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Magnetospeeed V2 setup

W

woodland-ghost

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 14, 2012
166
1
35
Tennessee
Having trouble setting it up on my rifle with a big brake...

In the first pic I have the strap is just behind the bayo but the bayo is right in front of the brake (still few inches from actual muzzle???) and bayo also just barely touches the bottom of the brake.

2nd pic I have to put the strap on the actual brake and use the smallest spacer and pad to keep it level.

Which one is good or would work? Or better ideas


 
Just my 2 cents...According to the manual, the first picture with the brake so close to the bayo sensor would be a NO-GO. However, I think you can make the other setup work...just check, double check, triple check the alignment with the bore along the entire length of the bayo (use a cleaning rod or dowel rod). You don't want to skip bullets off the sensor deck if it's at a slight angle. Also, make sure it is super tight on there if there isn't 100% contact with the v-block. I'd also keep a close eye on the strap...don't want the gas from the brake cutting into the strap, but it looks like you're ok if it doesn't shift forward.

I have a similar issue with a Rat Worx Big Chubby brake on my 308. The mounting is nothing short of sketchy, but it works. I think you have even more contact with the v-block than I do, so you should be able to make it work. Also, try using the extra rubber pad on the top of the brake to give you extra grip. That way you have 2 points of contact with rubber under the strap. Less likely to slide off under recoil, although you should be fine without it too.
 
It isn't going to work with either of those. Ask me how i know :)

Looks like you have a savage 338LM?

I'm just waiting until a can arrives. Only other thought I had but did not try was removing the brake for a few shots to get the velocity pinned down
 
Son-Of-A-Beach!!!! Just got mine and have not tried it on my Savage .338L yet?? I do have a different brake that is shorter that is very effective, but I did not want to change it out?
 
Didn't we all buy the V2 because it was supposed to "work" with a wider variety of brakes/suppressors? I didn't even get the chance to open mine to play with it when I was home a few months ago, but if it doesn't work with THAT brake, then I'm now worried about some of my own setups.

Keep us posted on what you figure out, and if you shoot/blow up the Magnetospeed we definitely need pics! ;)
 
You could always buy a suppressor and not have this problem. I do know the V2 works with the brake that came on my 338 FCP HS Precision.
 
I think if your brake is longer than 4 inches, it's not supposed to work according to the manual. However, I'm confident you can probably get it to work. The key is that you get the sensor deck close enough to the bullet path and the sensor deck is perfectly parallel to the flight of the bullet, and not at any slight angle. If it's angled, you won't get good readings, and you risk skipping bullets off the deck. This means it needs to be clamped on super tight, and you gotta check it every round until your confident, then check it after every mag. YMMV, but I'd be surprised if you can't get it to work with the 2nd pic. If you're too nervous about it, start with the sensor deck a little further away from the bore, and work your way in until you get a reading or until you're too close for comfort. Then at least you can safely test if the bayo is going to move after a shot. Again, just my 2 cents, so take that with a grain of salt.

Be careful, and best of luck. As Bogey said, if you shoot the bayo, we want pics! :)
 
If any of you find that yours doesn't work and want to get rid of it, I'm looking for one at a discounted price... :)

But seriously, it shouldn't be too difficult to adapt it to use even with the largest brakes. A little ingenuity goes along way.
 
Just watch the placement of the strap and support mount, and don't cover any of the brake ports that vent the gasses. In the 2nd picture it appears that you have not covered part of any of the ports with the strap, and that there are no visible vents where the support mount is located. Seems like that is a safe enough setup which won't expose the strap/bayonet to direct vented muzzle blast.
 
Ok, here is a pic on the same setup as you? My opinion is that you have a Bayo from a V1, not a V2? Look at the difference in our pics? I would check into this and get some measurements. Unless that is a longer brake, thats a V1? Measure and let us know? I am just assuming from what I read on the updates from V1 to V2, that the bayo is longer to accommodate longer brakes? This is the only thing that makes sense to me?
 

