[Looking for Feedback] 22LR Long Range "Digital" Target

[Brett_N]

Hi Folks

Rather than a poll, I figured I'd start a discussion instead. I'm working on a cheap "YES/NO" target system for long range 22 shooting based on Arduino, some pressure sensors, and an LED. Will share everything open-domain once I build it, but....

And (I forgot your handle, but thank you in advance) there is already one out there based on the off-the-shelf stuff.

So, on with the idea.

2 "8 inch gongs that are either spring or rubber seperated. Front gong will have a hole cut in it, back gong will be solid. Back gong will have the electronics for registering impacts, and then have an LED light for "hit"

Idea is to start at 200 yards but be able to push out further than that, so the question is, to be fair, what size hole should I start with? Granted the whole idea is to be cheap and modular so you could swap say, a 2" hole in the front target for a 4" hole, just costs what, $20 for an 8" gong?

Idea is that a hit IN the hole would register the LED to turn on (and I'll make that on a relay, so pick whatever color you want) but a hit on the front gong would NOT register.

Will keep track of all the costs and software. Right now I'm just playing with cheap $8 arduino's and some ceramic sensors. May go to microphones but the ceramic sensors are dirt cheap and seem to work .

So

2" hole?
3" hole?
4" hole?

Or build all 3?

 

[SwatchDog]

I absolutely love the idea.
At our club, we shoot 22lr @50, 100, 200, & 300. At present we hang tennis balls @300 if the air is calm but many mid range rigs cannot connect with them. We don't want it to be an elite gun event only.

Your solution would be outstanding. After thinking about it (20 seconds) I think just an LED on the center hit is just fine, as we can already hear the hits on our plates @300. So the LED would simply award BULLSEYE! bonus points and create excitement while letting midrange rigs ring the 8" steel with some regularity.

How does the LED not get shot up?

 

[obx22]

Brilliant idea, I’m thinking two LEDs, green for a center hit, red for hit on the larger surface.
I personally prefer to think of rimfire in MOA terms with today’s level of accuracy, but who knows what the future holds?
Escutcheons like are used on field target animals to shrink the hit zone would work fine to adjust hole size, but I prefer the idea of separate targets.
As for LEDs getting damaged, we use a commercial offering on our steel that has clear “shoot-through” surfaces that reflect the light, while keeping the electronics behind the steel.
Negatives: lead splatter and what will it monkey with?

Here’s a low tech approach for our 300 yard soda can challenge practice from a couple years ago.
The can is steel, the backer heavy aluminum, both ring loud and at distinctly different pitch.