I know in order to mil with my SFP NXS 5.5-22 I have to set the scope on full power (x22), however does anyone know if I can mil at half power on 11 (eleven) magnification? I have the MLR reticle and according to Nightforce the hash marks are at 0.5 mil increments which in theory (I'm guessing here) means that on a 11 power the hash marks are the equivalent of 1 mil. Can anyone confirm whether I'm right?
Rifle Scopes Milling on half power
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Re: Milling on half power
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body">dudes please............ </div></div>
Correct or what? Bit of a newbie sounding question I know...but it has never been mentioned in any of the posts I've read, or by the good folks at NF when I rencently had a conversation with them about the merits of milling and SFP/FFP reticle options.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body">dudes please............ </div></div>
Correct or what? Bit of a newbie sounding question I know...but it has never been mentioned in any of the posts I've read, or by the good folks at NF when I rencently had a conversation with them about the merits of milling and SFP/FFP reticle options.
Re: Milling on half power
"Gee, I don't know.
I was thinking about a different recticle myself.
Let me go look at the brochure."
(many combined)
Gonna be windy Satrday, time to go shoot!
"Gee, I don't know.
I was thinking about a different recticle myself.
Let me go look at the brochure."
(many combined)
Gonna be windy Satrday, time to go shoot!
Re: Milling on half power
Say you missed your shot and you have to hold, but need to dial down to 6x to get a good view of your target. Quick. What's your hold?
Say you missed your shot and you have to hold, but need to dial down to 6x to get a good view of your target. Quick. What's your hold?
Re: Milling on half power
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mute</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Say you missed your shot and you have to hold, but need to dial down to 6x to get a good view of your target. Quick. What's your hold? </div></div>
x5.5 in my case - but it would depend on the distance. The 0.5 mil increments mean 2 mils at that power: <span style="text-decoration: underline">appx</span> 2/3rd of foot at 100 yds, 1 foot and 1/3rd at 200 yds, 2 feet at 300 yds, 2 feet and 2/3 rds at 400 etc etc. Yep not ideal but it's a lot better than being set at x22 power all the time. x11 power is fine and with the MLR reticle 0.5 mil increments works well. But for SFP scopes maybe NF should think about an MLR with 0.25 mil increments - it might be a bit messy to look at though.
FFP is better granted, but we work with what we've got.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mute</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Say you missed your shot and you have to hold, but need to dial down to 6x to get a good view of your target. Quick. What's your hold? </div></div>
x5.5 in my case - but it would depend on the distance. The 0.5 mil increments mean 2 mils at that power: <span style="text-decoration: underline">appx</span> 2/3rd of foot at 100 yds, 1 foot and 1/3rd at 200 yds, 2 feet at 300 yds, 2 feet and 2/3 rds at 400 etc etc. Yep not ideal but it's a lot better than being set at x22 power all the time. x11 power is fine and with the MLR reticle 0.5 mil increments works well. But for SFP scopes maybe NF should think about an MLR with 0.25 mil increments - it might be a bit messy to look at though.
FFP is better granted, but we work with what we've got.
Re: Milling on half power
I shoot BR with an 18-40X PR boosted SFP Leupold, with accurate MILs at 20X (same as factory). They put a dot on the power ring where the reticle is true.
That means that at 40X, each dot is really a half-MIL. I dial for EL, but hold for windage. Oftentimes, I'll use the power ring to "dial in" my windage hold, so I can hold one of the dots dead-on, and that seems to work well for me.
Original question - yes, one MIL hashmark @ 22X would be 2 MILs at 11X, 4 MILs @ 5.5X, etc.
Cheers,
Bill
I shoot BR with an 18-40X PR boosted SFP Leupold, with accurate MILs at 20X (same as factory). They put a dot on the power ring where the reticle is true.
That means that at 40X, each dot is really a half-MIL. I dial for EL, but hold for windage. Oftentimes, I'll use the power ring to "dial in" my windage hold, so I can hold one of the dots dead-on, and that seems to work well for me.
Original question - yes, one MIL hashmark @ 22X would be 2 MILs at 11X, 4 MILs @ 5.5X, etc.
Cheers,
Bill
Re: Milling on half power
Ok there is one issue with this topic.
Most <span style="font-weight: bold">Assume</span> this would work.
How you check is simple, what you need.
111yds
A 2x4 and 1" masking tape
Ok, measure a 2x4 and mark every 4" then place the lead edge to the 1" masking tape at the marking. When you get done it should look like a horizontal striped board.
Now go stick it in the ground and level the 2x4
Measure off a REAL 111yds, not on LRF, but a measuring tape.
