- Thread starter berms03
- Start date
I've seen them shoot close to moa in a good fitting walnut or birch stock, but my experience is you'll never know what the rifle's capable of without bedding it. A good one can shoot 1/2 moa. With iron, I am good for 1 moa in good light with a center mass hold, and slightly better with a 6 o'clock hold. My old match gun has been in 3 different stocks. (bedded). It can easily outshoot me with M-852 or the old Federal red box match. With the Swan A.R.M.S. scope mount and a good scope, I can scratch out 1/2 moa when I'm having a good day.
I use the old AMTU manual for bedding and "accurizing" a M-14, but modified the barrel preload spacer for heavy barrels. I prefer Brownell's SteelBed compound. Fill the holes and notches well with a good stiff clay. If you stick one, it'll tear up the stock. Over the years, I've shot Garands, M-1A's, FAL's, and a couple of 7.62 black guns. I still prefer the M1-A.
Good luck and good shooting
Tom
I use the old AMTU manual for bedding and "accurizing" a M-14, but modified the barrel preload spacer for heavy barrels. I prefer Brownell's SteelBed compound. Fill the holes and notches well with a good stiff clay. If you stick one, it'll tear up the stock. Over the years, I've shot Garands, M-1A's, FAL's, and a couple of 7.62 black guns. I still prefer the M1-A.
Good luck and good shooting
Tom
Yes it's worth it but it's also a pain in the ass. It is also a temporary solution as the bedding material 'wears out' and you will need to re-bed every so often, say 1000 rounds ballpark.
Unless you're in a very hot + humid environment it's not that big of a deal. Mcmillan stocks are definitely better though.
Also you will want to unitize the gas system. Look it up to see what I am talking about.
My final 2 cents is that if it's shooting 'good enough' right now don't mess with it.
The stock needs to be put in an oven and heated to remove all moisture, then they must be impregnated with an epoxy to prevent moisture from getting into and warping the stock.
The bedded. I use Brownells Accra gel mixed with nickel powder.
Once bedded there is NO REASON to remove the barreled action from the stock. There is nothing that needs cleaned an lubed on the M14/M1A that cannot be cleaned and lubed while the action is in the stock.
What causes bedding to go south (proper bedding that is) in excess removal of the barreled action from the stock. The only reason I remove mine is when I need to replace a shot out barrel. Then I may or may not have to touch up the bedding.
Anyway that's the way I do it, and it has been working since the late 70s after Jean Barnett (Barnett Barrels) first converted it to a Super Match.
The bedded. I use Brownells Accra gel mixed with nickel powder.
Once bedded there is NO REASON to remove the barreled action from the stock. There is nothing that needs cleaned an lubed on the M14/M1A that cannot be cleaned and lubed while the action is in the stock.
What causes bedding to go south (proper bedding that is) in excess removal of the barreled action from the stock. The only reason I remove mine is when I need to replace a shot out barrel. Then I may or may not have to touch up the bedding.
Anyway that's the way I do it, and it has been working since the late 70s after Jean Barnett (Barnett Barrels) first converted it to a Super Match.
Thanks! I live in Dallas where it gets pretty hot and humid. I've looked at the McMillan stocks, but I like the look of the walnut stock the best. Also, I've heard to use a wood sealer on the inside of the stock before bedding to prevent shrinkage and expansion, anyone try this? thoughts good idea? Any other ideas for upgrading my M1? Ill look into unitize gas system, I replaced the springs with SUPERIOR SHOOTING - M14 & M1A SEMI-AUTO CHROME SILICON RIFLE SPRINGS and added a Sadlak Op Rod. Who makes the best scope mount?
P.I.T.A. is right, worth it is also right. Don't know what the unitized gas system is about, but I'm out of touch. Last time at Perry was 1986. Clint Pyle was doing a big business on Commercial Row with lugged receivers. I never bought into it because my rifle was already better than I was.
Kraig, my barrel is a Barnett Douglas with ~3000 rds through it, but I shot out before it did. Helluva hog gun now.
Don't know how anyone else sees it, but I still unclamp it before storing it, but I don't pull the trigger group. Just release the clamping pressure. It settles down after 2-3 shots, so I know I haven't hurt the bedding.
I sealed the stocks inside and out with urethane spar varnish, including under the buttplate and stock iron. Never took it out of the stock unless it got too wet to leave it alone.
Berm, when I was shooting Service Rifle, all the top shooters had gone to McMillan stocks, but I was not a top shooter, and besides, the Mac's felt clammy on cold mornings so I stayed with wood stocks. On the scope mount, I like the Swan A.R.M.S. base without the throw-lever quick dismount. Just clamp the rings directly to the base.
I've never had a failure to fire, never had to shoot an alibi, never failed a trigger weigh-in, and never had to make a repair or change a single part on this rifle. I doubt the mouse guns can match that.
Tom
Kraig, my barrel is a Barnett Douglas with ~3000 rds through it, but I shot out before it did. Helluva hog gun now.
Don't know how anyone else sees it, but I still unclamp it before storing it, but I don't pull the trigger group. Just release the clamping pressure. It settles down after 2-3 shots, so I know I haven't hurt the bedding.
I sealed the stocks inside and out with urethane spar varnish, including under the buttplate and stock iron. Never took it out of the stock unless it got too wet to leave it alone.
Berm, when I was shooting Service Rifle, all the top shooters had gone to McMillan stocks, but I was not a top shooter, and besides, the Mac's felt clammy on cold mornings so I stayed with wood stocks. On the scope mount, I like the Swan A.R.M.S. base without the throw-lever quick dismount. Just clamp the rings directly to the base.
I've never had a failure to fire, never had to shoot an alibi, never failed a trigger weigh-in, and never had to make a repair or change a single part on this rifle. I doubt the mouse guns can match that.
Tom
BCP.... sounds like "unitizing the gas system" may mean attaching the front band to the back end of the gas cylinder? The AMTU manual gives instructions for gluing and screwing them together, but after seeing a couple of spindle valve ends blow off, I started tack welding the band to the gas cylinder top and bottom by heli-arcing with ER- 309 filler metal. The spindle valve will still work (against the rules), but I never got called out on it at a registered match.
Berm, from the accumulation of "sticky $hit" residue on Kraig's rifle, it was campaigned hard! Apparently being wood didn't hold it back either.
I expect the McMillan composite stock is around $500. A good heavy walnut heartwood stock can be found for $100 or so (if yours has sapwood in it). The MacBros have to be bedded too, so no advantage there.
Tom
Berm, from the accumulation of "sticky $hit" residue on Kraig's rifle, it was campaigned hard! Apparently being wood didn't hold it back either.
I expect the McMillan composite stock is around $500. A good heavy walnut heartwood stock can be found for $100 or so (if yours has sapwood in it). The MacBros have to be bedded too, so no advantage there.
Tom
I used Acra-Glass gel to bed my standard M1A walnut stock. If you use that product make sure you do it when its warm; I did it during the winter and my shop gets cool; overall the project turned out good but it was really difficult to work with. The rifle now shoots 1-1.5 MOA and was definitely worth it.
Thanks for all the replies. I came across this on the internet and probably will use this as good starting place. thoughts on this? Something I should do additionally or shouldn't do? Thoughts on the front of the receiver being bedded? Thanks
M1A Bedding Project
M1A Bedding Project
