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MOA and Milrad Turret Calculations

RldrNewby

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 26, 2020
119
79
I mainly follow the reloading forum, and only have experience posting from there, so I’m not sure how to post in a different forum yet. Regardless, this post is all about figuring out Scope Turret dial up in MOA and Mils, when you already know the bullet drop in inches based off a trajectory data at given distances. I suppose it’s all relative, as it applies to reloading, since we often use optics to shoot for groups at distance.

Anyhow, I was at the range recently when a shooter (who only had a box of factory ammo with published trajectory drop data) asked me how he was supposed to know how many MOAs to dial up for a 500yd shot, based off his ammo box’s drop data? I explained it all to him, and although it’s probably been covered plenty of times on the hide, I figured I would share what I told him for the benefit of the newcomers to the sport. Unfortunately it involves math, so if you’re still reading, pls don’t bail yet. It’s not all that bad.

Well, this is a two step process for both MOA and Mils that goes as follows:

Step 1- For MOA, you must first figure out what 1 MOA equals at the DISTANCE you are shooting.

*MOA is defined as, “Minute of Angle”, meaning it’s a linear angle, which increases in value the further away from the muzzle that distance gets. An MOAs baseline value is defined as 1.047 inches at 100yds; therefore, to determine what 1 MOA equals at a distance FURTHER than 100yds, you must first apply the following formula:

(Distance to target in Yards / 100) X 1.047= 1 MOA at that given distance.

Ex: If Target Distance is 573yds.
(573 / 100) X 1.047=
(5.73) X 1.047= 5.99931in
So, 1 MOA at 573yds= 5.99931 inches.

Step 2-Divide the known elevation drop in inches at that given distance by the value of what 1 MOA equals AT THAT given distance.

Ex: To continue with the same example of 573yds used in Step 1, let’s pretend your trajectory chart says the bullet drop for your ammunition at 573yds will be 66 inches.

What to dial in the Scope Turret = (Drop in Inches at a given distance) divided by (1 MOA’s value at that given distance)

66 (drop in inches at 573yds) / 5.99931 (what 1 MOA equals at 573yds) = 11.001 MOAs

So, if your bullet’s trajectory chart stated the bullet will drop 66 inches at 573 yards, you would need to dial up 11 MOAs in your MOA scope turret to be on target at that 573yd distance.

**Note: If you have a Milrad Scope, the principal is EXACTLY the same, but there is one thing that will change in the formula, which is the baseline value of a Mil versus an MOA. The baseline value of 1Mil is defined as 3.6 inches at 100yds.

For a Milrad Scope, if we use the same example of 573yds with a 66 inch drop:

Step1-
(573 / 100) X 3.6 = 20.628
So, 1 Mil at 573yds = 20.628 inches
Step2-
66in drop / 20.628in = 3.199mils

So, if your bullet’s trajectory chart stated your bullet will drop 66 inches at 573yds, AND you have a Milrad scope, you would have to dial up 3.2mils in your Scope’s turret to be on target at that 573 yard distance.

Other helpful applications that can be determined by knowing what the value of 1 MOA is at a given distance beyond 100yds is trying to determine group size in MOA beyond 100yds.

Using the same example of 573yds, let’s say you shot a 5-Shot group with your rifle at 573yds, and then you measured the group with calipers and found it to be 4.130 inches. What would your group size be in MOA?

Since we already determined earlier the value of 1 MOA at 573yds equals 5.99931 inches, half your work is already done.

Simply divide your group size in inches at that distance by the value of 1MOA at that given distance.

Ex: 4.130inch (group size in inches) / 5.99931 (value of 1MOA at 573yds) = 0.688 MOA group.

Personal Observations and Opinions of MOA versus Milrad:

Because the baseline 100yd values of MOA (1.047”) versus Mils (3.6”) are vastly different, you can clearly see the MOA system has a much finer resolution than Milrad, which can allow for slightly finer adjustment increments than Milrad; however, along with that finer resolution, for practical real world applications, you can also clearly see one drawback to MOA is that MOA requires way more turning of the turret dial at distance to achieve the same elevation offset you could achieve using significantly less dialing with a Milrad platform. You essentially have to turn an MOA Turret 3 times more than a Milrad Turret to achieve the same elevation offset. IMO, this drawback makes it more difficult to keep track of how many clicks you’ve encompassed once you go beyond a full revolution in the turret. For practical shooting distances of 1000yds and in, with most typical large bore centerfire calibers greater than .22, I’ve found it’s rare that I need to adjust a Milrad Turret more than one complete full revolution, whereas on most MOA Turrets, depending on the Turret’s size and how many MOAs are encompassed in one complete revolution, you might need to turn your MOA Turret as little as 1.0 to 1.5 full revolutions, to as many as 2.5 to 3.0 full revolutions to be on target at 1000yds, whereas most Milrad scopes will get you there in 1 revolution or less. When you have to turn an MOA Turret more than one revolution, it becomes more difficult to keep track of where you are, as well as distracting when having to keep track of and perform mental math under stressful shooting conditions when one revolution of your MOA turret ends at 24 MOA, so when the 0 comes back up, now it’s representing 25 MOA, but you need to dial up a total of 38MOA to be on at 1000, lol. Things get sticky quick. These factors make it super easy to lose track of your adjustments, and you could find yourself off by one or more MOAs when adjusting, which can mean the difference between an impact and a miss at distance depending on your target size.

