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Rifle Scopes lube screws for Spuhr SP-4001 ISMS?

kip.duff

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Minuteman
Mar 27, 2014
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Costa Mesa CA
After 45 years as mechanic, some of my worst battles were with sheared off screws that had been assembled into aluminum dry- and seized. ( I was always so impressed by how fast the previous mechanic had been able to complete the job- very impressive) On cars, used Lubro Moly paste- on petrol tankers, I use Permatex silver paste. Just got my Spuhr SP-4001 scope mount and am installing- after so many bad experiences, I don't want to assemble the screws dry. I plan to use "Dri Slide" thin spray with molybdenum I got at GM for my table saw gears.

Any thoughts? What do you use- if anything?
 
Also, I forgot to take note of the position of the ring caps. I'm pretty sure the cap with the extra threaded holes for accessories is the front one (marked "A41"). The cap I have installed at rear position is marked "A40". I have mounted these so they read right-side-up when viewing from the butt stock. Anyone know if this matters?
 
Also, I forgot to take note of the position of the ring caps. I'm pretty sure the cap with the extra threaded holes for accessories is the front one (marked "A41"). The cap I have installed at rear position is marked "A40". I have mounted these so they read right-side-up when viewing from the butt stock. Anyone know if this matters?
Just confirmed with Mile High Shooting that this is exactly the way they are supposed to go.....
 
So is there history of these coming loose?
Loctite is not a lube, but it would prevent seizing.......
Not if you use loctite...😉

When you come into snipershide with a rifle that won't group, the first question will be "did you check your mount?"

Torque the screws to spec and you'll never have a problem with them seizing- at least in my limited experience.
 
Not if you use loctite...😉

When you come into snipershide with a rifle that won't group, the first question will be "did you check your mount?"

Torque the screws to spec and you'll never have a problem with them seizing- at least in my limited experience.
Cool. One thing I haven't got yet- an in/lb driver. Lookin at Fix it Stix.
 
if i remember spuhr mounts come with waxed screws. check the website or manual
 
if i remember spuhr mounts come with waxed screws. check the website or manual
Right.... says so in the little paper sheet/manual in the box. Wax is normally not used on metal threads. I'm gonna contact Spuhr for more on this. They do mention that lubes are used- and that this affects the torque settings.....
 
Just ordered this........

It uses a ¼" square drive with female adapter to the accomodate the ¼" hex bits. So I can use my ¼" driver with the bits when I don't need to set a torque spec.
 

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Spuhr screws come treated with Gleitmo 627 dry lubricant film from the factory and do not need to be coated with anything unless you have used solvent on them.
Hope this helps.
 
Anodized aluminum doesn't have the same tendency to gall or seize that bare aluminum in auto components does.

I use a small drop of blue locktite in rings. Not to prevent galling/seizing but to keep things tight.

Many brands send screws with a small amount of dri-lok pre applied.

It's not intended to be a lubricant; it serves the same function as locktite but without changing the coefficient of friction as much. The idea is that it has less effect on the torque to clamp force ratio as a liquid.

 
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Gawd I hate the tread locker that magpul applies to all of their screws.
 
Spuhr screws come treated with Gleitmo 627 dry lubricant film from the factory and do not need to be coated with anything unless you have used solvent on them.
Hope this helps.
Spuhr does mention "wax". Another poster mentioned anodizing helps prevent seizing- hadn't thought of that.

To clarify, the horrible situations that I have experienced over the years are when a bolt has been in place in aluminum for 5 years or more. Made worse by presence of moisture. Also, the higher the torque/bolt-stretch/thread forces, makes seizures more likely. After using my Amazon in/lb driver right now, I see the torques are higher that I thought. Are a little scary for me- but good to know. Should get a second in/lb wrench just to verify.
 
Anodized aluminum doesn't have the same tendency to gall or seize that bare aluminum in auto components does.

I use a small drop of blue locktite in rings. Not to prevent galling/seizing but to keep things tight.

Many brands send screws with a small amount of dri-lok pre applied.

It's not intended to be a lubricant; it serves the same function as locktite but without changing the coefficient of friction as much. The idea is that it has less effect on the torque to clamp force ratio as a liquid.

Thanks.

"Loctite on rings"- do you mean on ring screws.... or mating surface between rings and scope tube?

The good thing about Loctite I believe is that it prevents seizing by sealing off area and blocking moisture/corrosion. I think it also provides a barrier that discourages the bond that can happen between steel and alu.
 
Thanks.

"Loctite on rings"- do you mean on ring screws.... or mating surface between rings and scope tube?

The good thing about Loctite I believe is that it prevents seizing by sealing off area and blocking moisture/corrosion. I think it also provides a barrier that discourages the bond that can happen between steel and alu.

Yes, I meant the screws.
 
Hi you mentioned you were a mechanic , I also worked my whole life as one and yes I have had severe galling on aluminum and steel threw the years and yes worse with moisture like say plow trucks or people who live on the ocean front , where it gets salt and seems to lock things up and rust out things ,
But with a scope mount like the Spuhr it is hi quality and the screws are coated , There is no need to do anything like lube or lock screws or hone rings for alignment , these are not cheap China built junk with cheap material , As fas as screw going or stripping , I remember in 1980s when screws were like slot head and yes using soft screws they sometime didnt want to come out , but with the allen fastners or torx things have evolved .
LOU
 
Hi you mentioned you were a mechanic , I also worked my whole life as one and yes I have had severe galling on aluminum and steel threw the years and yes worse with moisture like say plow trucks or people who live on the ocean front , where it gets salt and seems to lock things up and rust out things ,
But with a scope mount like the Spuhr it is hi quality and the screws are coated , There is no need to do anything like lube or lock screws or hone rings for alignment , these are not cheap China built junk with cheap material , As fas as screw going or stripping , I remember in 1980s when screws were like slot head and yes using soft screws they sometime didnt want to come out , but with the allen fastners or torx things have evolved .
LOU
Current job is working on aluminum tanker trucks that deliver gas to the stations- you're all seen them. Lots of condensation, heat, and cold on top where there's lots of stuff that needs maintenance. Alu junction boxes for electronic loading safety systems. If you don't use antiseize here, guaranteed seizure- sheared off bolts and ripped out threads.
 
Going to desert to try out my new NightForce ATACR 7 X 35 - 56mm Mil-C from Scopelist on my Sig SSG 3000 and Ruger Long Range Target 6.5CM!