Moly vs. non coated
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Re: Moly vs. non coated
"Moly" is actually molybdenum disulfide, a compound that is used like graphite as a solid lubricant. Unlike graphite, it holds up to higher temperatures and pressures. It essentially lubricates the bullet resulting in less barrel wear and reduced pressures as it is easier to squeeze the bullet out of the barrel.
There is controversy over whether moly does harm to the barrel in the long run, so I'll leave my opinion out of the discussion. I have used them and they seem to form slightly tighter groups than an identical non-moly bullet (.308 168gn A-Max in my case).
"Moly" is actually molybdenum disulfide, a compound that is used like graphite as a solid lubricant. Unlike graphite, it holds up to higher temperatures and pressures. It essentially lubricates the bullet resulting in less barrel wear and reduced pressures as it is easier to squeeze the bullet out of the barrel.
There is controversy over whether moly does harm to the barrel in the long run, so I'll leave my opinion out of the discussion. I have used them and they seem to form slightly tighter groups than an identical non-moly bullet (.308 168gn A-Max in my case).
Re: Moly vs. non coated
If your going shoot coated bullets use HbN, it every does everything better than Moly with none of its negatives, I used to coat my own bullets but found my time is better spent shooting than doing another reloading step, I noticed that none of the BR shooters at my club shoot coated bullets, I asked why and they all said the same thing, accuracy wasn't there with coated bullets.
If your going shoot coated bullets use HbN, it every does everything better than Moly with none of its negatives, I used to coat my own bullets but found my time is better spent shooting than doing another reloading step, I noticed that none of the BR shooters at my club shoot coated bullets, I asked why and they all said the same thing, accuracy wasn't there with coated bullets.
Re: Moly vs. non coated
Get a box of each- load up and shoot. MAKE SURE YOUR BARREL IS PERFECTLY CLEAN BEFORE YOU SWITCH FROM ONE TO ANOTHER. And I mean PERFECTLY clean. Moly will keep barrel temps down a bit- more shots in a string before your barrel heats up. It will also require more "foulers" to coat a clean barrel. Also- reduced friction in the barrel because of moly bullets- means lower velocities with same powder charge. With that in mind- what is an "over pressure" with standard bullets- may be safe with molys. Keep an eye out for signs.
See which your barrel likes better and stick with it. I tried them- now have ~30 168g AMAX molys sitting in a tray in my reloading bench that won't see my press until I get a new tube- if ever.
Get a box of each- load up and shoot. MAKE SURE YOUR BARREL IS PERFECTLY CLEAN BEFORE YOU SWITCH FROM ONE TO ANOTHER. And I mean PERFECTLY clean. Moly will keep barrel temps down a bit- more shots in a string before your barrel heats up. It will also require more "foulers" to coat a clean barrel. Also- reduced friction in the barrel because of moly bullets- means lower velocities with same powder charge. With that in mind- what is an "over pressure" with standard bullets- may be safe with molys. Keep an eye out for signs.
See which your barrel likes better and stick with it. I tried them- now have ~30 168g AMAX molys sitting in a tray in my reloading bench that won't see my press until I get a new tube- if ever.
Re: Moly vs. non coated
I shot hBN 2 years ago in Course and Long Range, becasue it was supposed to have the same benefits as moly without the side effects. When I load dev'd the rounds again cause with Moly you loose fps due to decreased friction. Well the velocity came out exactly the same. I didn't adjust the charge and my zero's were the same. This told me that the pressure with hBN was the exact same as nake thus the hBN didn't reduce frcition. If anything I noticed increased friction with it becasue suddenly when seating 123gr and 142gr SMKs for my .260 the seating die was deforming the nose of the bullets, this doesn't happen with non hBN bullets. I didn't notice this in .22cal, .308, or 7mm however just the 6.5's. Needless to say I uncoated all the bullets. Over on the longrange and national match forums severl shooters who initially tried hBN have quit using it as there were no benefits that we noticed.
I am going to go to molly in my .243 as that is one of the key steps John Whidden uses when he runs his 105gr VLD's at 3300fps (yes velocity is correct). I have been VERY hesitant of trying Moly due to the evil corrosion stories you read. I've talked with John a couple of times about this along with his shooting buddy Lamar up at Camp Perry. They're response was yeah you need to clean it but just like you would clean your rifle like any match. German Salazar shares the same thoughts also. The guy at NECO (Robert Johnson?) when I asked about the corosion stories said it isn't true, said if you don't clean your rifle yeah it will, but so will alot of other things. Same with the horror storeis of the carnuba wax used in the NECO process being barrel asphalt. In most cases that is due to excess c;umpy wax on the bullets or deposits in the barrel that have not been cleaned out and been allowed to form over time. So with teh above information I'm going to swallow the pill and give Molly a try this season in my .260, .2880 and Palma rifle and see how it works.