Back at the ZERO line each mil should line up with the marking-lead edge of the masking tape all the way down the 2x4
Now adjust the mag down and see what you get.
That is a true way to see what options you have. Typing on the internet, will not.
John
Ok there is one issue with this topic.
Most <span style="font-weight: bold">Assume</span> this would work.
How you check is simple, what you need.
111yds
A 2x4 and 1" masking tape
Ok, measure a 2x4 and mark every 4" then place the lead edge to the 1" masking tape at the marking. When you get done it should look like a horizontal striped board.
Now go stick it in the ground and level the 2x4
Measure off a REAL 111yds, not on LRF, but a measuring tape.
Back at the ZERO line each mil should line up with the marking-lead edge of the masking tape all the way down the 2x4
Now adjust the mag down and see what you get.
That is a true way to see what options you have. Typing on the internet, will not.
John
Re: Milling on half power
Don't let the die hard FFP guys fool you. I shoot FFP, cause I can, but don't let anyone tell you that you HAVE to have it.
Do some searching on a guy here named Terry Cross. I've never seen Terry out of the top 3 at a competition and usually he's in the #1 spot. Last time I checked he was using a SFP 5-22 NXS with an MLR reticle.
It's not always about the gear. It's about training with what you have, practicing like every shot counts and learning to drive your rifle package to its potential.
Don't let the die hard FFP guys fool you. I shoot FFP, cause I can, but don't let anyone tell you that you HAVE to have it.
Do some searching on a guy here named Terry Cross. I've never seen Terry out of the top 3 at a competition and usually he's in the #1 spot. Last time I checked he was using a SFP 5-22 NXS with an MLR reticle.
It's not always about the gear. It's about training with what you have, practicing like every shot counts and learning to drive your rifle package to its potential.
Re: Milling on half power
Here's the thing...if you just try and see what you get, you'll learn a lot more than by asking. But I'll tell you that I've done exactly what you're asking about with a 3.5-15x50 NXS and a 5.5-22x50 NXS. Here's ONE of the problems...on paper (mathematically), it SHOULD work, which is why I tried it for myself. However, in practice, it doesn't work very well. As you decrease the mag, the image gets smaller with respect to the reticle. The smaller it gets (ie. the lower the mag), the harder it becomes to ACCURATELY estimate a mil value. So the estimated distances become farther and farther off the real value (as determined by a LRF). So unless you know exact measurements for bigger and bigger objects to range with, it becomes more and more difficult to do as you drop the mag. I would urge you to try it on your own, just so you will see what I'm talking about. It doesn't take very long and if you think about other possible sources of error in distance estimation using an SFP scope at different mags (there several other potential sources of error) while you're doing it, I think you'll learn something valuable.
Here's the thing...if you just try and see what you get, you'll learn a lot more than by asking. But I'll tell you that I've done exactly what you're asking about with a 3.5-15x50 NXS and a 5.5-22x50 NXS. Here's ONE of the problems...on paper (mathematically), it SHOULD work, which is why I tried it for myself. However, in practice, it doesn't work very well. As you decrease the mag, the image gets smaller with respect to the reticle. The smaller it gets (ie. the lower the mag), the harder it becomes to ACCURATELY estimate a mil value. So the estimated distances become farther and farther off the real value (as determined by a LRF). So unless you know exact measurements for bigger and bigger objects to range with, it becomes more and more difficult to do as you drop the mag. I would urge you to try it on your own, just so you will see what I'm talking about. It doesn't take very long and if you think about other possible sources of error in distance estimation using an SFP scope at different mags (there several other potential sources of error) while you're doing it, I think you'll learn something valuable.
Re: Milling on half power
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: gstaylorg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here's the thing...if you just try and see what you get, you'll learn a lot more than by asking. But I'll tell you that I've done exactly what you're asking about with a 3.5-15x50 NXS and a 5.5-22x50 NXS. Here's ONE of the problems...on paper (mathematically), it SHOULD work, which is why I tried it for myself. However, in practice, it doesn't work very well. As you decrease the mag, the image gets smaller with respect to the reticle. The smaller it gets (ie. the lower the mag), the harder it becomes to ACCURATELY estimate a mil value. So the estimated distances become farther and farther off the real value (as determined by a LRF). So unless you know exact measurements for bigger and bigger objects to range with, it becomes more and more difficult to do as you drop the mag. I would urge you to try it on your own, just so you will see what I'm talking about. It doesn't take very long and if you think about other possible sources of error in distance estimation using an SFP scope at different mags (there several other potential sources of error) while you're doing it, I think you'll learn something valuable. </div></div>
Agreed, but for scope adjustment and holdovers it works just fine.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: gstaylorg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here's the thing...if you just try and see what you get, you'll learn a lot more than by asking. But I'll tell you that I've done exactly what you're asking about with a 3.5-15x50 NXS and a 5.5-22x50 NXS. Here's ONE of the problems...on paper (mathematically), it SHOULD work, which is why I tried it for myself. However, in practice, it doesn't work very well. As you decrease the mag, the image gets smaller with respect to the reticle. The smaller it gets (ie. the lower the mag), the harder it becomes to ACCURATELY estimate a mil value. So the estimated distances become farther and farther off the real value (as determined by a LRF). So unless you know exact measurements for bigger and bigger objects to range with, it becomes more and more difficult to do as you drop the mag. I would urge you to try it on your own, just so you will see what I'm talking about. It doesn't take very long and if you think about other possible sources of error in distance estimation using an SFP scope at different mags (there several other potential sources of error) while you're doing it, I think you'll learn something valuable. </div></div>
Agreed, but for scope adjustment and holdovers it works just fine.
