M110 on a bolt gun?

[.300 Norma]

I'm open to pros/cons/opinions, but I want to put the M110 can on a bolt gun...like the MK13Mod5, but in .308 (probably), shorter barrel length, but have had no luck on finding the barrel measurements for the two-points of contact on the can. I have the can in hand. Any recommendations on what to do? Was thinking maybe pinning a small barrel collar for the latch gate and using the M100 FH, but would prefer latch gate to latch into barrel.

 

[nn8734]

Call LRI - they do mk13 builds (including mine) should be able to help.

ETA: you will need the m110 flash hider as well as the can mounts to it in addition to the gate latch on barrel cut outs

 

[.300 Norma]

Call LRI - they do mk13 builds (including mine) should be able to help.

ETA: you will need the m110 flash hider as well as the can mounts to it in addition to the gate latch on barrel cut outs

So the barrel cannot be contoured at the muzzle to fit the contact point inside the can? I believe I have seen a MK13 with the latch cuts on barrel, just not sure about the muzzle contour vs. FH approach? I'm a "less moving parts..." kinda guy.

 

[nn8734]

So the barrel cannot be contoured at the muzzle to fit the contact point inside the can? I believe I have seen a MK13 with the latch cuts on barrel, just not sure about the muzzle contour vs. FH approach? I'm a "less moving parts..." kinda guy.

No, it cannot.

The M110 can was designed to interface with the m110 flash hider. This is different from the mk11 mod 0 suppressor which was designed to interface with the barrel itself.

Eta: here’s an example

 

[schmi015]

Give RWS a call, he does clone builds, I believe that you need to send your can in because of variance, he'll cut your barrel for your can.

 

[longshot2000]

what @nn8734 said. It is very, very exacting. We make the M110 barrel for the M110 rifle, and the distances have to be precise. The Mk13 Mod5 did this with the Mk11 can. I have never seen or heard of anyone doing it with the M110 can, but the pic above is spot on. The can will need to lock to a true KAC M110 flash hider and then lock to grooves at 0.75" apart at the center of the elipse from each other, for the gate to come down upon the barrel.

The barrel smithing is excruciatingly precise, and if the barrel smith gets it wrong, the entire barrel is toast, and you have to start over, which is why most barrelsmiths will not do it, and those who will charge a fortune, as they have to bake in some probability of fucking up the barrel and starting over.