I’m not saying there is anything wrong with the MOA system, it just boils down to personal preference. I started out using MOA Turrets, and I still have them on some of my platforms, but once I got into longer range shooting, and after I flubbed my dial up on way more than a few occasions due to miscalculation or getting lost in my clicks, I began contemplating the benefits of Milrad. It took a good bit of research, and even more convincing knowing I was going have to learn new math based of 3.6 inches, but I eventually did try a Milrad Scope, and I liked it so much more, that I vowed I would never go back to MOA as far as new purchases are concerned.

Was all of this post necessary? No, absolutely not. There are tons of ballistic calculators out there that will do all the math for you, BUT if you’re a new shooter and you don’t have a ballistics app yet, or maybe no chronograph either, or maybe you’re a seasoned shooter and your electronics died, and all you have with you is a store bought box of ammunition with published velocity and bullet drop data listed on the box, knowing how to do the math is crucial to knowing how to dial your turret for distances covered by the drop data. The ONLY other way to know how to dial the turret would be guessing, then adjusting DOPE as required as you burn through ammo walking your impacts onto target. The published velocity and trajectory drops on the box of ammo will likely NOT match what your barrel/chamber will produce. That is because the published data was obtained with a different chamber and test barrel than your barrel, and oftentimes using a barrel that will likely be longer than your barrel producing velocities higher than what your barrel will produce resulting in flatter trajectory than your barrel, so what you see on target with regard to velocity and bullet drop will likely be off somewhat from what the box of ammunition states it should be. Shooting the ammunition at the distances where the manufacturer provided published data, then measuring the differences in actual drop on target versus what the box says, then knowing how to do the math yourself, will also allow you be close enough to extrapolate the dial up for those in-between published data distances.

My apologies for how long this was. I run into new shooters all the time and I’m often asked questions about MOA & Milrad, so figured I would do my best to try to explain what little I know about it in hopes that it can help newcomers to the sport, as well as be a refresher to those who have become reliant on ballistic apps to the point where they may’ve gotten rusty on the math. Hope this was helpful!
 
1686535060495.gif
 
Hummm…I find it easier to show and teach a shooter how to use a basic ballistic solver, like Shooter, as it can account for environmentals, provide an initial wind call and provide a shooting solution with relative ease
 
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I agree with you and the others, and it was a ridiculously long “Captain Obvious” post for experienced shooters, but I still thought it was good info to share for new shooters who are still trying to wrap their minds around how things work. I knew I’d catch hell for it, but it’s all good. I got thick skin, lol
 
When I'm teaching a new shooter how to dial a scope, I tell them to chart their drops in mils (or moa) not inches. Doing this eliminates pretty much everything in the OP. No math required; anyone can look at a ballistic chart that says the drop is 2.8 mils, and then dial 2.8 mils on the turret or hold over that much with the reticle.

There are still people who want to insist on plotting drop in inches, but that's not a method we should be encouraging at this point. I did get the part in the OP where the shooter had a box of ammo with drop printed in inches, but chances are high that person still walked away confused and thinking these new fangled turrets are too complicated.

Simple is better.
 
I mainly follow the reloading forum, and only have experience posting from there, so I’m not sure how to post in a different forum yet. Regardless, this post is all about figuring out Scope Turret dial up in MOA and Mils, when you already know the bullet drop in inches based off a trajectory data at given distances. I suppose it’s all relative, as it applies to reloading, since we often use optics to shoot for groups at distance.

Anyhow, I was at the range recently when a shooter (who only had a box of factory ammo with published trajectory drop data) asked me how he was supposed to know how many MOAs to dial up for a 500yd shot, based off his ammo box’s drop data? I explained it all to him, and although it’s probably been covered plenty of times on the hide, I figured I would share what I told him for the benefit of the newcomers to the sport. Unfortunately it involves math, so if you’re still reading, pls don’t bail yet. It’s not all that bad.

Well, this is a two step process for both MOA and Mils that goes as follows:

Step 1- For MOA, you must first figure out what 1 MOA equals at the DISTANCE you are shooting.

*MOA is defined as, “Minute of Angle”, meaning it’s a linear angle, which increases in value the further away from the muzzle that distance gets. An MOAs baseline value is defined as 1.047 inches at 100yds; therefore, to determine what 1 MOA equals at a distance FURTHER than 100yds, you must first apply the following formula:

(Distance to target in Yards / 100) X 1.047= 1 MOA at that given distance.

Ex: If Target Distance is 573yds.
(573 / 100) X 1.047=
(5.73) X 1.047= 5.99931in
So, 1 MOA at 573yds= 5.99931 inches.

Step 2-Divide the known elevation drop in inches at that given distance by the value of what 1 MOA equals AT THAT given distance.

Ex: To continue with the same example of 573yds used in Step 1, let’s pretend your trajectory chart says the bullet drop for your ammunition at 573yds will be 66 inches.

