First of all I'm new to the forum, so far looks like a ridiculous amount of knowledge on here! Second, I'm thinking of building a M-40 A5 clone, or at least a version that's close to as accurate. I'm wanting to build it piece by piece (limited budget), so what would everyone recommend? I'm thinking McMillan stock, Schneider Barrel, and that's about as far as I've gotten as of now idea wise.....what do you all recommend?
M-40 A5 Ideas, comments, help?
- Thread starter ajmilberg21
- Start date
Why are you wanting to do an A5 clone? I'd assume based on your question of what is recommended that you haven't shot a rifle like that very much. So if you've already decided you want a McMillan stock and a Schneider barrel, then have it screwed on a trued Remington 700 action, add the scope you want / can afford and shoot it.
The M40A5 adds a few things over a M40A3 that won't be of much value to a recreational shooter just starting out like the Night Vision Mount and the Surefire Muzzle Break, skip these and buy ammo to learn to shoot, they can be added later if you decide they are "needed." Do you need the action "clip slotted?" To make a clone, yes but not to make an accurate rifle. Save some money here too and get a standard rail for the action.
If you haven't bought anything yet, I'm a firm believer in the "buy once, cry once" idea, but you need to find out what you need first. So before you start buying anything, spend some time at the range and see what others have, ask their opinions and ask to get behind their rifles to see how things feel to you.
The M40A5 adds a few things over a M40A3 that won't be of much value to a recreational shooter just starting out like the Night Vision Mount and the Surefire Muzzle Break, skip these and buy ammo to learn to shoot, they can be added later if you decide they are "needed." Do you need the action "clip slotted?" To make a clone, yes but not to make an accurate rifle. Save some money here too and get a standard rail for the action.
If you haven't bought anything yet, I'm a firm believer in the "buy once, cry once" idea, but you need to find out what you need first. So before you start buying anything, spend some time at the range and see what others have, ask their opinions and ask to get behind their rifles to see how things feel to you.
Some very good points here. The M40A3 would be a better starting point, although you may want to add a DBM. Your best approach would be to just order an M40 from GAP.
Bear in mind that most find the McMillan A4 very awkward and uncomfortable for positional shooting. The large square forend is great for riding a bag or with a bipod but tends to be very rough on the hands, especially if you're hanging a 25" barrel of the end.
If it's Marine/ sentimental thing then go for it. Bear in mind that the Corps is moving to short barrel 308s (the XM3 was the first experiment with this) but even they have seen the validity of short barrels for non magnums
what are you wanting to do with it...please tell me you are planning on shooting it. What I mean by that, if your getting it to be that guy at the range to put it on the table and hold court, then buy something else. These 40s are like owning a real good birddog... it needs to be worked. Go do classes with it, go hunt with it. Please dont buy it to be a safe queen. As for the 40A3 to the 40A5, I prefer having a 20 inch barrel. I like it for hunting better then the longer tubes. Get what you love, shoot it, learn it and become proficient in your art.
Visit GA Precision's website if you haven't already done so and take note of the parts list. Then acquire them over time as your budget allows. Have the rifle assembled by a competent smith that has some experience with spec builds. GA Precision, Texas Brigade Armory, Celtic Rifles in Dallas come to mind but there are many other smiths (most of them are members on the hide) that can do similar quality work. As suggested above, the most effective way to do this is simply by having GA Precision do the build...I believe a minimum of $1000.00 down is required to get started.
Good input all, let me clarify first, I do have some rifle experience (Infantry Marine) but very little bolt action or sniper, other than some hunting rifles. I work at an indoor gun store/firing range, so I get hooked up with discounts, but not advice, as most the people who can afford LR rifles don't really ever shoot them, or have the first clue. What I'm wanting in not an exact M-40 A3/A5 replica, but accuracy-wise is what I'm concerned with. As for a build, its cheaper piece by piece for me. Eventually, I'm really hoping to do some 1,000yrd comps at a local range. As for experience, never shot, but played with the M-40 (a lot of my friends were SS guys) and I love the feel. So with that in mind, what do you all recommend?
