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Gunsmithing Machining a Bedding Block for a Tikka M590

BrianLara400

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 6, 2012
73
1
AUSTRALIA
Hi Everyone,
I'm machining an aluminium block on which to bed a Tikka M590, and I'd just like a bit of input as to which area's it should be bearing on etc. I've posted a sketch, indicating the areas's which I think should be and a bit of my reasoning behind this but again I'm obviously open to suggestion's.

The M590 action from what I can gather is a forebear to the current production Tikka T3, and visually from the topside the two look very similar, However I've the feeling that the 590 has a smaller loading/ejection port. As for the underside I can't comment as I've not seen the bedding arrangment of a T3, but now they run an insertable recoil lug.

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This will be an ongoing project: initialy the aim is to get it setup to the point that the viability of the used barrel can be tested. If I feel that the action lacks a sufficient bearing area, I'll unscrew the barrel and machine a reduced shoulder on which to sandwich a meaningfull recoil lug, a la Omark, M80 Angel etc.

Should the barrel prove too worn to group acceptably I may shorten it @ the chamber end by a little, cut and thread a new tennon and recut the chamber to move it closer to sharper lands (currently 30" of barrel).
If after this it still doesnt perform as intended I'll discard then procure a new barrel.

At the momment it's in .308 palma, I may look to go 6.5x284 or similar. Once I know what cambering will be proceeded with I can then look at magazine options (for the testing stages it will only have a shallow loading block sitting on top of the main aluminium billet).

tikkam590beddinghatch00.jpg


RED AREAS DENOTE BEARING SURFACES

-FRONT ACTION SCREW-
Counter-bore the top of the hole for the action screw aiming for a 1:1 fit, over the button on underside of action. Perhaps by .015” relieve the front side of the counter-bore (between the action screw hole and slot for the new recoil lug. Ensure the boss/button bears evenly on the bottom of the counter-bore & horizontal surfaces surrounding it. Sandwiched recoil lug would be set to come into engagement, at the same instant as the button around the action screw does.

-MID SECTION-
Generously relieve the horizontal surfaces around the proposed magazine well. “Clearance is clearance”, but to make taking the cut worthwhile it might as well be .060” (1.5mm) in depth.

-REAR ACTION SCREW-
Apparently it is a massive mistake to have a Mauser styled front locking action, bearing recoil forces around the rear of the action (throwing shot’s), so accordingly I would run massive clearance on any semi-vertical surfaces in this area (you will notice the side walls of the protrusion on which the trigger assembly sits, has a draw/ taper angle to it). The flat horizontal surfaces of the rear area & the top of the protrusion (into which the action screw is tapped), are set so as they will be drawn into engagement at the same instant. Everywhere else will have generous full float i.e in the slot around where the trigger mech body will be.

I'm sure the way Tikka intended should be good enough*, however I suppose I cringe alittle looking at the size of that front round recoil lug. If I happen to machine all this and find that it doesnt shoot as intended (at which point I wont know if it's the fault of the barrel, bedding or operator) and to have to mess around set the bedding block up in the milling machine again etc, I just feel perhaps that I would be best done from the outset.

For mauser derivatives I thought it common practise to have the flat areas most of the way between the action screw relieved? could be wrong, but again open to suggestion.

*Tikka have subsequently gone to the inclusion of a recoil lug (or much larger one) in their T3's etc.
 
Re: Machining a Bedding Block for a Tikka M590

Get rid of that rear contact section, the one that's solid red. That will make your life easier.

Also, if you use a Rem style lug, cut plenty of clearance around the current round recoil nub so it doesn't touch anything, that will also make your life easier.

We've already looked at making a stock for the 595/695. You're going to have an issue with magazines. Since it's a one-off you can work something out. Pick up an AI AE mag and go from there, unless you want to do a lot of milling on the action for an AICS mag.

Good luck and post your results,
Justin
 
Re: Machining a Bedding Block for a Tikka M590

why not machine up a top hat shaped pillar for the front stud and use that as a recoil lug and bed the underside of the action in the conventional manner? Worked for me on a 595 action.
 
Re: Machining a Bedding Block for a Tikka M590

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Massoud</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Pick up an AI AE mag and go from there, unless you want to do a lot of milling on the action for an AICS mag.

Good luck and post your results,
Justin </div></div>
Hi Justin,
I had pretty much allready narrowed the Mag selection down to the single stack, single feeding AE mk1.
Because of the stiffening web along the top of the m590 action and small ejection port out the side, top loading was out - due to this the AW series didn't hold any appeal for me and being decently wide as is the AICS, my feeling is that it may not fit the underside without significant work. The lugs on the bolt are also the wrong configuration to feed from the AW.
I was going to hold off on final selection of a Mag, until I knew which calibre I would settle on - Too ensure I chould work with VLD's
Do you happen to have rough external length & width dimensions for the AE mags?, Trawled the net and only found measurements for the AW&AICS.

On reflection I will likely ommit the solid red section bearing right @ the rear action screw, as suggested.
 
Re: Machining a Bedding Block for a Tikka M590

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tin Basher</div><div class="ubbcode-body">why not machine up a top hat shaped pillar for the front stud and use that as a recoil lug and bed the underside of the action in the conventional manner? Worked for me on a 595 action. </div></div>

I did consider something like this (i.e sweating something more substantial over the front stud/button), and could still potentially go with this - my only objection was I suppose permanently modifying the action (but not a big thing, my predecessor has allready discarded the safety mech).
And by conventional manner do you mean, full support right along action rails etc?

Thanks again for the info fella's.
 
Re: Machining a Bedding Block for a Tikka M590

Hi Folk's,

A massive thanks must go out to GregT for his masterfull Sako 85 AICS post, of which my efforts are an unashamed and blatant ripp-off.

These are some progress photo's of this project.
Currently waiting on a buttpad and a few things, so progress has stalled slightly.
I'm looking to machine up a Omark/Remington etc sandwich style recoil lug and possibly a scope mount (35mm ADI modular rings, Sako dovetail) for this over the next few days.

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After alot of thought, I have diverged slighty from the areas I was going to bed.
Once I have evaluated the barrel in it and settled on a calibre I will then look @ mag options and will complete the rest of the machining on the bedding block at that point.



And Yes, in-case anyone is wondering the tailstock was initially installed upside down ....good times, had to re-check my set-up again.
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Re: Machining a Bedding Block for a Tikka M590

What brand of mill is that? It looks similar to a Deckel.
 
Re: Machining a Bedding Block for a Tikka M590

Hi RAD, you've got a good eye - the little mill is a Riken RMT-2, a Japanese clone of the venerable Deckel FP-1. 1966 manufacture, got most of the original accesories, vertical head, slotting head, universal table, a few of the punch milling fixtures, overarms, arbours, collets etc
It's not got a massive capacity (found ways around in most cases), but hugely versatile - an endearing little machine.


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The 17mm (nominal) Sako dovetail, in what will become the scope rail for the project.
 
Re: Machining a Bedding Block for a Tikka M590

This is how the scope mount is shaping up @ present

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Tonight I've turned up the locking handles, cross drilled the base and milled the recesses that the SS claws fit into,
so thus it is useable in this condition. At some point I'll rework a few aesthetic things, de-burr and integrate a spirit level bubble into it somewhere on the mount, but for now i'll be happy enough to start looking at the barrell work aspect of this project.

I wont know for sure until I use, but the whole assembly seems very rigid - and the fit of the AD rings to the ribb & in turn the base to the dovetail is rock solid.