What to dial in the Scope Turret = (Drop in Inches at a given distance) divided by (1 MOA’s value at that given distance)

66 (drop in inches at 573yds) / 5.99931 (what 1 MOA equals at 573yds) = 11.001 MOAs

So, if your bullet’s trajectory chart stated the bullet will drop 66 inches at 573 yards, you would need to dial up 11 MOAs in your MOA scope turret to be on target at that 573yd distance.

**Note: If you have a Milrad Scope, the principal is EXACTLY the same, but there is one thing that will change in the formula, which is the baseline value of a Mil versus an MOA. The baseline value of 1Mil is defined as 3.6 inches at 100yds.

For a Milrad Scope, if we use the same example of 573yds with a 66 inch drop:

Step1-
(573 / 100) X 3.6 = 20.628
So, 1 Mil at 573yds = 20.628 inches
Step2-
66in drop / 20.628in = 3.199mils

So, if your bullet’s trajectory chart stated your bullet will drop 66 inches at 573yds, AND you have a Milrad scope, you would have to dial up 3.2mils in your Scope’s turret to be on target at that 573 yard distance.

Other helpful applications that can be determined by knowing what the value of 1 MOA is at a given distance beyond 100yds is trying to determine group size in MOA beyond 100yds.

Using the same example of 573yds, let’s say you shot a 5-Shot group with your rifle at 573yds, and then you measured the group with calipers and found it to be 4.130 inches. What would your group size be in MOA?

Since we already determined earlier the value of 1 MOA at 573yds equals 5.99931 inches, half your work is already done.

Simply divide your group size in inches at that distance by the value of 1MOA at that given distance.

Ex: 4.130inch (group size in inches) / 5.99931 (value of 1MOA at 573yds) = 0.688 MOA group.

Personal Observations and Opinions of MOA versus Milrad:

Because the baseline 100yd values of MOA (1.047”) versus Mils (3.6”) are vastly different, you can clearly see the MOA system has a much finer resolution than Milrad, which can allow for slightly finer adjustment increments than Milrad; however, along with that finer resolution, for practical real world applications, you can also clearly see one drawback to MOA is that MOA requires way more turning of the turret dial at distance to achieve the same elevation offset you could achieve using significantly less dialing with a Milrad platform. You essentially have to turn an MOA Turret 3 times more than a Milrad Turret to achieve the same elevation offset. IMO, this drawback makes it more difficult to keep track of how many clicks you’ve encompassed once you go beyond a full revolution in the turret. For practical shooting distances of 1000yds and in, with most typical large bore centerfire calibers greater than .22, I’ve found it’s rare that I need to adjust a Milrad Turret more than one complete full revolution, whereas on most MOA Turrets, depending on the Turret’s size and how many MOAs are encompassed in one complete revolution, you might need to turn your MOA Turret as little as 1.0 to 1.5 full revolutions, to as many as 2.5 to 3.0 full revolutions to be on target at 1000yds, whereas most Milrad scopes will get you there in 1 revolution or less. When you have to turn an MOA Turret more than one revolution, it becomes more difficult to keep track of where you are, as well as distracting when having to keep track of and perform mental math under stressful shooting conditions when one revolution of your MOA turret ends at 24 MOA, so when the 0 comes back up, now it’s representing 25 MOA, but you need to dial up a total of 38MOA to be on at 1000, lol. Things get sticky quick. These factors make it super easy to lose track of your adjustments, and you could find yourself off by one or more MOAs when adjusting, which can mean the difference between an impact and a miss at distance depending on your target size.

I’m not saying there is anything wrong with the MOA system, it just boils down to personal preference. I started out using MOA Turrets, and I still have them on some of my platforms, but once I got into longer range shooting, and after I flubbed my dial up on way more than a few occasions due to miscalculation or getting lost in my clicks, I began contemplating the benefits of Milrad. It took a good bit of research, and even more convincing knowing I was going have to learn new math based of 3.6 inches, but I eventually did try a Milrad Scope, and I liked it so much more, that I vowed I would never go back to MOA as far as new purchases are concerned.

Was all of this post necessary? No, absolutely not. There are tons of ballistic calculators out there that will do all the math for you, BUT if you’re a new shooter and you don’t have a ballistics app yet, or maybe no chronograph either, or maybe you’re a seasoned shooter and your electronics died, and all you have with you is a store bought box of ammunition with published velocity and bullet drop data listed on the box, knowing how to do the math is crucial to knowing how to dial your turret for distances covered by the drop data. The ONLY other way to know how to dial the turret would be guessing, then adjusting DOPE as required as you burn through ammo walking your impacts onto target. The published velocity and trajectory drops on the box of ammo will likely NOT match what your barrel/chamber will produce. That is because the published data was obtained with a different chamber and test barrel than your barrel, and oftentimes using a barrel that will likely be longer than your barrel producing velocities higher than what your barrel will produce resulting in flatter trajectory than your barrel, so what you see on target with regard to velocity and bullet drop will likely be off somewhat from what the box of ammunition states it should be. Shooting the ammunition at the distances where the manufacturer provided published data, then measuring the differences in actual drop on target versus what the box says, then knowing how to do the math yourself, will also allow you be close enough to extrapolate the dial up for those in-between published data distances.

