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Gunsmithing making a ustom base

sniperaviator

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 25, 2010
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0
65
Colorado
how hard would it be to mill a custom picatinny rail that would be a "poor man's zero stop"? IOW, custom cant a 20moa rail so the scope is bottomed out (leaving maybe 2 moa of down) when it is zeroed at 100 yards. This is for a Rem 700.
 
Re: making a ustom base

Not the most simple task in the world but totally doable, everything has got to be totally bang on centre. Ive done lots of stuff like this in the past but to be honest with the cost of most of this now its just easier to go out and buy it. This might not answer your question but if you feel you can do it then Id say most of the answers are already in in your own head. Google the 20moa stuff and you'll get that easy enough, really not worth the hassle for me anymore.
 
Re: making a ustom base

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sniperaviator</div><div class="ubbcode-body">how hard would it be to mill a custom picatinny rail that would be a "poor man's zero stop"? IOW, custom cant a 20moa rail so the scope is bottomed out (leaving maybe 2 moa of down) when it is zeroed at 100 yards. This is for a Rem 700. </div></div>

in theory it could be done. in reality, it would be no where near a "poor man's" zero stop.

you would need to test fire the rifle to get the zero. then you would have to figure out how much the angle needs to change. then you would have to make a base that has the same height at the center of the scope but with the new angle to match the intended zero. <span style="font-style: italic">IF</span> (that's a big IF) everything was perfect, it would probably work. then when you changed your load, barrel or scope, you would have to start all over.
 
Re: making a ustom base

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sniperaviator</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's a zero stop, it only as to be within 5 moa and you can start with a 20 moa base. </div></div>

i don't think you could start with the base you originally zeroed with. i could be wrong but i think the exact center of the scope needs to stay at the same height above the bore as it was when it was zeroed.