- Thread starter DrDeath
- Start date
Re: M1As
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthre...475#Post2628475
Only difference between then and now is a 20 moa Sadlak scope rail.
Have shot it to 1000 yards with great success, the only ammo used being Hornady TAP 168 gr. Noticed in Sept that they were a little shaky when the temp dipped to 50 degrees.
After about 1000 rds this season and not cleaning the barrel a single time I tested the accuracy with 5 5 shot groups that averaged 1.05 moa.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthre...475#Post2628475
Only difference between then and now is a 20 moa Sadlak scope rail.
Have shot it to 1000 yards with great success, the only ammo used being Hornady TAP 168 gr. Noticed in Sept that they were a little shaky when the temp dipped to 50 degrees.
After about 1000 rds this season and not cleaning the barrel a single time I tested the accuracy with 5 5 shot groups that averaged 1.05 moa.
Re: M1As
M1A NM Left1 by Hillbilly Skeeter, on Flickr
I wouldnt call it a dedicated "precision" rifle, but the dang thing is ACCURATE. It's one MOA or under all day, with either Black Hills Gold 155 gr AMAX or 178 gr AMAX reloads. Still trying to tweak my 178 reloads, shows great promise. Need a better trigger man... but that'll come. All it has is a Sadlak Airborne Mount, Nikon 4x14, and Schuester Adj. Gas plug. Would love to dump some more dollars at it and see what happens, but for now it's shooting so well, I need to improve before it does.
150 gr sst 5 shot group 100 yards by Hillbilly Skeeter, on Flickr
M1A NM Left1 by Hillbilly Skeeter, on Flickr
I wouldnt call it a dedicated "precision" rifle, but the dang thing is ACCURATE. It's one MOA or under all day, with either Black Hills Gold 155 gr AMAX or 178 gr AMAX reloads. Still trying to tweak my 178 reloads, shows great promise. Need a better trigger man... but that'll come. All it has is a Sadlak Airborne Mount, Nikon 4x14, and Schuester Adj. Gas plug. Would love to dump some more dollars at it and see what happens, but for now it's shooting so well, I need to improve before it does.
150 gr sst 5 shot group 100 yards by Hillbilly Skeeter, on Flickr
Re: M1As
Stock is http://law483.com/
I held that one and a McMillan side by side and the Law483 stock felt better for me, although I like the thumb wheel adjustment on the McMillan better.
I'm considering a JAE Gen 3 this winter as an experiment.
Stock is http://law483.com/
I held that one and a McMillan side by side and the Law483 stock felt better for me, although I like the thumb wheel adjustment on the McMillan better.
I'm considering a JAE Gen 3 this winter as an experiment.
Re: M1As
I only shoot at 100 yards for cold bore shots and 6 shot groups for zero. Shoot at 24"x32" plates at 1000 yards, have shot it out to 1180 yards. No problems at longer distances.
100 yard 6 shot group, 175gr FGMM, prone with the bipod.
M21 with Nightforce 5.5-22x56 scope, Sadlak Titanium mount with Nightforce 1.123" rings, rest of the rifle is basically stock from the factory.
I only shoot at 100 yards for cold bore shots and 6 shot groups for zero. Shoot at 24"x32" plates at 1000 yards, have shot it out to 1180 yards. No problems at longer distances.
100 yard 6 shot group, 175gr FGMM, prone with the bipod.
M21 with Nightforce 5.5-22x56 scope, Sadlak Titanium mount with Nightforce 1.123" rings, rest of the rifle is basically stock from the factory.
Re: M1As
i did have my m1a mounted and scoped, but after all the money and time spend on getting it done. After two range trips i knew I had made a mistake.
I used the # 2006 mount
http://www.smithenterprise.com/products09.html
and #7002 rings:
http://www.smithenterprise.com/products08.html
because i didn't have a bipod and couldn't get a good cheekpiece I gave up and sold everything individually...
just my experience
i did have my m1a mounted and scoped, but after all the money and time spend on getting it done. After two range trips i knew I had made a mistake.
I used the # 2006 mount
http://www.smithenterprise.com/products09.html
and #7002 rings:
http://www.smithenterprise.com/products08.html
because i didn't have a bipod and couldn't get a good cheekpiece I gave up and sold everything individually...
just my experience
Re: M1As
I built a match prepped M1A more or less as an experiment to see how accurate one can get the platform.