My apologies for how long this was. I run into new shooters all the time and I’m often asked questions about MOA & Milrad, so figured I would do my best to try to explain what little I know about it in hopes that it can help newcomers to the sport, as well as be a refresher to those who have become reliant on ballistic apps to the point where they may’ve gotten rusty on the math. Hope this was helpful!
Not long or unnecessary whatsoever. (i see most people here don't read books lol. if you think this is long, you didnt go to college did you? lol) We all learned in 4th grade that just using a calculator to do every problem before you understand the math/mechanics of the solution is bad. You got to learn the mechanics first, THEN start using the lazy way. This is important because not only for 'come ups' at distance, but for zeroing. What if you're 4.5" to the right at 435 yards and have a mil scope? What's the correction? MOST people would not know that. Ok, click your LRF to meters, got it. Do you SEE in centimeters if you were born and raised here? Nope. So now you have to convert that 4.5cm to metric to plug it in to the milrad math; don't have to do that with moa-everything's in the system we were born and raised with here. At any rate, this is a good subject to learn and get familiar with. I've seen a TON of people have their electronics fail (batteries in a gps, screen on a kestrel, etc etc) and they were ABSOLUTELY dead in the water. They, their little trinket and their 6000 dollar rifles were just a paper weight now.
 
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When I'm teaching a new shooter how to dial a scope, I tell them to chart their drops in mils (or moa) not inches. Doing this eliminates pretty much everything in the OP. No math required; anyone can look at a ballistic chart that says the drop is 2.8 mils, and then dial 2.8 mils on the turret or hold over that much with the reticle.

There are still people who want to insist on plotting drop in inches, but that's not a method we should be encouraging at this point. I did get the part in the OP where the shooter had a box of ammo with drop printed in inches, but chances are high that person still walked away confused and thinking these new fangled turrets are too complicated.

Simple is better.

100% correct. Anyone who brings inches into scope data just likes making their life harder. The scope doesn't adjust in inches so why the hell do you even care about inches? Run data in MOA or Mils and dial or hold it. That simple.
 
Not long or unnecessary whatsoever. (i see most people here don't read books lol. if you think this is long, you didnt go to college did you? lol) We all learned in 4th grade that just using a calculator to do every problem before you understand the math/mechanics of the solution is bad. You got to learn the mechanics first, THEN start using the lazy way. This is important because not only for 'come ups' at distance, but for zeroing. What if you're 4.5" to the right at 435 yards and have a mil scope? What's the correction? MOST people would not know that. Ok, click your LRF to meters, got it. Do you SEE in centimeters if you were born and raised here? Nope. So now you have to convert that 4.5cm to metric to plug it in to the milrad math; don't have to do that with moa-everything's in the system we were born and raised with here. At any rate, this is a good subject to learn and get familiar with. I've seen a TON of people have their electronics fail (batteries in a gps, screen on a kestrel, etc etc) and they were ABSOLUTELY dead in the water. They, their little trinket and their 6000 dollar rifles were just a paper weight now.
What reticle are you using to measure 4.5 inches of wind drift?
 
100% correct. Anyone who brings inches into scope data just likes making their life harder. The scope doesn't adjust in inches so why the hell do you even care about inches? Run data in MOA or Mils and dial or hold it. That simple.
My question is this-you're for whatever reason wanting to move your shot group over a specified amount. You look through your spotter (closer view) and you see it's about 'this far' over. Do you know that distance in centimeters? Just by seeing it with your eyes?
 
What reticle are you using to measure 4.5 inches of wind drift?
I don't use reticles for adjustment when zeroing. I can look at the distance it's off, (my eyes see inches not centimeters) do the math on paper to get the exact (not estimate, because ammos really expensive) amount of clicks, then add that to the turret.
 
My question is this-you're for whatever reason wanting to move your shot group over a specified amount. You look through your spotter (closer view) and you see it's about 'this far' over. Do you know that distance in centimeters? Just by seeing it with your eyes?

Just you thinking that mil people think in cm tells me what I need to know. LOL You look through a scope and use the reticle like a ruler. No inches or centimeter or linear of any type. You make your life hard by thinking linear.

If your spotter doesn't have a reticle then there is a problem but workable with using a landmark reference point and then using the reticle to tell you the exact distance from that point of impact to where you want to hit. Then hold or dial it. Again no inches anywhere.
 
Just you thinking that mil people think in cm tells me what I need to know. LOL You look through a scope and use the reticle like a ruler. No inches or centimeter or linear of any type. You make your life hard by thinking linear.

