Just picked up a new Remington 700 with a S.S. Rock Creek Barrel in it. 308. I noticed that there are absolutely no markings on the barrel to designate caliber, manufacturer, twist rate, etc. Is this lack of markings normal for Rock barrels?
Mike Rock Barrels
- Thread starter CyberPunkBebop
- Start date
Re: Mike Rock Barrels
Most manufacturers mark their barrels on the end. When the barrel is chambered, the markings get faced off. Usually who built the gun will mark it with the caliber and their name on the side.
Most manufacturers mark their barrels on the end. When the barrel is chambered, the markings get faced off. Usually who built the gun will mark it with the caliber and their name on the side.
Re: Mike Rock Barrels
If you are referring to a blank, the markings are as noted found on the breech end of the blank. If you are referring to a finished rifle with a SS barrel, it is the gunsmiths job to mark the barrel as to caliber and whatever other pertinent information he might see fit.
If you are referring to a blank, the markings are as noted found on the breech end of the blank. If you are referring to a finished rifle with a SS barrel, it is the gunsmiths job to mark the barrel as to caliber and whatever other pertinent information he might see fit.
Re: Mike Rock Barrels
Cool. Thanks for the info!
When I bought the gun from the seller, he informed me that it was a Rock Creek Barrel, 22", 1:11 twist, .308, Threaded (5/8 X 24), Heavy Contour (just not sure which). Then when I got the gun I noticed there were no markings and got a bit confused. But what you guys are telling me makes sense.
So I imagine the quickest way to get the detailed specs of the barrel (contour info) would be to just email the guy who put it all together and ask him which barrel he ordered from Mike.
Thanks Again for your help!
One last question: I got a threaded barrel because I plan on running a brake... and eventually a can. I know there's already many discussions on different brakes, but based on my reading so far it's kinda hard to tell - what's the main difference between the Badger FTE and Thruster? Is it that the FTE is removed more quickly for running a can? Can you run the Thruster just using threads? Finally, are there some good alternatives to the FTE-style brakes... it seems they're impossible to get right now.
Here's a pic of the barrel
Cool. Thanks for the info!
When I bought the gun from the seller, he informed me that it was a Rock Creek Barrel, 22", 1:11 twist, .308, Threaded (5/8 X 24), Heavy Contour (just not sure which). Then when I got the gun I noticed there were no markings and got a bit confused. But what you guys are telling me makes sense.
So I imagine the quickest way to get the detailed specs of the barrel (contour info) would be to just email the guy who put it all together and ask him which barrel he ordered from Mike.
Thanks Again for your help!
One last question: I got a threaded barrel because I plan on running a brake... and eventually a can. I know there's already many discussions on different brakes, but based on my reading so far it's kinda hard to tell - what's the main difference between the Badger FTE and Thruster? Is it that the FTE is removed more quickly for running a can? Can you run the Thruster just using threads? Finally, are there some good alternatives to the FTE-style brakes... it seems they're impossible to get right now.
Here's a pic of the barrel
Re: Mike Rock Barrels
The alternatives to the Badger FTE would be the CSR removable Muscle brake (there is a group buy going on here now in the GB section.) or the RAD Rapid brake that HateCA makes. I have one of each and both work really well.
The alternatives to the Badger FTE would be the CSR removable Muscle brake (there is a group buy going on here now in the GB section.) or the RAD Rapid brake that HateCA makes. I have one of each and both work really well.
Re: Mike Rock Barrels
You'll need to have a another shoulder machined into your barrel if you want to run an FTE brake. As long as your threads are done properly, you can just run the thruster brake with no thread locker and you can spin it off whenever you want to run a can.
The thruster works well, as do most all brakes. The little bastard brake by APA is another favorite of mine.
You'll need to have a another shoulder machined into your barrel if you want to run an FTE brake. As long as your threads are done properly, you can just run the thruster brake with no thread locker and you can spin it off whenever you want to run a can.
The thruster works well, as do most all brakes. The little bastard brake by APA is another favorite of mine.
Re: Mike Rock Barrels
Thanks again for all the great info guys!
Just an update:
1. Getting Barrel info (contour) emailed to me tomorrow.
2. Decided to go APA Little or Fat Bastard - as it will be awhile until I'm legally allowed to run a can - and I think the APA looks awesome... not to mention seems to work pretty damn well in the videos I've seen!
3. Planning on sending it to APA or GAP for install. I'm currently living in Wisconsin though.
Don't really have all that much spare cash right now, but when I send it out I'll probably Cerakote, add a Detachable Mag, and upgrade the stock. Pretty stoked! I'll post some pictures when it's all done.
Thanks again for all the great info guys!
Just an update:
1. Getting Barrel info (contour) emailed to me tomorrow.
2. Decided to go APA Little or Fat Bastard - as it will be awhile until I'm legally allowed to run a can - and I think the APA looks awesome... not to mention seems to work pretty damn well in the videos I've seen!
3. Planning on sending it to APA or GAP for install. I'm currently living in Wisconsin though.
Don't really have all that much spare cash right now, but when I send it out I'll probably Cerakote, add a Detachable Mag, and upgrade the stock. Pretty stoked! I'll post some pictures when it's all done.
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