Gunsmithing Looking for a Solid Model of a Ruger 10/22

[csdilligaf]

I am starting my scratch build 10/22. I want to do a 17-4 Stainless one with the barrel threaded in. I also want to fill in the gap between the picatinny rail and the old barrel clamp boss so I can add some lenth to the barrel tenon. I looked around and ask those who have threads on building them and can not come up with a solid model to start with. The model on cncgunsmithing.com is incomplete and comes in as sheets not solid and the one on grabcam.com seems to be locked so you can only view it not generate tool path or extract geometery. Does anyone have a good solid model to work with?

thanks
Chip
[email protected]

 

[SJshooter]

Re: Looking for a Solid Model of a Ruger 10/22

Hell yea! Great to see someone else trying the same thing.

I downloaded autodesk pro inventor since I get free student software. I originally tried to edit the one you're talking about on cncguns but I gave up.
Now, since I found several files with dimension, I started from scratch and am recreating a solid model. I would be glad to share it with you.

 

[Bluejazz]

Re: Looking for a Solid Model of a Ruger 10/22

Tag, interested in following the progress of this

 

[LRI]

Re: Looking for a Solid Model of a Ruger 10/22

This action isn't that difficult to model. If it were me I'd look at altering the "tang" a bit. Maybe cloverleaf it behind the trigger footprint a bit so that a guy could add a rear guard screw.

I made one years ago for my son and that was the biggest headache by far. The alternative of course is a bedding block that extends under the barrel with a pair of threaded holes for action screws.

If your heart is set on 17-4 I'd encourage you to buy material in the H1150 solution annealed condition. It'll machine really well (like awesome) so long as your tooling choice is appropriate. Be careful tapping holes as this stuff LOVES to work harden. I've made a small assortment of personally owned actions with it. (also rimfires coincidentally)

Good luck and have fun.

 

[TOP PREDATOR]

Re: Looking for a Solid Model of a Ruger 10/22

would these do for models or are you asking for drawing models?

https://www.volquartsen.com/products/887-replacement-receiver

http://www.tacticalsol.com/tshome/x-ring-custom-22lr-receiver

this is 17-4 SS, also allows for a threaded barrel http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/rec...-prod13793.aspx

http://www.moaguns.com/rec10_22.html

 

[LRI]

Re: Looking for a Solid Model of a Ruger 10/22

Had another idea:

Since your making this from scratch there's a little rimfire trick you might consider.

Machine your receiver ring threads to a size larger than you want and then make a differential threading insert. Stick a reverse cone breech on the barrel to eliminate the need for extractor cuts and you can fiddle with altering the clock position of the barrel w/o affecting the headspace.

That would be pretty cool to mess with.

 

[SJshooter]

Re: Looking for a Solid Model of a Ruger 10/22

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Maybe cloverleaf it behind the trigger footprint a bit so that a guy could add a rear guard screw.</div></div>
Not sure what you're suggesting here... Do you mean a modification that would attach the trigger group better to the receiver? Or a screw that would go from the inside of the receiver into the stock to hold it back and down?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> The alternative of course is a bedding block that extends under the barrel with a pair of threaded holes for action screws.
</div></div>
Would this bedding block be part of the receiver somehow? Would it be an integral part of the v-block if you were still planning to used the v-block design?

I dont really know, but wouldnt threading the barrel do away with the barrel droop problem so it wouldnt need the bedding block in front of action?

Thanks

 

[SJshooter]

Re: Looking for a Solid Model of a Ruger 10/22

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Machine your receiver ring threads to a size larger than you want and then make a differential threading insert</div></div>

Do you have a picture or drawing that would help explain this?

What I'm getting is that you would machine threads in receiver normal direction but large enough to fit reverse threaded barrel and a thread adapter of sorts over the barrel threads into the receiver. Huh?

I obviously have no experience in this sort of thing but it interests me quite a bit.

