the steel I have had around forever.

I start with 1/2 inch round bar. This AR500 plate came with a primer epoxy on it.
M1520003.jpg


Then I weld the bar onto the plate. Don't listen to the guys that say you cant weld AR. Been doing it for years with no problems whatsoever.
M1520005.jpg

M1520006.jpg


Then I take square tubing and do about a 30 degree cut. On two of the legs cut them about 1 1/2 inches shorter so that the A frame stands up straight.
M1520007.jpg

M1520008.jpg


Then drill a hole 1 inch hole. That way you can put a 3 inch piece of tubing and weld it in.
M1520009.jpg

M1520011.jpg


Now your ready to SEE THE SWING!!! HEAR THE PING!!!
M1520012.jpg

M1520013.jpg


I normally like to paint the legs black, and the plate white. Trace the bottom of a spray paint can on a piece of paper. Then cut out the hole. This way you have a template to paint a black dot. Then when you need to repaint the white. You can take the lid of the paint can and hold over your black dot and spray all the white.

Here is on the the newest member of the 1015 yard club's group.
2011-08-29093020.jpg


And the target in action.
<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/NWd1YYouuNQ&feature=channel_video_title"></param> <param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/NWd1YYouuNQ&feature=channel_video_title" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"> </embed></object>
 
Re: Long Range AR500 Target build

Looks good, fast setup and tear down without too much bulk.

I have a few targets that had been cut with a plasma cutter and a few that used a waterjet. The heat from welding softens the AR500 around the welds and edges if heat is used to cut, the waterjet cut targets are harder around the edges, other than that there is no reason you cant weld AR.

Nice work

Kirk R
 
Re: Long Range AR500 Target build

I would agree with Capt. the heat will cause a slight difference in hardness. Not really a big deal to be honest but it is there.

If the heat source is on the Steel for very little time there will be almost no chance.

It is the people that put heat on the same spot for 30 seconds. That is what causes the change in hardness!!
 
Re: Long Range AR500 Target build

Guys your heat effective zone is extremely small. And even if you were to hit the zone it will just slightly ding. It is not even close to what you guys are thinking.
 
Re: Long Range AR500 Target build

where do you get your steel? We have a semi-local steel shop that will sell me a product called "hardlock" or something like that.(there was alot of background noise) but they want almost $100 for a 2 ft square peice. I hope to find something a little cheaper.
 
Re: Long Range AR500 Target build

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: scottsnipe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Nice target!! What kind of spotter were you using? That sucker was crystal clear out to the 1000 yd. Very impressive!</div></div>

It was filmed with a panasonic hdc-tm700 camera with a 2.2x telephoto lens.



<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kentactic</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Looks pretty good. did he "dial" for that wind at 750 or just "hold" for that wind? ive never turned my windage knob except during zeroing. </div></div>


Yes we dail for wind every time.
 
Re: Long Range AR500 Target build

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: cfish36</div><div class="ubbcode-body">where do you get your steel? We have a semi-local steel shop that will sell me a product called "hardlock" or something like that.(there was alot of background noise) but they want almost $100 for a 2 ft square peice. I hope to find something a little cheaper. </div></div>

They were probably talking about "Hardox" which is a trademarked version of AR plate. It comes in a wide range of hardness and is definitely more expensive than regular AR. The shop I work at uses it by the railcar load because its formulation makes it especially good for bending and rolling. Most standard AR's will crack if they're bent with too tight of a radius or too many degrees. Even Hardox will crack if the alloy or heat treat aren't just right. We don't do any welding on AR, but the Hardox is supposed to be more forgiving than regular AR. With regular AR for a code weld you are supposed to preheat and post heat the material to specific temperatures for specific times or risk cracking as the weld cools. The heat affected zone is fairly small, depending on your welding process and skill as well as material thickness. Generally speaking the cracks are so small you won't see them unless you use dye penetrant or x-ray, but since this material is made for high wear/high stress applications those cracks propagate over time and parts start breaking before they should. Targets are fairly low stress applications compared to what this stuff is meant for.
 
just a quick add on here, alot of guys use conveyor belt, but I use fire hose and burn holes into it with red hot bolts. Surprisingly hard to melt a hole in firehose but I guess that it ought to fare well against heat ;) Just go down to your local FD and ask if they have any hose that is destined for the dumpster. No doubt they do. It'll be plenty good for our use!
 
Love the design. My only change I like to do to mine is to angle the legs out to keep them out away from misses. With your design it would be pretty easy, just drill your holes for your inserts at an angle.

And for the argument of welding ar steel. I studied metallurgy in college and I think if you were to use that target at 100yrds and hit close to the weld it would break or at least damage the area. At longer ranges you should see no damage. I use good old mild steel for mine. The closest one is at 300 yrds and I have never broken a weld or dented the steel. Mine mostly see my 6.5cm but the 500yd steel saw my 7mm ultra mag with no damage to the plate