M1A Rifle Questions

[81STFACP]

if you're chasing every last bit of accuracy out of an M1A a properly bedded stock (like a McMillan) with a rear lug receiver and torque screw, and the appropriate front ferrule tension built into the bedding job is still the way to go. The chassis systems are nice for sure but they all require some level of compromise to ensure they'll fit different receivers with varying external dimensions whereas a bedded stock provides the tightest and most repeatable fit with your receiver.

Also, the rebedding every 1000 rounds myth is just that IMO-- a myth, or maybe more likely a continuation of practices back in the 70's and 80's with the bedding compounds available at the time. With a rear lug for lots of surface area, a torque screw in the lug and a pillar in the stock to keep things from moving excessively, modern tough & durable bedding compounds, and provided you aren't taking the action in and out of the stock every week a bedding job can last well past 2500 rounds in an M1A.

Kiba,

Spot on. I campaign 3 different M1As, 2 double lugged and 1 rear lugged, that I cycle through, all in McMillan M1A stocks. The number 2 gun, a double lug, is on the 2nd barrel on the same bedding and still have not seen any degradation in the X count (that is when Asthma is not taking me for a spin) I used to shoot 6-8K rounds a year with the M1As, as far as scores in competition, I could not tell the difference between it and the ARs I still shoot. My M1As won their share of matches against black guns, including the Arkansas High Power Championship last year shooting against black guns, space guns, and bolt gunners

The number 1 hunting rifle for hogs and deer by the TexMex border is a LRB M25 bedded in a modified USGI fiberglass to accept an AR collapsible stock was built by JYWolfe of M14-Parts using a Criterion USGI contour barrel. It is a solid minute gun with a FA762SS. A minute to minute and half hunting rig will suffice for any game.

 

[NoExpert]

A scout or 18/18.5" setup can get you out to 700m. I've shot mine out to 800+ with decent results. It's not a bolt action, so I don't expect those kind of results, but I can hit an 18X24 plate consistently even using surplus ammo.

Seems like you know what you want and have fairly realistic expectations. Shop around, check out m14forum.com and keep an eye out for a deal.

 

[Sailormilan]

Tabby to answer your question, is not really easy. There is nothing really big wrong with the Norincos (same thing as a Polytech). There are some small issues, the biggest being the bolt. Which is actually blown out of proportion.
So having done a bit of Polytech research prior to getting my 3 Polys, here is what I can give you as far as information.
The Good:
Polys/Norincos have good, dimensionally correct receivers. Contrary to many reports, their receivers are made with the proper steel, and while not hardened quite as much as as USGI receivers, they are adequate. If you plan on scoping one, you will have a much easier time than doing the same to a Springfield M1A.
They have forged one piece op rods, and trigger housings. Chrome lined barrels and their barrels are considered to be good .
The Not So Good:
Some Polys have issues with these items. Not all, but some. Your rifle may have none of these issues, or all of them.
#1. Rear sight knobs can be soft. Easy fix. Replace with USGI knobs. Either M14 knobs (marked up to 10 and with an M) or Garand knobs (marked up to 12). My recommendation is to not use knobs marked WCE(except Garand knobs). All Chinese made knobs are marked WCE. You don't want to replace bad/soft Chinese made knobs with more Chinese made knobs.
#2. Hammer and trigger may be soft. Again, easy fix. Replace with USGI parts, either M14/M1A or Garand. Chinese triggers and hammer are unmarked. USGI parts are marked with part/drawing numbers.
#3. Op Rod spring may be a bit undersized. Easy fix. Replace with GI spec spring.
#4. Early stocks were made of Chinese Chu wood. Ugly, and soft. Easy fix. Replace with USGI. Some of the later stocks were walnut.
#5. The biggie. The bolt. Chinese bolts were made from the wrong alloy(primary problem), lugs were cut to the wrong profile(secondary problem), improperly heated treated, and the headspace was cut a bit long(similar to the US Navy 308 Garands the CMP is releasing). Nothing that will gaurantee longevity. Having said that, I don't believe that there has ever been a documented case of any kind of a bolt failure on a Polytech. Many, many owners shoot their Polys without one bit of headspace problems. My suggestion is to get a set of 7.62NATO headspace gauges and periodically check the headspace. Note also, Chinese bolts are unmarked on the top, while USGI bolts have a series of letters and numbers stamped into them. Who knows, you might actually get a Poly that has already had the bolt conversion done.
While the above list sounds expensive, it is not. With careful shopping, all the parts (save the bolt) can probably be had for less than $150. Since Springfields often cost upwards of $500+ more than a Polytech/Norinco you are often money ahead getting one of the Chinese rifles.
I have 3 Polys and have done all the above work to each one, whether they needed it or not. Though only one was having sight and trigger issues. I have had mine for better than 5 years. I actually had a Springfield M1A, and ended up selling it and going with the Polys.
As for the Springfields, they have their own issues, which often occur sporadically. They use a cast extractor which often breaks or disappears into orbit with in the first few hundred rounds. Often they come with a sticky chamber. Mine would not finish a 20 rd magazine with out one Failure To Extract. When I rebarreled my son's Polytech with a 18.5" Springfield Bush barrel and Springfield bolt, it was litterally every single round was stuck in the chamber. When we went back to the Chinese barrel and USGI bolt, all problems stopped. There have also been issues with the safety bridge. That is the part that cams the firing pin back just befoe the bolt rotates into position. This prevents slam fires.
additionally, SAI M1A receives are often out of spec on the exterior. Meaning, if you plan on scoping it, you may have a difficult, or impossible, scoping it or getting the scope to zero. The Chinese made rifles do not have this problem.
Now, SAI does have a lifetime warrenty on their guns, but there are people who have reported having to send their rifles back two and three times to get issues fixed. SAI has spotty Quality Control. I am quite happy with my 3 Polytechs, and while I haven't done any real accuracy testing, I do know they will work when I pull the trigger.
Here is my Polytech in its ProMag Archangel stock.

 

[SpookM14]

The M1A M14 variants were never designed to be tack drivers. They are designed for war, thus the designation Battle Rifle. In order to have this designation it has to stand up to the rigors of combat which if you ask any vet they will tell you its no sitting at the range and your gun doesnt go from the safe to the bench and back again. You have to give either accuracy for reliability or vise verse.
The M1A was designed to work no matter what. If you want a consistent Sub MOA rifle the M1A is not the gun for you. They are beautiful rifles and I am in love with them. I prefer them over ARs hands down and they are my primary SHTF weapon. I have been able to get around 1 MOA and the occasional Sub group with the right loads and if I do my part.
If you are really interested in the M1A platform then you have to know that the scope mounts out there are a total after thought. However the best mount that gets you the lowest is the Arms 18 mount. I have one on my McMillan M3A set up that is so low I had to remove the rear iron sight. If you buy a springfield you can send it back to them and they will mount an M25 mount on it which would be a great set up.
Check out the M14forum.com and they will tell you more what you need to know if you go down this path.
Best of luck

 

[ArmyJerry]

Pick up a worn piece of junk Springfield for as cheap as you ca get it, send it to the Springfield Custom shop and they will upgrade the rifle to a National Match for $478. My 10 year old rifle that I bought new 10 years ago for $1000 is there now, expect it back next week.

Details of the package

NM Med. Wt. .308 barrel, they sent the org. barrel back to me.
NM Windage Knob
NM Rear Sight Base, they kept the org. sights which were on the gun. They specified that they would do that as part of the deal.
NM Hooded Aperature
NM Bearing
NM Front sight .072
Unitized GC, Srewed and Glued
NM Trigger job

You can also jump on M14 forum and look for deals there.