• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

MEGA w/ ultra match WTF?

Yah, iv lost that warm fuzzy feelin. So I'm going to try something new. If that dosnt work I'll take up pottery.
 
I run a 223 wylde Um barrel and its 1/2 inch. I also fussed with an adjustable gas block. Got it dropping brass in a neat pile at 3:30pm. I think its important to not have an over gassed stick.
 
1. Start with match grade ammo, not reloads. Too many variables unless you've been reloading for 20 years. There's nothing wrong with reloading if you do proper development and it doesn't take 20 years or even 20 months experience.
2. Try different match ammo types if you can. I have the best luck with 55gr Hornady in my 223 and 168gr FGMM in my 308 bolt gun.
3. Don't use a bipod. Also don't move the gun for 2 seconds after each shot. Yeah... don't use the equipment you're most likely to shoot with. Really? I can get sub-moa groups with a b-ipod and rearbag as can many other shooters on here.
4. Do use a big power scope.... the Bushnell you have will do I'm sure. A 10x power will do the job just as well as a 16x.
5. Do remove copper fowling after 20 or 30 shots. Ask any benchrest guy. They spend a lot of time shoot groups. Now go ask any number of PRS shooters and other match shooters who will say to NOT clean the barrel accept when accuracy decreases which is several hundred rounds.

Yeah no...
 
I will boriscope that barrel as soon as it comes off. id do it now but the barrel is coming off either way.
 
I had the exact same issues with a BCM barrel. Finally ended up finding a load it liked, but still shoots factory ammo outside my expectations. I think a lot of it has to do with listening to people on ARF.com claiming they shoot 1/2 MOA all the time. Now, when I read someone saying their rifle is 1/2 MOA, I interpret that as it's shot a 1/2 MOA group ONCE. The Semi-auto shootouts prove the rifles that can do it with consistency are extremely rare.
 
I have had very good luck with the Brownells barrels which I believe are made by Liberty.
My 16" UM does not shoot as good as my 20" Brownells barrel. Both are .750 gas seat.
 
My experience with the large frame AR is only over a couple of barrels and bolts and this is opinion rather than know for certain. I have not seen a .308 AR barrel and bolt headspace on a .308 GO gauge ONLY. Yes, I understand that's safe and somewhat expected, but optimal for accuracy? Even my old Franken 700 with a VS barrel won't close on a NO GO, and it has a throat a mile long. I agree with the person that said to bump your fired cases shoulders back 3 or 4 thousands and go from there.

I think the problem lies in the fact that the average somewhat mass producer of .308 AR barrels is always taking into account that somebody might try and shoot 7.62 from it. How is it that GAP produces a semi that shoots? I think it's because they're chambering and headspacing those barrels. Then again I've never heard anybody say my .308 GAP 10 won't chamber this vintage South African surplus I've been sitting on, so I don't know for certain.

I've never heard anybody say what their Lilja or Krieger headspaced to, so that would be good info to have. I have no personal experience with them, but I think that Noveske also has it down because I remember reading that they went in and cut their own chambers. This also leads me to believe that those rare and elusive M1A rifles that really do shoot have tight chambers, like a friend's SA. It will only close on a .308 go gauge.

And that M1A has the heaviest barrel possible. I don't think it's realistic to expect stellar 5 shot groups from a lighter weight barrel. If I were doing it again I would contact Brux to make me a .308 barrel, tell them exactly what I expected regarding chamber dimensions and ship them my bolt.