Answer is very, but its going to cost more than a nice AR10, be a royal pain in the arse to scope, and you're going to spend more time and $ keeping it up than anything else. Spare parts are expensive, and you have to be careful - as a large number are no good. (Rewelded Demil parts, used past replacement, or fakes.)
If you still want one, you need a good barrel - Krieger or Rock, or if you can track down one of the elusive Obermeyer M14 barrels use it. Get it put on by a good M14 Smith. Have them unitize the gas system as well. For stocks, while a lot of folks use the EBR/JAE platforms with a lot of success, they're expensive and won't let you use the heavy profiled match barrels. The alternative is to get it bedded into a McMillan, which wont be cheap either. (I went the McMillan route)
Add in a set of lapped and fitted NM/2A Iron sights, a NM reamed FH, a new gas plug, NM Op rod spring guide, and a good trigger job on the FCG, and you're ready for the most frustrating part of the precision M14. Scoping it.
Short answer: Sadlak.
Long answer: Sadlak custom fitted.
I had issues with an SEI, and an Arms #18 before I went to the Sadlak. While it worked fine, by this time, I was rather fed up with it and sold it. (The upkeep was time consuming, cleaning ti was a pain, and keeping it greased without removing it from the stock was. . . interesting.)
Total investment was well north of $3k, and almost 2 years. While it shot like it had eyes, I just didn't want to get another parts supply and mag stash built up to support it.
Some pics:
\
Prone - with sling/Irons. Pulled Shot 2 cause my finger went numb (it was 20 degrees out. . . )
Would I do it again? Maybe. Would I pick the M14 over a precision AR10? No. The AR10 is easier to work on, cheaper to build, maintain, and upgrade. And the AR10 is a lot easier to scope. . . .
I built a match prepped M1A more or less as an experiment to see how accurate one can get the platform.
Answer is very, but its going to cost more than a nice AR10, be a royal pain in the arse to scope, and you're going to spend more time and $ keeping it up than anything else. Spare parts are expensive, and you have to be careful - as a large number are no good. (Rewelded Demil parts, used past replacement, or fakes.)
If you still want one, you need a good barrel - Krieger or Rock, or if you can track down one of the elusive Obermeyer M14 barrels use it. Get it put on by a good M14 Smith. Have them unitize the gas system as well. For stocks, while a lot of folks use the EBR/JAE platforms with a lot of success, they're expensive and won't let you use the heavy profiled match barrels. The alternative is to get it bedded into a McMillan, which wont be cheap either. (I went the McMillan route)
Add in a set of lapped and fitted NM/2A Iron sights, a NM reamed FH, a new gas plug, NM Op rod spring guide, and a good trigger job on the FCG, and you're ready for the most frustrating part of the precision M14. Scoping it.
Short answer: Sadlak.
Long answer: Sadlak custom fitted.
I had issues with an SEI, and an Arms #18 before I went to the Sadlak. While it worked fine, by this time, I was rather fed up with it and sold it. (The upkeep was time consuming, cleaning ti was a pain, and keeping it greased without removing it from the stock was. . . interesting.)
Total investment was well north of $3k, and almost 2 years. While it shot like it had eyes, I just didn't want to get another parts supply and mag stash built up to support it.
Some pics:
Prone - with sling/Irons. Pulled Shot 2 cause my finger went numb (it was 20 degrees out. . . )
Would I do it again? Maybe. Would I pick the M14 over a precision AR10? No. The AR10 is easier to work on, cheaper to build, maintain, and upgrade. And the AR10 is a lot easier to scope. . . .
Re: M1As
Here is mine. It wears a 1.8-10x37mm USO
Here is a 10 shot group I have on file at 300 yards with it. This was shot off a bipod, no support under the rear. 10x is no problem seeing this 6" shoot-n-c, but the heavy C2 reticle is kind of hard to get impact on top of impact at that range. The reticle isn't really a target reticle with thin lines. I maybe should have gone with a GAP reticle. Not the most stellar shooting that day, but good enough not to get laughed at too much.
I went .73" at 100 in 5 shots and followed it up with a second .86" group with just the irons fresh after building it with the iron sights off sand bags. Most AR's simply don't have the iron sights good enough to do that. The M1a does excel with it's irons. They got me by for a long time until I could afford the USO I have now.
Here is a 10 shot group I have on file at 300 yards with it. This was shot off a bipod, no support under the rear. 10x is no problem seeing this 6" shoot-n-c, but the heavy C2 reticle is kind of hard to get impact on top of impact at that range. The reticle isn't really a target reticle with thin lines. I maybe should have gone with a GAP reticle. Not the most stellar shooting that day, but good enough not to get laughed at too much.