If your spotter doesn't have a reticle then there is a problem but workable with using a landmark reference point and then using the reticle to tell you the exact distance from that point of impact to where you want to hit. Then hold or dial it. Again no inches anywhere.
Yea, a lot of my friends spotters have no reticle in them. A lot of my friends have mil scopes, and want me to go shooting with them. Then we find out their shit's not even zeroed. It seems that when everyone on this forum goes out to shoot, they have alllllll KINDS of nice custom made set ups all nice and ready for their situation. Nice clear reticle, eric cortina on an 80 power swaro behind them spotting, 34 range flags all the way down to the target, sig LRF, target with mil sized boxes up and down etc etc. Not me. When we go out, it's plain paper targets, maybe a halfway decent spotting scope and that's it. I can't accurately gauge how far off a small set of .223 holes are in that paper way out there with a simple scope so when I look through the spotter, I have to estimate how far off that group is and do the math, so I'm not clicking a few unknown distance clicks, shooting a group, clicking some more, shooting some more until 2 boxes are gone like evvvvveryone else around me is doing at the range. (I can tell because theyre clicking those turrets for 20 minutes lol, letting me know they have nooooooo idea what their turrets are doing)
Maybe you guys shoot at ranges with everyone sponsored by lapua but not me lol. With the proper math, all I should need to do is shoot a solid group, look through the spotter, estimate say 5" in whatever direction, do the math, apply that to the number of clicks and that should be that-zeroed in two groups. I should have the formula for both moa and mil scopes because I can't tell my friends what to buy after the fact :) The fact that we all see and live inches, makes a metric scope kinda unnecessarily complicated. My other question is this; if every single adjustment you guys have ever made in your life was just lining up shot groups on a reticle and either dialing or holding, then why not do moa? A stadia line's a stadia line in that manner isn't it?
 
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Yea, a lot of my friends spotters have no reticle in them. A lot of my friends have mil scopes, and want me to go shooting with them. Then we find out their shit's not even zeroed. It seems that when everyone on this forum goes out to shoot, they have alllllll KINDS of nice custom made set ups all nice and ready for their situation. Nice clear reticle, eric cortina on an 80 power swaro behind them spotting, 34 range flags all the way down to the target, sig LRF, target with mil sized boxes up and down etc etc. Not me. When we go out, it's plain paper targets, maybe a halfway decent spotting scope and that's it. I can't accurately gauge how far off a small set of .223 holes are in that paper way out there with a simple scope so when I look through the spotter, I have to estimate how far off that group is and do the math, so I'm not clicking a few unknown distance clicks, shooting a group, clicking some more, shooting some more until 2 boxes are gone like evvvvveryone else around me is doing at the range. (I can tell because theyre clicking those turrets for 20 minutes lol, letting me know they have nooooooo idea what their turrets are doing)
Maybe you guys shoot at ranges with everyone sponsored by lapua but not me lol. With the proper math, all I should need to do is shoot a solid group, look through the spotter, estimate say 5" in whatever direction, do the math, apply that to the number of clicks and that should be that-zeroed in two groups. I should have the formula for both moa and mil scopes because I can't tell my friends what to buy after the fact :) The fact that we all see and live inches, makes a metric scope kinda unnecessarily complicated. My other question is this; if every single adjustment you guys have ever made in your life was just lining up shot groups on a reticle and either dialing or holding, then why not do moa? A stadia line's a stadia line in that manner isn't it?

Again you don't need to convert. If you can see the impacts with a spotter then you see where they are and then go to the scope and use the reticle and make the corrections. No metric or imperial or any linear. That's what you don't get. I see this with people in classes and when they finally realize they don't need linear you can almost see the lightbulb go off over their head. You will get there someday.

And when you say "estimate say 5"" that is not precise at all. It's an estimate. No more precise than using a reticle and actually less. So you are making corrections from an estimate and just doing a lot of math to do the same thing that looking through the scope will do. Seems like you are trying to make a lot of excuses to do things the hard way. You life to make harder but if you learned how to do it your life would be easier.

Also nothing to do gear or the shooters you shoot with as I help new shooters all the time and give corrections and no inches or cm ever come up. And no Eric Corina or wind flags etc. I use a piece of cardboard and stick on targets. It's about knowing how to do things.
 
With the proper math, all I should need to do is shoot a solid group, look through the spotter, estimate say 5" in whatever direction, do the math, apply that to the number of clicks and that should be that-zeroed in two groups.
But with proper shooting you shouldnt have to do any math.

You are turning a training problem into a math problem.
You dont need a math problem to correct with a scope.
You just need to learn how to use your scope.
 
We have this inches to moa and cm to Mil conversation twice a year 😁

People over complicating and not understanding their equipment

The only measuring you need to do is already in front of your eyes. Matched reticle and turrets. Then matched drop/wind values.

Not inches
Not centimeters
 
Yea...Measure your POI vs POA in angular units. Make corrections in angular units.

440px-Observed_angle%2C_arc_length_and_subtension.png

I just sighted in my rifle with a new mil/mil scope (first one I've had). It was stupid easy.
First 5 shots were about 2.6 mil high and 1.8 mil right.
Dial down and left that much.
Next shot hits the POA.
Done (more or less).
Never measured the length to the target or how far off the POI was (another length) except in milradians, just like the figure above (it was tough finding a figure w/o the lengths).
 
Last edited:
We have this inches to moa and cm to Mil conversation twice a year 😁

People over complicating and not understanding their equipment

The only measuring you need to do is already in front of your eyes. Matched reticle and turrets. Then matched drop/wind values.

Not inches
Not centimeters
This^^^

If your reticle subtensions show you're a half mil high and a half mil left... Click down a half mil and right a half mil.

The only time you need to do math is when you walk out there and actually measure how far off the POI is from POA... Easier to use the scope.

But, the OP did a fine job explaining the process. It's still good to know how to do "the maths."

