• Winner! Quick Shot Challenge: Caption This Sniper Fail Meme

    View thread

Suppressors Monolithic baffle stack design

microsuck

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 30, 2007
203
27
Richardson, TX
So I am punching out a new baffle stack design. Which do you think is going to be more effective? Baffles at a 90 deg angle to the bore, or baffles at an inverting 45 deg angle to the bore?

A
|_|
|_|
|_|
|_|

B
|/|
|\|
|/|
|\|
 
Re: Monolithic baffle stack design

I know NOTHING about baffle design, really don't. But I was pondering it one day myself and was wondering if the first and last baffle should be 90 degrees and the other 2 or 3 at 45's. No science behind my thoughts, just thoughts.

I'm not throwing my thoughts out there as a suggestion, but more to get others to comment on the idea of mixing the two.
 
Re: Monolithic baffle stack design

There is alot to consider... What caliber? There is to many variables involved to give a straight answer. Yes its nice to have them as short as you can get them but the pressures need to be right in order for it to work correctly.
 
Re: Monolithic baffle stack design

Another thing to keep in mind when desigining your monolithic system is ease of machining. Everything goes out the window if if is too difficult to machine. Meaning it is not cost effective manufacturing. My most recent design uses a 90 degree system but takes a little more time to machine.
 
Re: Monolithic baffle stack design

None of the above. 90 degree "bulkhead" or "washer" baffles are lousy for just about any silencer, and slant baffles are a close second for most calibers.
 
Re: Monolithic baffle stack design

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Conqueror</div><div class="ubbcode-body">None of the above. 90 degree "bulkhead" or "washer" baffles are lousy for just about any silencer, and slant baffles are a close second for most calibers.</div></div>

That would explain why my first can, a Coastal .223 can, sucked so bad. I'm lucky I had prior experience or I would've probably given up at that point with how bad that can was....
 
Re: Monolithic baffle stack design

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Conqueror</div><div class="ubbcode-body">None of the above. 90 degree "bulkhead" or "washer" baffles are lousy for just about any silencer, and slant baffles are a close second for most calibers. </div></div>

The YHM Mite has slant baffles and they suck (I mean they really suck)
 
Re: Monolithic baffle stack design

1) maximize can volume with minimum baffle volume possible.
2) stagger baffle spacing to prevent standing wave resonance.
3) cone baffles with relief in the baffles to keep pressure (and sound) inside the can as long as possible.

Between the 90 and 45 baffles, I like the idea of the 45 best; with CNC, anything's possible.
 
Re: Monolithic baffle stack design

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Malaga2</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Conqueror</div><div class="ubbcode-body">None of the above. 90 degree "bulkhead" or "washer" baffles are lousy for just about any silencer, and slant baffles are a close second for most calibers. </div></div>

The YHM Mite has slant baffles and they suck (I mean they really suck)</div></div>

I thought the mite was average for a .22 can.....
 
Re: Monolithic baffle stack design

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Malaga2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">[The YHM Mite has slant baffles and they suck (I mean they really suck) </div></div>

Do you own a Mite?

I do, and can tell you - you are bad wrong. It works VERY well on my Sig Mosquito, CZ452 American, and Spikes 22 upper. (It lacks enuf volume to be a legit FA can. ) Just this past weekend I had a guy LOL at how amazingly quiet it was.

Its not the "best" (whatever that means) 22rf can out there, but it is darn near the best price for a darn good product.

Thanx for providing inspiration for my new sig line, tho...
 
Re: Monolithic baffle stack design

"Some guy lol'ed at how quiet it is"

Well, that proves it.
crazy.gif


Look at the meter data. The aluminum and stainless mites placed dead last out of over 30 silencers tested in the '09 shootout at SilencerResearch, on both long and short barrels. Just because some yahoo at the range thought it sounded good doesn't make it so. Shoot it next to an AAC Element and you'll feel like you wasted $500. On a P22 the Element is almost 15dB quieter.
 
Re: Monolithic baffle stack design

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: garandman</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Malaga2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">[The YHM Mite has slant baffles and they suck (I mean they really suck) </div></div>

Do you own a Mite?

I do, and can tell you - you are bad wrong. It works VERY well on my Sig Mosquito, CZ452 American, and Spikes 22 upper. (It lacks enuf volume to be a legit FA can. ) Just this past weekend I had a guy LOL at how amazingly quiet it was.

Its not the "best" (whatever that means) 22rf can out there, but it is darn near the best price for a darn good product.

Thanx for providing inspiration for my new sig line, tho... </div></div>

Yes I own a Mite and I stand behind my assertion that it is among the worst performing cans on the market...it is much louder than an Outback,Pilot,Prodegy and Silencerco Sparrow just to name a few that I have tested it against...it is simply not worth the investment...