Why not look to just get a s/h Remington 700 varmint in .308. Shoot it then as you have the money get the correct stock and get it bedded properly. Look then for a rebarrel and blueprint, paint job and in between all this pick up all the correct bases etc.
Aim for a certain year of build and don't skimp but don't rush.
The good thing about doing it this way is the rifle will grow with you as you fund certain bits as and when you have the money.
Also draw up a list and look out for the stuff s/h
So would the better route be to just get a cheap end 700 and piece by piece start switching stuff out? I'm honestly more concerned with being able to drop targets from 1,000yrds than have an exact replica, I just know I found the A3/A5 stock felt really good.
If you are serious about comps at 1k, and not just ringing steel then even a low end 700 action will need to be trued which means shop work, etc.. A lot of guys on here shoot steel with short barrels. That's fine. But if you are after 10's and x's on paper, trust me, all the other shooters will be using longer barrels. I've read on here where guys say they can stay supersonic at 1k with short barrels in .308. only the guy in the butts pulling your target knows for sure if your bullet is crossing the target supersonic. I tried 1k comps with a 308 ltr 20 inch several years ago. it didn't take long for me to realize that all I was getting was practice, lol. I now have a 29'' match broughton and am competitive. The bottom line is; the higher velocity keeps you down lower under the worst wind and gets your bullet to the target quicker than a short barrel will. All this means less element influence on your projectile. I have witnessed sergent, Emil Praslik,( I hope I spelled his name right) compete at a national match and placed respectively with a 20 incher. But were talking about an instructor for the Army Marksmanship unit. I can only wish I could shoot that well. Either way, it's what you are serious about, and if you want to be competitive, or just make noise and have fun!!! My .02 worth.
Yeah, barrels seem like a area highly debated. As of now, I'm leaning towards a Kreiger 24 or 26in.
First off Welcome.
Second, learn to search before starting a thread that has been started multiple times before. Upper right hand corner, typed in "M40A5 Build", and 5 seconds later, BOOM
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/showthread.php?t=1868
Good Stuff here. This the main M3/M5 one I believe. Used to have it bookmarked but the new system lost all my watched topics. Oh Well.
Good luck. This stuff will consume you.
PS, go with a 20" barrel.
Regards,
DT
Second, learn to search before starting a thread that has been started multiple times before. Upper right hand corner, typed in "M40A5 Build", and 5 seconds later, BOOM
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/showthread.php?t=1868
Good Stuff here. This the main M3/M5 one I believe. Used to have it bookmarked but the new system lost all my watched topics. Oh Well.
Good luck. This stuff will consume you.
PS, go with a 20" barrel.
Regards,
DT
First thing I did was a search for M40 A3/A5, but not quite what I was looking for, what I'm really trying to figure out is am I better off going for some sort of mutant M40 where I just get a 700 SPS, strip off what I don't want/like, and switch it out with what I do/what will increase my 1,000yrd accuracy? I prefer the A3 style, but I don't necessarily need a clone. And you recommend a 20" barrel, why that over a 24/26"? This seems to be one area where there's a lot of debate, so I'm trying to pull together the pro/con list...lol
http://www.tacticaloperations.com/SWATbarrel/
this a good article thats been floating around for awhile.
in regards to a longer barrel, thats fine and dandy if you are shooting F-Class or other benchrest disciplines. The reality is if you want tiny groups at 1000yds, there are other calibers better suited.
Also, for tactical/practical shooting, shorter barrels/less weight is mo betta and with 308 you are not losing a lot. If your nervous, get a 22" or 24" barrel or get a different cal.
I would reccomend getting a Stock Rem 5R and see if this disciplne/type of shooting is what you want to invest thousands of dollars in.
Good luck,
DT
this a good article thats been floating around for awhile.
in regards to a longer barrel, thats fine and dandy if you are shooting F-Class or other benchrest disciplines. The reality is if you want tiny groups at 1000yds, there are other calibers better suited.
Also, for tactical/practical shooting, shorter barrels/less weight is mo betta and with 308 you are not losing a lot. If your nervous, get a 22" or 24" barrel or get a different cal.
I would reccomend getting a Stock Rem 5R and see if this disciplne/type of shooting is what you want to invest thousands of dollars in.
Good luck,
DT