I shot hBN 2 years ago in Course and Long Range, becasue it was supposed to have the same benefits as moly without the side effects. When I load dev'd the rounds again cause with Moly you loose fps due to decreased friction. Well the velocity came out exactly the same. I didn't adjust the charge and my zero's were the same. This told me that the pressure with hBN was the exact same as nake thus the hBN didn't reduce frcition. If anything I noticed increased friction with it becasue suddenly when seating 123gr and 142gr SMKs for my .260 the seating die was deforming the nose of the bullets, this doesn't happen with non hBN bullets. I didn't notice this in .22cal, .308, or 7mm however just the 6.5's. Needless to say I uncoated all the bullets. Over on the longrange and national match forums severl shooters who initially tried hBN have quit using it as there were no benefits that we noticed.
I am going to go to molly in my .243 as that is one of the key steps John Whidden uses when he runs his 105gr VLD's at 3300fps (yes velocity is correct). I have been VERY hesitant of trying Moly due to the evil corrosion stories you read. I've talked with John a couple of times about this along with his shooting buddy Lamar up at Camp Perry. They're response was yeah you need to clean it but just like you would clean your rifle like any match. German Salazar shares the same thoughts also. The guy at NECO (Robert Johnson?) when I asked about the corosion stories said it isn't true, said if you don't clean your rifle yeah it will, but so will alot of other things. Same with the horror storeis of the carnuba wax used in the NECO process being barrel asphalt. In most cases that is due to excess c;umpy wax on the bullets or deposits in the barrel that have not been cleaned out and been allowed to form over time. So with teh above information I'm going to swallow the pill and give Molly a try this season in my .260, .2880 and Palma rifle and see how it works.
Re: Moly vs. non coated
I used moly coated bullets around the late 90's and I saw some big improvements in super fast varmint cartridges. Not individual accuracy improvements but sustained improvements. The group size was not smaller, but I could shoot at least 30 rounds and still keep the same group size instead of 10. I have not seen any corrosion issues that some warned against. You have to watch for a moly ring buildup though. If you clean it regularly, it will be fine.
I went away from moly for a while and I just went back to it in my 260 Rem and 6.5x284. My loads came together as expected and life is good.
I used moly coated bullets around the late 90's and I saw some big improvements in super fast varmint cartridges. Not individual accuracy improvements but sustained improvements. The group size was not smaller, but I could shoot at least 30 rounds and still keep the same group size instead of 10. I have not seen any corrosion issues that some warned against. You have to watch for a moly ring buildup though. If you clean it regularly, it will be fine.
I went away from moly for a while and I just went back to it in my 260 Rem and 6.5x284. My loads came together as expected and life is good.
Re: Moly vs. non coated
What is your 260 load and how much did you have to come up to regain the original non coated velocity? I've read every bullet/powder combination is different. Palma/Varget seems to be about .5gr, John Whidden said his .243 was 1.5gr. What was your .260?
What is your 260 load and how much did you have to come up to regain the original non coated velocity? I've read every bullet/powder combination is different. Palma/Varget seems to be about .5gr, John Whidden said his .243 was 1.5gr. What was your .260?
Re: Moly vs. non coated
I did not have a load worked up with naked bullets. I did not find a combo I liked. After going to moly, I am using a old batch of Accurate XMR-4350 using 43.0 gr in Rem brass with 140 Nosler CC bullets and a .043" jump.
I did not have a load worked up with naked bullets. I did not find a combo I liked. After going to moly, I am using a old batch of Accurate XMR-4350 using 43.0 gr in Rem brass with 140 Nosler CC bullets and a .043" jump.
Re: Moly vs. non coated
I have found the following (assuming everything else is the same):
1.) Moly is not necessarily more accurate nor gives better precision than naked bullets (can vary gun to gun).
2.) It WILL mess up accuracy as you mix moly and naked bullets and requires a couple of fouling shots if you switch in the middle of a string.
3.) You will notice a difference in POI beyond 500 yards. Need a little more elevation for the moly bullets.
Best application for moly: It makes cleaning small varmint calibers (.17 remington, .204) MUCH easier after long strings (100-400 shots) at prairie dogs. This assumes you have a nice hand-lapped match barrel to start with (Lilja).
Good shooting ...
I have found the following (assuming everything else is the same):
1.) Moly is not necessarily more accurate nor gives better precision than naked bullets (can vary gun to gun).
2.) It WILL mess up accuracy as you mix moly and naked bullets and requires a couple of fouling shots if you switch in the middle of a string.
3.) You will notice a difference in POI beyond 500 yards. Need a little more elevation for the moly bullets.
Best application for moly: It makes cleaning small varmint calibers (.17 remington, .204) MUCH easier after long strings (100-400 shots) at prairie dogs. This assumes you have a nice hand-lapped match barrel to start with (Lilja).
Good shooting ...
Re: Moly vs. non coated
I have used moly in a Steyr SBS tactical for over a decade. The main results that I see from moly are that I can shoot 2-300 rounds between cleanings and accuracy does not degrade. That's pretty spectacular. The rifle and ammo are easily .5MOA.
I have used moly in a Steyr SBS tactical for over a decade. The main results that I see from moly are that I can shoot 2-300 rounds between cleanings and accuracy does not degrade. That's pretty spectacular. The rifle and ammo are easily .5MOA.
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