I went .73" at 100 in 5 shots and followed it up with a second .86" group with just the irons fresh after building it with the iron sights off sand bags. Most AR's simply don't have the iron sights good enough to do that. The M1a does excel with it's irons. They got me by for a long time until I could afford the USO I have now.
Re: M1As
From one M1A aficionado to another, impressive. No standard M1A there. +1 There is no better iron sight/trigger combo on a battle rifle anywhere.
From one M1A aficionado to another, impressive. No standard M1A there. +1 There is no better iron sight/trigger combo on a battle rifle anywhere.
Re: M1As
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Krazny</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I built a match prepped M1A more or less as an experiment to see how accurate one can get the platform.
Answer is very, but its going to cost more than a nice AR10, be a royal pain in the arse to scope, and you're going to spend more time and $ keeping it up than anything else. Spare parts are expensive, and you have to be careful - as a large number are no good. (Rewelded Demil parts, used past replacement, or fakes.)
If you still want one, you need a good barrel - Krieger or Rock, or if you can track down one of the elusive Obermeyer M14 barrels use it. Get it put on by a good M14 Smith. Have them unitize the gas system as well. For stocks, while a lot of folks use the EBR/JAE platforms with a lot of success, they're expensive and won't let you use the heavy profiled match barrels. The alternative is to get it bedded into a McMillan, which wont be cheap either. (I went the McMillan route)
Add in a set of lapped and fitted NM/2A Iron sights, a NM reamed FH, a new gas plug, NM Op rod spring guide, and a good trigger job on the FCG, and you're ready for the most frustrating part of the precision M14. Scoping it.
Short answer: Sadlak.
Long answer: Sadlak custom fitted.
I had issues with an SEI, and an Arms #18 before I went to the Sadlak. While it worked fine, by this time, I was rather fed up with it and sold it. (The upkeep was time consuming, cleaning ti was a pain, and keeping it greased without removing it from the stock was. . . interesting.)
Total investment was well north of $3k, and almost 2 years. While it shot like it had eyes, I just didn't want to get another parts supply and mag stash built up to support it.
Would I do it again? Maybe. Would I pick the M14 over a precision AR10? No. The AR10 is easier to work on, cheaper to build, maintain, and upgrade. And the AR10 is a lot easier to scope. . . . </div></div>
You keep talking about "parts kits" and stuff just to maintain the rifle. But honestly what keeps wearing out on your rig that its so time consuming and expensive to shoot? The things dont have that many parts, and dont break down often at ALL. Not to mention you don't have to remove from stock to do a proper cleaning/greasing job. Goes back to the old mantra of work smarter no harder.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Krazny</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I built a match prepped M1A more or less as an experiment to see how accurate one can get the platform.
Answer is very, but its going to cost more than a nice AR10, be a royal pain in the arse to scope, and you're going to spend more time and $ keeping it up than anything else. Spare parts are expensive, and you have to be careful - as a large number are no good. (Rewelded Demil parts, used past replacement, or fakes.)
If you still want one, you need a good barrel - Krieger or Rock, or if you can track down one of the elusive Obermeyer M14 barrels use it. Get it put on by a good M14 Smith. Have them unitize the gas system as well. For stocks, while a lot of folks use the EBR/JAE platforms with a lot of success, they're expensive and won't let you use the heavy profiled match barrels. The alternative is to get it bedded into a McMillan, which wont be cheap either. (I went the McMillan route)
Add in a set of lapped and fitted NM/2A Iron sights, a NM reamed FH, a new gas plug, NM Op rod spring guide, and a good trigger job on the FCG, and you're ready for the most frustrating part of the precision M14. Scoping it.
Short answer: Sadlak.
Long answer: Sadlak custom fitted.
I had issues with an SEI, and an Arms #18 before I went to the Sadlak. While it worked fine, by this time, I was rather fed up with it and sold it. (The upkeep was time consuming, cleaning ti was a pain, and keeping it greased without removing it from the stock was. . . interesting.)
Total investment was well north of $3k, and almost 2 years. While it shot like it had eyes, I just didn't want to get another parts supply and mag stash built up to support it.