 

[SJshooter]

Re: Looking for a Solid Model of a Ruger 10/22

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I've made a small assortment of personally owned actions with it. (also rimfires coincidentally)
</div></div>

Are any of these said rifles bolt actions? How hard would it be to model a bolt action similar to the CZ455 with quick change change barrel capability? But one that you could use pre-existing factory barrels on without modification?

Also, anyone given thought to an amibi 10/22 receiver, right eject? I was thinking it would be pretty easy... just mill a slot in left side of receiver and draw up a double sided charging handle for the bolt.

 

[csdilligaf]

Re: Looking for a Solid Model of a Ruger 10/22

Well, Ive made some progress. Found the one on cncguns.com had most of the important things to get going and I redid the things that did not come through correct and then remodeled it. I will be filling in the area below the picatinny rail and the boss for the barrel clamp and reshapeing it. Then I will use more like a 1.5" barrel tenon and have a larger flat surface under the barrel to use to mount the front end with and then add in the rear tang to hold down that end. I will have these models in any stage you might want so please feel free to email me. I can export them in IGES or Parsolid for you.

 

[SJshooter]

Re: Looking for a Solid Model of a Ruger 10/22

Did you change the internal dimensions at all?

What width, height, and length did you use for the structure that holds the guide rod in the rear of the receiver?

 

[PCR]

Re: Looking for a Solid Model of a Ruger 10/22

A few years back I machined a 10/22 receiver from a piece of crs. I took a factory 10/22 bolt, trued and blueprinted it and built a 10/22 receiver around it. Threaded the receiver 3/4 X 16 tpi and chambered a Shilen Match barrel. Below is a link with a few pictures of the finished rifle.

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthre...083#Post2394083

 

[jrm850]

Re: Looking for a Solid Model of a Ruger 10/22

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: PCR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A few years back I machined a 10/22 receiver from a piece of crs. I took a factory 10/22 bolt, trued and blueprinted it and built a 10/22 receiver around it. Threaded the receiver 3/4 X 16 tpi and chambered a Shilen Match barrel. Below is a link with a few pictures of the finished rifle.

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthre...083#Post2394083 </div></div>

Good looking .22! The Neider butt plate never goes out of style.

How is the cold rolled holding up?

 

[PCR]

Re: Looking for a Solid Model of a Ruger 10/22

It's holding up great. No peening from the bolt coming back and the bluing is as good as the day I dipped it. I redesigned the receiver to be a lot more robust than Rugers.

The steel warped after every major cut so I snuck up on final dimensions. The picture below shows the point where I cut to finished inside dimension to get the bolt to run.

 

[Gorax]

Re: Looking for a Solid Model of a Ruger 10/22

Go and join www.grabcad.com.

There is a complete solid model of a 10/22 receiver on there. Trigger group and everything else too if you want it.

 

[LRI]

Re: Looking for a Solid Model of a Ruger 10/22

I received a PM asking for more clarification on differential threading and a revised tang. Here goes.

Differential threading allows a guy to effectively waive a magic wand over a barrel and change its clocking orientation without affecting the headspace.

It's a simple idea. You thread the receiver with a pitch of X and you machine an insert that'll marry up to it. Then you bore a hole through the insert and thread it in another pitch. We'll call it "Y". The mirror image of that thread is then machined onto the barrel tennon.

What this does is allow you to alter the start position of the lead thread on the insert. This will alter the clocking of the barrel because its threading into the insert. If the start position of the thread changes then it means the barrel will lock against the receiver in a different clock position. The shoulder of the barrel still purchases at the same distance so HS isn't changed.

The catch with rimfires is to make the breech so that the extractor/shell holder will work in any orientation. This is done with a reverse cone breech. The reduced pressures associated with a 22LR allow you to get away with this.


The cloverleaf tang is just a revision to the outside profile of the action. It's intended to get behind the trigger group so that a pillar/screw can be installed to support and locate the rear of the receiver.

If you want a more solid lockup of the trigger against the pins all you gotta do is drill/tap a small hole at the rear of the trigger guard where it normally slips just under the action. Then you can snug up the screw and it'll load the trigger housing against the pins and get rid of the "wiggles."