Mike
 
Not long or unnecessary whatsoever. (i see most people here don't read books lol. if you think this is long, you didnt go to college did you? lol) We all learned in 4th grade that just using a calculator to do every problem before you understand the math/mechanics of the solution is bad. You got to learn the mechanics first, THEN start using the lazy way. This is important because not only for 'come ups' at distance, but for zeroing. What if you're 4.5" to the right at 435 yards and have a mil scope? What's the correction? MOST people would not know that. Ok, click your LRF to meters, got it. Do you SEE in centimeters if you were born and raised here? Nope. So now you have to convert that 4.5cm to metric to plug it in to the milrad math; don't have to do that with moa-everything's in the system we were born and raised with here. At any rate, this is a good subject to learn and get familiar with. I've seen a TON of people have their electronics fail (batteries in a gps, screen on a kestrel, etc etc) and they were ABSOLUTELY dead in the water. They, their little trinket and their 6000 dollar rifles were just a paper weight now.
Huh?
Just look at that reticle. It doesn’t even matter if it’s a MIL or MOA or AXEHANDLES reticle. You look at your point of aim and see the point of impact. You say, I aimed here but hit there, so I need to dial or hold that many little marks windage and that other many little marks elevation.
Now, notice my user name, we can get super duper mathematical and shit. It would be a waste of my time.
 
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Not long or unnecessary whatsoever. (i see most people here don't read books lol. if you think this is long, you didnt go to college did you? lol) We all learned in 4th grade that just using a calculator to do every problem before you understand the math/mechanics of the solution is bad. You got to learn the mechanics first, THEN start using the lazy way. This is important because not only for 'come ups' at distance, but for zeroing. What if you're 4.5" to the right at 435 yards and have a mil scope? What's the correction? MOST people would not know that. Ok, click your LRF to meters, got it. Do you SEE in centimeters if you were born and raised here? Nope. So now you have to convert that 4.5cm to metric to plug it in to the milrad math; don't have to do that with moa-everything's in the system we were born and raised with here. At any rate, this is a good subject to learn and get familiar with. I've seen a TON of people have their electronics fail (batteries in a gps, screen on a kestrel, etc etc) and they were ABSOLUTELY dead in the water. They, their little trinket and their 6000 dollar rifles were just a paper weight now.

Definitely both long and unnecessary.

Your posts are actually the classic example of how people still make Mils or MOA seem way more complicated than it is. I do have to wonder - do you even own or use a Mil/Mil or MOA/MOA scope, or are you still sticking to duplex reticles and guessing at misses?

- As others already said, how do you know that your shot was off 4.5" at 435 yards? You don't, other than guessing. On the other hand, that reticle is literally right there in front of you, and it measures for you exactly how far you're off, in THE SAME UNITS as your scope turrets. It doesn't get any easier than that - there is no math involved! And if you can spot your hits, you can get on target after just one shot without even knowing the range, because it doesn't matter for the scope adjustments. If you see it was 1 mil low and 0.7 mils left, you just hold or dial that correction regardless what the range is.

I don't care if "your eyes see in inches" or whatever; that's needlessly complicating the issue for no reason except lack of understanding how to use a mil/mil or moa/moa scope. What you described is how most shooters learned with a duplex or other unmarked reticle, because you don't have a better option with a duplex, but it doesn't make sense to keep doing that with a mil/mil scope. It defeats the entire purpose of having the turret match the reticle.

While Mil/Mil and MOA/MOA scopes can both work equally well, the main reason why I recommend Mil/Mil to most people is when they use an MOA scope they can't resist still thinking in inches at the target. For whatever reason, switching to Mil/Mil helps make a cleaner break away from that flawed thinking.

And if you can't zero with your scope reticle, either choose a better target or maybe you need better scope glass. That doesn't mean you need 20x magnification or Schmidt & Bender glass either; you can get there in the $300-$600 range pretty easy, just stay away from the junk optics.
If you really really have to use a spotting scope to zero, then get one with a mil scale eyepiece. There aren't a lot of options for that, but there are some; Vortex makes one for example.


Last but not least - using a Mil/Mil scope does NOT mean you have to think in meters and centimeters. Besides the point above about not using inches or centimeters anyway, that's a complete misunderstanding of what Mils are. A Mil is 1 lateral unit per 1,000 distance units, or more simply, 1/1,000. That can be 1 meter per 1,000 meters, or 1 yard per 1,000 yards, or 1 beer can per 1,000 beer cans; it doesn't matter. It's just measurement of an angle. The idea that you have to think in meters and centimeters to use a Mil/Mil scope is somewhat common but completely wrong, based in a lack of understanding.
 
The only time you need to do math is when you walk out there and actually measure how far off the POI is from POA

Or if you're trying to calculate distance by using the reticle. It's a fun exercise to do every once in a while - actually had to do it on a shoot last year when fog was scattering the laser.
 
I look at my first shot in my scope.
My miss was 3 tickmarks low and 1 tickmarks left.
How many clicks on my scope adjustment?
 
I look at my first shot in my scope.
My miss was 3 tickmarks low and 1 tickmarks left.
How many clicks on my scope adjustment?

Scopes don’t adjust in tick marks so figure what those are in moa or mils and that’s your adjustment.
 
I look at my first shot in my scope.
My miss was 3 tickmarks low and 1 tickmarks left.
How many clicks on my scope adjustment?