Would I do it again? Maybe. Would I pick the M14 over a precision AR10? No. The AR10 is easier to work on, cheaper to build, maintain, and upgrade. And the AR10 is a lot easier to scope. . . . </div></div>
You keep talking about "parts kits" and stuff just to maintain the rifle. But honestly what keeps wearing out on your rig that its so time consuming and expensive to shoot? The things dont have that many parts, and dont break down often at ALL. Not to mention you don't have to remove from stock to do a proper cleaning/greasing job. Goes back to the old mantra of work smarter no harder.
Re: M1As
SA NM M1A
JAE Gen II stock
Sadlack Mount
USO 1.8-10X
I've got 3/4 MOA at 600 with it. It has been extremely reliable and is one of the nicest shooting auto's I've ever owned. My only complaint is that I don't get to spend enough time behind it.
A few flyers aside, it is smokin' accurate...
SA NM M1A
JAE Gen II stock
Sadlack Mount
USO 1.8-10X
I've got 3/4 MOA at 600 with it. It has been extremely reliable and is one of the nicest shooting auto's I've ever owned. My only complaint is that I don't get to spend enough time behind it.
A few flyers aside, it is smokin' accurate...
Re: M1As
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Scouter19D</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
You keep talking about "parts kits" and stuff just to maintain the rifle. But honestly what keeps wearing out on your rig that its so time consuming and expensive to shoot? The things dont have that many parts, and dont break down often at ALL. Not to mention you don't have to remove from stock to do a proper cleaning/greasing job. Goes back to the old mantra of work smarter no harder. </div></div>
Forgive the delay, didn't see the response.
On an accurate M14 platform, particularly one that's been bedded, you can't remove the action from the stock. Breaks down the bedding and leads to accuracy reduction. The bedding wears out normally anyway, so it needs to be 'refreshed' every year or 2. (Fun fact, the 'rear lugged' and 'double-lugged' receivers were intended to help extend the bedding life.)
The other thing is that in order to pack grease in the roller bearing on the bolt, you need to remove the op rod. Can't remove the oprod (At least on the rifle I built.) without removing the stock. And let me tell you, its a right pain in the arse to replace a roller when you crack one. . . . (not the rifle in the pics, for a while I had an M14 checked out the the state Rifle Pistol Association from the CMP. NM TRW. Turned it in when the CMP recalled them all, and sent 'em off to Captain Crunch.)
Lastly, the gas cylinder is another problem area. Making sure you dont strip, stretch, cross thread, or otherwise muck up the gas plug so that it can be torqued properly is all kinda of fun. Particularly after its packed up with carbon from a weekend of shooting. Ensuring you have proper timing on the cylinder lock, watching for galling on the gas cylinder caused by the piston, etc, etc. This was a maddening affair, as you had to experiment with the torque, lock pressure, and different pistons to find the best combination for the best accuracy. And when shooting longer distances, you had to switch to a vented gas plug to protect the op rod from the heavier, hotter loads. Matching the correct vent size to ensure function just made matters worse.
And if something should go wrong, spares would have cost you. This was before SEI and LRB were making parts, and SAI's were known to have issues. With no other manufactures out there, you had to rely on surplus parts for replacements. And not only were there were a lot of parts with unknown backgrounds, but a bunch of rewelded parts, and a hell of a lot of fakes. . . .
Bolts were $200, and you have to have them lapped and fitted by someone who knows what they are doing. Op rods can bend, tabs wear out, and finding one that wasn't worn out or rewelded would've run you $250+. Flash hiders crack and fail from flame cutting, there's another $90+ right there. If your cylinder galls, gets cross threaded, or the threads get damaged, you were looking at $125, plus a piston. (usually the piston was the reason for the galling in the first place due to a scratch, knick, or defect on the piston.) As a match shooter, I learned pretty damn quick that Murphy was an optimist, and to always have a spare handy. With the M14, its was, and to some extent, still is, an expensive undertaking.
I grew up shooting the M14 platform. Used one, (that State RPA CMP Loaner) for many years shooting 8,9, and 1000 yards, and occasionally across the course. (2-600, service rifle) I've broken extractors, firing pins, and other 'normal' issues. (The 30-06 trick is a good one to know while on an active firing line to swap out the extractor in a hurry.) Even had a FH fail from flame cutting DURING a match. (Went from holding the 9 Ring to keyholing outside the 5. . . )
Don't get me wrong, its a neat platform, but it is NOT one I'd seriously consider for long term precision use. Especially when it comes to scoping and maintaining it. Any other gasser will be as/more accurate for a lot less money, and far less of a headache. . . .
