I understand the formula, I am using: target size in inches(95.5)/observed size=range. My question is, how do you measure tenths and hundredths of an MOA in a scope? 1.1 or 1.2 may be doable but a 1/100 measurement is what I need to know how to do. For instance, an 18 inch target observed at 1.76 MOA results in 975 yards while 1.72 observed MOA results in 1000 yards. 975 and 1000 are quite different even when shooting a 300 Win Mag at that distance. With a 300 WM, 208 AMAX at MV 2840 fps; 975 yards shows a drop of 226 inches while 1000 yards shows a drop of 244 inches. A clear miss with a very small error of 4/100 on the front end. I use an NP-R1 reticle. I am brand new to range estimation so any and all help is very welcome.
- Thread starter Ryguy
- Start date
You could bracket between the short and long possibilities; but, unless you have a FFP reticle with fractional MOA scale you may not be able to range distance exactly.
Just like with Mil reticles, practice. Go to the range and practice breaking down the reticle and learning where the smaller break down points are in the reticle you have. Some reticles are easier to break down.
That said ranging past about 700 yards is very tough to get right on. That's one of the reasons why people shooting matches shoot rounds that shoot as flat as possible for minimizing the errors.
That said ranging past about 700 yards is very tough to get right on. That's one of the reasons why people shooting matches shoot rounds that shoot as flat as possible for minimizing the errors.
I think if you can reliably measure in tenths of an moa you should be good to go.
How can a shooter reliably measure in tenths of an MOA? Is there a reticle out there that you like which has such definition?
It would be very tough. Usually getting to .25 MOA gets most close enough on target but as noted above it won't be right on at longer ranges. Working with the reticle can get you to possibly break it down more as myself and others can break a mil reticle down to .05 mils by knowing the reticle.
It's all about practice and learning to break down the reticle. You don't have to do it at 1000 yards either. You can put up known sized cardboard at 100 yards and range them. If you are off then look at the reticle and see where your reading of it was off and learn to break it down finer. It works.
It's all about practice and learning to break down the reticle. You don't have to do it at 1000 yards either. You can put up known sized cardboard at 100 yards and range them. If you are off then look at the reticle and see where your reading of it was off and learn to break it down finer. It works.
Everything depends on the reticle and the users ability to interpolate (break down) the reticle.
Think of a pressure gauge with major marks at 10, 20, 30....60 PSI.
Now, it is easy to tell where 15 PSI may be, right? 1/2 way between 10 and 20. That gives you a resolution of 5 PSI.
For most, it will be easy to determine 17.5 PSI also, 1/2 way between what we perceive as 15 and 20. Resolution of 2.5 PSI.
Tighter than that gets a little tougher but larger than 17.5 and smaller than 20 might be 19, might be 18, again judge where the needle is relative to the hash mark you have to work with. Your resolution might not be as good as 1.0 but it will be better than 2.5.
Same same with the reticle, be it mils or moa.
Think of a pressure gauge with major marks at 10, 20, 30....60 PSI.
Now, it is easy to tell where 15 PSI may be, right? 1/2 way between 10 and 20. That gives you a resolution of 5 PSI.
For most, it will be easy to determine 17.5 PSI also, 1/2 way between what we perceive as 15 and 20. Resolution of 2.5 PSI.
Tighter than that gets a little tougher but larger than 17.5 and smaller than 20 might be 19, might be 18, again judge where the needle is relative to the hash mark you have to work with. Your resolution might not be as good as 1.0 but it will be better than 2.5.
Same same with the reticle, be it mils or moa.
Before you start trying to break any MOA, Mil, or IPHY retical down that far, I'd suggest you understand what different lighting does to different colors. Most anything subdued is easy as light does not have the same effect on a subdued target, compared to bright ones. Bright days or lights at night on different colors can be a humbling experience. Most folks have a max error range (weapon, environment + retical ranging ability)they will not work past >/\<. This is the reason some work closer than others. Retical ranging is a good skill set to know and use, for when the battery world goes tits up, you can just revert and press on.
try this: ShooterReady