It's up to you to know what those tick marks are relative to scope clicks. It's in the manual, and on a lot of scopes it's printed right on the turret. It'll say something like "1 click = 1/10 Mil" or something like that.

But you also need to know if your reticle has marks for half and quarter mil, or what. Or MOA of course if that's what you have. Kinda like knowing if the speedometer in your car is in mph or kph, and whether there's 1 or 3 tick marks between 50 and 60 mph, or something else - it's not complicated, but you do need to know your reticle.

I guess that may be another reason why some people feel like mil or moa reticles are complicated or too busy, if they don't want to take the time to learn what they mean. Basic User - if that's an issue for you, tell us what reticle you're using (if any) and we should be able to make it pretty easy to understand.
 
I don't use reticles for adjustment when zeroing. I can look at the distance it's off, (my eyes see inches not centimeters) do the math on paper to get the exact (not estimate, because ammos really expensive) amount of clicks, then add that to the turret.
LOL

Do you expect us to believe this bullshit?
 
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Yea, a lot of my friends spotters have no reticle in them. A lot of my friends have mil scopes, and want me to go shooting with them. Then we find out their shit's not even zeroed. It seems that when everyone on this forum goes out to shoot, they have alllllll KINDS of nice custom made set ups all nice and ready for their situation. Nice clear reticle, eric cortina on an 80 power swaro behind them spotting, 34 range flags all the way down to the target, sig LRF, target with mil sized boxes up and down etc etc. Not me. When we go out, it's plain paper targets, maybe a halfway decent spotting scope and that's it. I can't accurately gauge how far off a small set of .223 holes are in that paper way out there with a simple scope so when I look through the spotter, I have to estimate how far off that group is and do the math, so I'm not clicking a few unknown distance clicks, shooting a group, clicking some more, shooting some more until 2 boxes are gone like evvvvveryone else around me is doing at the range. (I can tell because theyre clicking those turrets for 20 minutes lol, letting me know they have nooooooo idea what their turrets are doing)
Maybe you guys shoot at ranges with everyone sponsored by lapua but not me lol. With the proper math, all I should need to do is shoot a solid group, look through the spotter, estimate say 5" in whatever direction, do the math, apply that to the number of clicks and that should be that-zeroed in two groups. I should have the formula for both moa and mil scopes because I can't tell my friends what to buy after the fact :) The fact that we all see and live inches, makes a metric scope kinda unnecessarily complicated. My other question is this; if every single adjustment you guys have ever made in your life was just lining up shot groups on a reticle and either dialing or holding, then why not do moa? A stadia line's a stadia line in that manner isn't it?
You are comedy gold

Troll attempt 10/10
 
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When viewing a target and your POI is not at your POA, why would you care how many inches off you are? Your aiming device is what you use to aim with and it measures angles. It has (or should have) turrets with some angle measurement and a reticle with tick marks in the same angle units - MOA or Mil. Aim at the POA and fire a shot. Re-aim the rifle at the POA then count the tick marks. Suppose the impact is 3 tick marks right. Find your windage turret and crank in 3 tick marks left. Assuming a reasonable range and little real wind impact, your next shot will be at the POA. Range doesn't matter. Inches on the target doesn't matter.

I happen to own some Leupold Mark 4 scopes with MOA turrets and mil dot reticles. This forces me to convert mils to MOA. Not a big challenge - I can assume 1 mil equals about 3 MOA and get close on shot 2 then refine from there. But notice I still don't know the inches or the target range and I don't care. If I am a mil left, then I need about 3 MOA (actually 3.4 MOA but never mind) right. I am on in 3 shots.

All of my printed range cards are in mils. When I shoot from 100 out to 1k, all of my notes are in mils. When I use Applied Ballistics, I get elevation and windage in mils. Length measurement on the target does not matter because my aiming device measures angles, not length.

When you went to the range and the guy had inches on the ammo box, that is a problem but the math is still simple. Does he have a 100 yard zero? Yes. The new target is at 500 yards and the box says 20 inches of drop at 500. 20 divided by 5 equals 4. Dial up 4 inches or MOA - it won't matter much - and fire a shot. Assuming that the number on the box is right for his weapon, he will be on the paper and can adjust from there. Most likely the ammo won't shoot to the number on the box because his rifle is different - different barrel length, tighter bore, whippy barrel, cheap scope, wind, shooter fundamentals, and so forth - lots of variables.

If his scope doesn't have any tick marks then you have to play with inches. But, keep in mind, you can't do precision work with a scope with only a crosshair reticle. How wide is the target? Suppose 12 inches wide, call it 2.3 MOA. How far off am I? Quarter width? Call that 3 inches. Given an MOA scope, 1 MOA at 500 is about 5 inches so 3 inches off POA divided by 5 inches per MOA is 0.6 MOA. Put in 2 clicks or 3 clicks and take a shot. At 500, 1 MOA is about 5.236 inches but the 0.236-inch difference is .045 MOA, the crosshair is wider than .045 MOA, and problems with fundamentals and that fact that he is shooting with factory ammo with inches printed on the box means that 0.045 MOA is not important.
 