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Scouter19D</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
You keep talking about "parts kits" and stuff just to maintain the rifle. But honestly what keeps wearing out on your rig that its so time consuming and expensive to shoot? The things dont have that many parts, and dont break down often at ALL. Not to mention you don't have to remove from stock to do a proper cleaning/greasing job. Goes back to the old mantra of work smarter no harder. </div></div>
Forgive the delay, didn't see the response.
On an accurate M14 platform, particularly one that's been bedded, you can't remove the action from the stock. Breaks down the bedding and leads to accuracy reduction. The bedding wears out normally anyway, so it needs to be 'refreshed' every year or 2. (Fun fact, the 'rear lugged' and 'double-lugged' receivers were intended to help extend the bedding life.)
The other thing is that in order to pack grease in the roller bearing on the bolt, you need to remove the op rod. Can't remove the oprod (At least on the rifle I built.) without removing the stock. And let me tell you, its a right pain in the arse to replace a roller when you crack one. . . . (not the rifle in the pics, for a while I had an M14 checked out the the state Rifle Pistol Association from the CMP. NM TRW. Turned it in when the CMP recalled them all, and sent 'em off to Captain Crunch.)
Lastly, the gas cylinder is another problem area. Making sure you dont strip, stretch, cross thread, or otherwise muck up the gas plug so that it can be torqued properly is all kinda of fun. Particularly after its packed up with carbon from a weekend of shooting. Ensuring you have proper timing on the cylinder lock, watching for galling on the gas cylinder caused by the piston, etc, etc. This was a maddening affair, as you had to experiment with the torque, lock pressure, and different pistons to find the best combination for the best accuracy. And when shooting longer distances, you had to switch to a vented gas plug to protect the op rod from the heavier, hotter loads. Matching the correct vent size to ensure function just made matters worse.
And if something should go wrong, spares would have cost you. This was before SEI and LRB were making parts, and SAI's were known to have issues. With no other manufactures out there, you had to rely on surplus parts for replacements. And not only were there were a lot of parts with unknown backgrounds, but a bunch of rewelded parts, and a hell of a lot of fakes. . . .
Bolts were $200, and you have to have them lapped and fitted by someone who knows what they are doing. Op rods can bend, tabs wear out, and finding one that wasn't worn out or rewelded would've run you $250+. Flash hiders crack and fail from flame cutting, there's another $90+ right there. If your cylinder galls, gets cross threaded, or the threads get damaged, you were looking at $125, plus a piston. (usually the piston was the reason for the galling in the first place due to a scratch, knick, or defect on the piston.) As a match shooter, I learned pretty damn quick that Murphy was an optimist, and to always have a spare handy. With the M14, its was, and to some extent, still is, an expensive undertaking.
I grew up shooting the M14 platform. Used one, (that State RPA CMP Loaner) for many years shooting 8,9, and 1000 yards, and occasionally across the course. (2-600, service rifle) I've broken extractors, firing pins, and other 'normal' issues. (The 30-06 trick is a good one to know while on an active firing line to swap out the extractor in a hurry.) Even had a FH fail from flame cutting DURING a match. (Went from holding the 9 Ring to keyholing outside the 5. . . )
Don't get me wrong, its a neat platform, but it is NOT one I'd seriously consider for long term precision use. Especially when it comes to scoping and maintaining it. Any other gasser will be as/more accurate for a lot less money, and far less of a headache. . . .
Re: M1As
Dangit... That's enough to make me never take mine back out of the safe! Hahaha seriously. Had no idea that there was so much to go wrong on such a proven platform. Definitely making me rething dropping any more cash into it. But it's almost an addiction. Especially after this past weekend, hittin a 2-liter at close to 500 yards is a freakin awesome feeling. Especially when you finally find a reload that the stupid rifle actually likes. You're right though, now there's so many more options for parts, while they're still expensive, I have to believe the cost is worth the fun. Hell, I'm lookin at buying another one. Definitely won't be bedding one... it is a battle rifle after all. And when it can hold MOA or better now (1.23" at 200 yards) why bother? Thanks for the reply man. Got some stuff to look out for now.