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Do you have the HS Precision stocked .338 or the Aluminum stocked version or the Hunter Version? I have seen a different brake on the Hunter Version?
 
afate45 said:
However, I'm confident you can probably get it to work.
Click to expand...

LOL. Confident based on what?

I said it before, it will not work with this particular brake on this rifle.

Photo one will not register anything but not damage anything either. Photo two will also not register anything and potentially shred the strap and who knows how interesting things could get if that happens.

Like I said, get a can or take the brake off for the readings
 
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Why would photo 2 not register? Don't mind how low it is (if that's the problem) I just threw it on like that to show mounting position. I can raise the bayo up to where it needs to be
 
because it's not secure and tight enough. The part of the brake you have it wrapped around is a completely inconsistent surface, entirely unlike wrapping it around a section of barrel. Once the rifle fires the unit will shift and move up or down
 
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this isn't the only rifle I can't get this chrono to work on. I run my handguards on AR's to as close to the front as possible to just behind the brake, so if there isn't enough exposed barrel you can forget it too
 
It fits all my other guns just fine, even thin lightweight barrels. Maybe I call magnetospeeed tomorrow and see if they would look into a big brake version or something else to accommodate this.
 
it will work on any barrel providing there's enough exposed length of it (as per my AR troubles) but that's because it's getting a rock solid clamp around it. Look at your first picture and look on that one where you have the strap in the second pic. There is no consistent surface there on the brake to get a good clamp with, that's the issue. Personally if you don't want or can't own a can in your state or whatever I'd just take the brake off for as many shots as you need to record and you should be fine
 
I would love, and sure I will have a can eventually on this gun but 338 cans arnt cheap lol. Getting a can for my other rifles this year, and the 338 next year.

How hard is it to take off a brake? Don't know if any thread locker or anything like that is used from factory or what?? And I assume putting it back on it'll index in the same place?...this is my only gun with a brake and have never messed with it.
 
Your Brake is an inch longer than mine. I have the HS Precision stocked version. I am not sure why they put different Brakes on nearly the same rifle? If its not going to work on your rifle, I would just buy a different Brake. There are a few brakes out there that are more effective than the brake you have, Muscle Brake for one.

I would sell you mine at a reasonable price, as I have wanted to try a different brake anyways... Pm me if you are interested?

PS - I can throw in a crush washer and that will make it tight and you can index it properly
 
there would not be thread locker on there no. Un-suppressed AR's use crush washers behind their brakes which you should replace every time you put the brake back on. I don't know if savage uses those or shims but I'd bet it's a crush washer. If it was shims it would index to the same place. If it's the crush and you need to pick up a new one you just index it back to the same place upon installation. Good luck man let us know how it goes. You running 250's or 300's?
 
I started off with 300 scenars and they worked awesome. Tried 250's and couldn't do anything for a decent group.
Been using hornady match 285's for a year and they were also good in this gun.

Currently working up a load for the 285 amax and so far I've had 1in groups at 400 yds, and mainly 2in groups...very happy with these as well
 
woodland-ghost said:
Currently working up a load for the 285 amax and so far I've had 1in groups at 400 yds, and mainly 2in groups...very happy with these as well
Click to expand...

Nice.. I've been meaning to pick some of those up and give them a run
 
77grain said:
this isn't the only rifle I can't get this chrono to work on. I run my handguards on AR's to as close to the front as possible to just behind the brake, so if there isn't enough exposed barrel you can forget it too
Click to expand...
Mount it to the rail. Works fine on my NSRs and Seekins rails.
 
I hope I found a winner, as close as it will get with this brake...

Going to try and shoot this weekend if I'm brave enough

 
Well now I can get back to shooting and being able to use the magnetospeeed on my 110 BA .
I actually like the look of the HS brake on the 110...

 
Didn't end up trying it. It was sketchy and just didn't want to risk it. The HS brake that's on there now is much smaller but couldn't tell if there was any more recoil or not so I'm happy with it...to bad the scope went out today. Very happy with chrono results though
 
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