When I miss a target at say 800 yards, I look through the scope and visualize myself up there walking toe to heal from the point of impact to the target. That should be feet because it’s my feet, but my foot is not quite as long as a foot, so I put in a correction for that so that foot = feet.

Sometimes I forget how many feet or foots it is and whether or not I have done the correction, so I picture myself up at the target walking toe to heal toe to heel back from the target to the point of impact. And then I multiply by the correction if I haven’t already. Then I check the value from the one obtained from the opposite direction to make sure it’s correct. With or without the correction factor.

Then I multiply by another correction factor and try to figure out how many mill of angle it is. I divide that by the number of clicks in my turret and dial up to that.

The worst is when I am both high or low and right or left. Then I do toe to heal toe to heal at right angles, and use Pythagorean theorem to figure out the hypotenuse. A squared plus B squared equals C squared. I use a calculator for that. Just be sure to solve for C rather than C squared or else you’ll get the wrong number.

Usually, within a box or two of ammo, I get an impact. And then I write that down in my range book for the next time.

Sounds difficult but it’s not. You just gotta know what you’re doing.
 
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Yea, a lot of my friends spotters have no reticle in them. A lot of my friends have mil scopes, and want me to go shooting with them. Then we find out their shit's not even zeroed. It seems that when everyone on this forum goes out to shoot, they have alllllll KINDS of nice custom made set ups all nice and ready for their situation. Nice clear reticle, eric cortina on an 80 power swaro behind them spotting, 34 range flags all the way down to the target, sig LRF, target with mil sized boxes up and down etc etc. Not me. When we go out, it's plain paper targets, maybe a halfway decent spotting scope and that's it. I can't accurately gauge how far off a small set of .223 holes are in that paper way out there with a simple scope so when I look through the spotter, I have to estimate how far off that group is and do the math, so I'm not clicking a few unknown distance clicks, shooting a group, clicking some more, shooting some more until 2 boxes are gone like evvvvveryone else around me is doing at the range. (I can tell because theyre clicking those turrets for 20 minutes lol, letting me know they have nooooooo idea what their turrets are doing)
Maybe you guys shoot at ranges with everyone sponsored by lapua but not me lol. With the proper math, all I should need to do is shoot a solid group, look through the spotter, estimate say 5" in whatever direction, do the math, apply that to the number of clicks and that should be that-zeroed in two groups. I should have the formula for both moa and mil scopes because I can't tell my friends what to buy after the fact :) The fact that we all see and live inches, makes a metric scope kinda unnecessarily complicated. My other question is this; if every single adjustment you guys have ever made in your life was just lining up shot groups on a reticle and either dialing or holding, then why not do moa? A stadia line's a stadia line in that manner isn't it?
Here is how you do it.
2 shot zero at any distance.
Aim. shoot.
Now, steady that rifle. I suggest a rest. Move it around until you are back at your original point of aim. Cinch it down down so the rifle don't move.
Move your turrets until your crosshair is now directly on that bullet hole from the first shot.
Your rifle is now zeroed at that distance.
I mean, IF YOU DO YOUR PART...and shit.
 
When I miss a target at say 800 yards, I look through the scope and visualize myself up there walking toe to heal from the point of impact to the target. That should be feet because it’s my feet, but my foot is not quite as long as a foot, so I put in a correction for that so that foot = feet.

Sometimes I forget how many feet or foots it is and whether or not I have done the correction, so I picture myself up at the target walking toe to heal toe to heel back from the target to the point of impact. And then I multiply by the correction if I haven’t already. Then I check the value from the one obtained from the opposite direction to make sure it’s correct. With or without the correction factor.

Then I multiply by another correction factor and try to figure out how many mill of angle it is. I divide that by the number of clicks in my turret and dial up to that.

The worst is when I am both high or low and right or left. Then I do toe to heal toe to heal at right angles, and use Pythagorean theorem to figure out the hypotenuse. A squared plus B squared equals C squared. I use a calculator for that. Just be sure to solve for C rather than C squared or else you’ll get the wrong number.

Usually, within a box or two of ammo, I get an impact. And then I write that down in my range book for the next time.

Sounds difficult but it’s not. You just gotta know what you’re doing.
Troll level 11/10
 
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Suppose the impact is 3 tick marks right. Find your windage turret and crank in 3 tick marks left.
Except that tick marks are not a unit of measurement. You need to read the poi offset in Mils (or moa if that's your reticle) and turn the knob as much as needed to dial that number of mils or moa.

I'm not going to explain all the reasons why measuring in tick marks, clicks, or anything else other than true angular units is stupid.

It should be obvious.
 
I can't believe this is even a discussion here. LOL!

I was at a 1,000 yard range with friends. I was the first to ring the 1,000 yard steel in the group. I was asked how many inches of windage I was holding off for the wind. I replied, "8 MOA." Yeah... but how many inches? "I have no fucking idea how many inches... 8 MOA!"
 
I can't believe this is even a discussion here. LOL!

I was at a 1,000 yard range with friends. I was the first to ring the 1,000 yard steel in the group. I was asked how many inches of windage I was holding off for the wind. I replied, "8 MOA." Yeah... but how many inches? "I have no fucking idea how many inches... 8 MOA!"
I fucking love answering like that, except in milliradians which makes the fudds even more bewildered. The look is always:
tenor.gif
 
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