• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

Gunsmithing Mauser bottom metal fit

HSNARC

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 23, 2010
388
97
37
Central Illinois
I’m working on putting this yugo 48 Mauser into a new “semi inlet” walnut stock I got on eBay. I’ve never done any stock work and my only reference was the factory mil stock.

Working on getting the action and bottom metal fit into the inlet without any tension on the middle of the bottom metal. I made a pillar for the rear screw. Thinking about building something for the front screw once I get the correct distance between action and BM.

How critical is the top of the mag box touching the bottom of the action like the first pic. What about a little gap like the second?
79AD116A-03D8-4E8B-A2CD-7C27C5AE0519.jpeg
12AC9921-BDFA-4796-91EC-3378E6FE4DFA.jpeg
 
How far does the magazine seat? And how does it feed? In my experience installing bottom metal that is what dictated how close it is to the action.
 
Oh. It looked like it took magazines. I don't have an answer for you. I do know that my Remington BDL box rests against the action.
 
It doesn't need to touch. That's why you have a spring & follower. What you do want to do though is make a pillar to take up any gap. JB Weld works good. Make sure to get plenty of releases agent on both parts and the action bolts. Once it's cured the bolt hole needs to be opened up another 30 thousand. Action bolt bind will kill any accuracy. You also should look at replacing the firing pin spring. Go to at least 22# but I normally will use a 26# spring. You won't find a Yugo specific spring so buy a 98 spring and grind it off to length. That spring is older than dirt and will be way SLOW.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Paqueo
Read the attachment that is good info. I bed action and bottom metal with the action screws installed. This lines everything up correctly and is why you need a lot of release agent on the bolt threads. I've tried taping/using bungee material and always ended up grinding it out and doing it this way. It works but changing the firing pin spring is pretty important if you want to shoot small. You only initially use less than 20# of torque when bedding the action/bottom metal. Enough to get full contact on all your surfaces.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Paqueo
8BA7818D-0FA6-4CCF-BAA4-E4BF8A5D1716.jpeg

Thinking about drilling out the action screw holes and tapping with 5/16-18. I’m getting frustrated with the OEM 1/4-22 55 degree whitworth threads. I think I’ll end up needing custom length screws and a standard thread would make that a lot easier.