Re: Milling on half power
I think there a white dot to mark 11x on my 5.5-22x NXS just for above stated purpose. Not exact, but close.
I think there a white dot to mark 11x on my 5.5-22x NXS just for above stated purpose. Not exact, but close.
Re: Milling on half power
Why would this come into play, unless you ran out of scope?
8-32 w/30MOA base still gives 12-15 under 100 yard zero.(for me)
1165 uses some of the marks on my npr1@ 22x.
If you are spotting for your partner, which you should be, you need to be on the same page.
I understand not everybody can shoot, and see what the conditions actually do at long range.
But at the same time you can't guess what it will either.
TC
Why would this come into play, unless you ran out of scope?
8-32 w/30MOA base still gives 12-15 under 100 yard zero.(for me)
1165 uses some of the marks on my npr1@ 22x.
If you are spotting for your partner, which you should be, you need to be on the same page.
I understand not everybody can shoot, and see what the conditions actually do at long range.
But at the same time you can't guess what it will either.
TC
Re: Milling on half power
I’m in a similar predicament; I have a Hensoldt 6-24x72 that is SFP. I honestly didn’t think that any of the Hensoldts would be SFP. I had it in the rings and mounted before I noticed it was not a FFP scope. I still feel like a real putz, and I bought it almost a year ago. Fact is, the disappointment keeps me from shooting; disappointment in the SFP of my scope and a special disappointment in myself for not checking before I mounted it. A very expensive mistake…<span style="font-style: italic">very</span> expensive.
I’m in a similar predicament; I have a Hensoldt 6-24x72 that is SFP. I honestly didn’t think that any of the Hensoldts would be SFP. I had it in the rings and mounted before I noticed it was not a FFP scope. I still feel like a real putz, and I bought it almost a year ago. Fact is, the disappointment keeps me from shooting; disappointment in the SFP of my scope and a special disappointment in myself for not checking before I mounted it. A very expensive mistake…<span style="font-style: italic">very</span> expensive.
Re: Milling on half power
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Magnumdood</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I’m in a similar predicament; I have a Hensoldt 6-24x72 that is SFP. I honestly didn’t think that any of the Hensoldts would be SFP. I had it in the rings and mounted before I noticed it was not a FFP scope. I still feel like a real putz, and I bought it almost a year ago. Fact is, the disappointment keeps me from shooting; disappointment in the SFP of my scope and a special disappointment in myself for not checking before I mounted it. A very expensive mistake…<span style="font-style: italic">very</span> expensive. </div></div>
If you're not happy with your Hensoldt I'll take if off your hands. No, I think the jury is still out on SFP and FFP scopes. Many prefer SFPs. Zeiss wouldn't have taken the decision not to offer FFPs on their highend scopes for nothing. I think many in the military still prefer SFPs. You can still mil with yours at 24, 12 and 6 power. I'd be very happy with it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Magnumdood</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I’m in a similar predicament; I have a Hensoldt 6-24x72 that is SFP. I honestly didn’t think that any of the Hensoldts would be SFP. I had it in the rings and mounted before I noticed it was not a FFP scope. I still feel like a real putz, and I bought it almost a year ago. Fact is, the disappointment keeps me from shooting; disappointment in the SFP of my scope and a special disappointment in myself for not checking before I mounted it. A very expensive mistake…<span style="font-style: italic">very</span> expensive. </div></div>
If you're not happy with your Hensoldt I'll take if off your hands. No, I think the jury is still out on SFP and FFP scopes. Many prefer SFPs. Zeiss wouldn't have taken the decision not to offer FFPs on their highend scopes for nothing. I think many in the military still prefer SFPs. You can still mil with yours at 24, 12 and 6 power. I'd be very happy with it.
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