Dangit... That's enough to make me never take mine back out of the safe! Hahaha seriously. Had no idea that there was so much to go wrong on such a proven platform. Definitely making me rething dropping any more cash into it. But it's almost an addiction. Especially after this past weekend, hittin a 2-liter at close to 500 yards is a freakin awesome feeling. Especially when you finally find a reload that the stupid rifle actually likes. You're right though, now there's so many more options for parts, while they're still expensive, I have to believe the cost is worth the fun. Hell, I'm lookin at buying another one. Definitely won't be bedding one... it is a battle rifle after all. And when it can hold MOA or better now (1.23" at 200 yards) why bother? Thanks for the reply man. Got some stuff to look out for now.
Re: M1As
3 is the minimum you can own. Bedding will last a long time if you take care of it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Scouter19D</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Dangit... That's enough to make me never take mine back out of the safe! Hahaha seriously. Had no idea that there was so much to go wrong on such a proven platform. Definitely making me rething dropping any more cash into it. But it's almost an addiction. Especially after this past weekend, hittin a 2-liter at close to 500 yards is a freakin awesome feeling. Especially when you finally find a reload that the stupid rifle actually likes. You're right though, now there's so many more options for parts, while they're still expensive, I have to believe the cost is worth the fun. Hell, I'm lookin at buying another one. Definitely won't be bedding one... it is a battle rifle after all. And when it can hold MOA or better now (1.23" at 200 yards) why bother? Thanks for the reply man. Got some stuff to look out for now. </div></div>
3 is the minimum you can own. Bedding will last a long time if you take care of it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Scouter19D</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Dangit... That's enough to make me never take mine back out of the safe! Hahaha seriously. Had no idea that there was so much to go wrong on such a proven platform. Definitely making me rething dropping any more cash into it. But it's almost an addiction. Especially after this past weekend, hittin a 2-liter at close to 500 yards is a freakin awesome feeling. Especially when you finally find a reload that the stupid rifle actually likes. You're right though, now there's so many more options for parts, while they're still expensive, I have to believe the cost is worth the fun. Hell, I'm lookin at buying another one. Definitely won't be bedding one... it is a battle rifle after all. And when it can hold MOA or better now (1.23" at 200 yards) why bother? Thanks for the reply man. Got some stuff to look out for now. </div></div>
Re: M1As
I shot 1.5-2.5k rounds a year out of the CMP gun, and a lot less for the M1A in the pictures. Every weekend during the summers for high power.
Honestly, if you like the M1A, go for it. But be aware, if you want an accurate gasser, you can do better for less, and a heck of a lot less hassle.
Thats why I've picked up an OBR.
I shot 1.5-2.5k rounds a year out of the CMP gun, and a lot less for the M1A in the pictures. Every weekend during the summers for high power.
Honestly, if you like the M1A, go for it. But be aware, if you want an accurate gasser, you can do better for less, and a heck of a lot less hassle.
Thats why I've picked up an OBR.
Re: M1As
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BattleAxe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">SA NM M1A
JAE Gen II stock
Sadlack Mount
USO 1.8-10X
I've got 3/4 MOA at 600 with it. It has been extremely reliable and is one of the nicest shooting auto's I've ever owned. My only complaint is that I don't get to spend enough time behind it.
A few flyers aside, it is smokin' accurate...
</div></div>
Beautiful M1A Battleaxe! Nicely outfitted, great gun. I have a similar set up, that's the base of my appreciation.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BattleAxe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">SA NM M1A
JAE Gen II stock
Sadlack Mount
USO 1.8-10X
I've got 3/4 MOA at 600 with it. It has been extremely reliable and is one of the nicest shooting auto's I've ever owned. My only complaint is that I don't get to spend enough time behind it.
A few flyers aside, it is smokin' accurate...
Beautiful M1A Battleaxe! Nicely outfitted, great gun. I have a similar set up, that's the base of my appreciation.
Re: M1As
Thanks Newtrick. She had just turned 20 yrd old when I gave her a makeover and its been a very reliable and accurate platform. I'm fortunate to be in a position to own some high speed kit but if I ever had to clear the safe for financial reasons it would be the hardest weapon to part with by a wide margin. It was an old rack grade M14 that introduced me to rifle shooting in the Navy and I've loved these things ever since. I'd have 10 more in every conceivable configuration if I could.
Thanks Newtrick. She had just turned 20 yrd old when I gave her a makeover and its been a very reliable and accurate platform. I'm fortunate to be in a position to own some high speed kit but if I ever had to clear the safe for financial reasons it would be the hardest weapon to part with by a wide margin. It was an old rack grade M14 that introduced me to rifle shooting in the Navy and I've loved these things ever since. I'd have 10 more in every conceivable configuration if I could.
Similar threads
