I hope that I am just totally missing something here. I’m getting the new rig setup with a spuhr mount (first one) and here are my results...so I take off the scope and check the rail (that concerns me a bit). I pulled the action to make it wasn’t resting on anything..for the life of me I cannot get all three of these level (I can’t get the spuhr level at all). I’m hoping that you guys can straighten me out...thanks in advance.
- Thread starter Milemarker28
- Start date
Did you use the leveling wedge that came with the Spuhr? What are the 2 other levels? The Spuhr level could be off but I'd bet the other two are the problem.
You have a lot of variables going on there (error factor in the bubble levels themselves with tolerances, error factor in the bench "vice", turret may not be dead level compared to whatever other variable, etc.) and you're going to be chasing your tail and going nuts trying to get everything perfect with that method IMO.
With what you have, you're going to have to trust that your rail is level to the action, and rely either on the turret bubble and/or spuhr wedge. (I would use a plumb line regardless once you're leveled up with those methods.) There's always the possibility the reticle isn't dead plumb to the scope flat, etc.
My preference is to use the wedge on the Spuhr and lightly tighten the rings to have it close, if it's not already perfect, and then set the mount/rings on a badger dead level - plumb the reticle with a plumb bob line, torque to spec and re-verify. Mount it back on the rifle, torque to the rail, zero, and call it good.
Trust your eye as well - if something looks off then change it until you feel good about it.
You then will have other factors such as when you go and zero your rifle. Is everything perfectly level with our shooting position when we zero? Doubtful - but have everything close enough to perfect mechanically with getting it set-up, and those margins of error are going to be quite slim, and more than likely completely unnoticeable if they exist.
ETA: In your case as an afterthought;
I would torque the mount to spec on the rail, and go off of the Spuhr mount bubble to level - then plumb the scope reticle with a plumb line, torqe the rings and re-verify plumb, and consider it good.
With what you have, you're going to have to trust that your rail is level to the action, and rely either on the turret bubble and/or spuhr wedge. (I would use a plumb line regardless once you're leveled up with those methods.) There's always the possibility the reticle isn't dead plumb to the scope flat, etc.
My preference is to use the wedge on the Spuhr and lightly tighten the rings to have it close, if it's not already perfect, and then set the mount/rings on a badger dead level - plumb the reticle with a plumb bob line, torque to spec and re-verify. Mount it back on the rifle, torque to the rail, zero, and call it good.
Trust your eye as well - if something looks off then change it until you feel good about it.
You then will have other factors such as when you go and zero your rifle. Is everything perfectly level with our shooting position when we zero? Doubtful - but have everything close enough to perfect mechanically with getting it set-up, and those margins of error are going to be quite slim, and more than likely completely unnoticeable if they exist.
ETA: In your case as an afterthought;
I would torque the mount to spec on the rail, and go off of the Spuhr mount bubble to level - then plumb the scope reticle with a plumb line, torqe the rings and re-verify plumb, and consider it good.
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If I'm seeing your photos correctly, you have 4 levels: One on the scope turret, one in the scope mount, one on the rail, and one on the edge of the ejection port.
I think you're making this too complicated. With your high-quality components, you don't really need any of that. It should be safe to assume that the rail on your Lone Peak action is square to the bore, and that the Spuhr mount and its wedge have been machined properly, and that the reticle in the Vortex scope is square to the bottom of the erector housing.
So ignore all the bubble levels and just mount all the pieces parallel to each other:
- Get the Spuhr mount where you want it on the rail, push it forward in the slot so recoil won't move it, and torque its rail screws.
- Use the wedge to make the bottom of the scope's erector housing parallel to the mount.
- Remove the wedge, being careful not to rotate the scope in the mount, and torque the ring screws. (If you leave the wedge in while you tighten the rings, it may get stuck and you'll be forced to drive it out with a mallet.)
- If you want to add a scope-mounted bubble-level, adjust the vise until the bubble in the Spuhr mount is centered and then install the scope-mounted level and center its bubble.
If you want to confirm that the reticle is level, center the bubble and either look through the scope at a distant plumb line or hang a plumb line on a nearby wall and shine a flashlight backward through the scope to project an image of the reticle onto it.
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I'm reviving this old thread, because I have a scope that isn't square to the mount, when I install using the wedge tool. It's a Nightforce NX8.
Anybody else ever have that issue?
I've set like a hundred scopes using old school methods, and was hoping this was going to be a snap. But it isn't going quite as well as I'd have liked... I have a feeling that I'm going back to a plumb bob as my primary...
Anybody else ever have that issue?
I've set like a hundred scopes using old school methods, and was hoping this was going to be a snap. But it isn't going quite as well as I'd have liked... I have a feeling that I'm going back to a plumb bob as my primary...
Make sure there is no gap on the bottom of your scope to the wedge. Shine a light between them or use some really thin shim stock. I put it all together, make so the scope will still turn, and wiggle the scope while inserting wedge. Once you get that solid feel tighten screws just enough so it won't turn. Remove wedge. Torque screws.
Could it be that the reticle is tilted?
those pics remind me of the saying too many cooks spoil the broth
That's what I'm thinking - although the flat spot on the bottom of modern scopes, is supposed to be the datum surface for the reticle installation.
The only other thing after that, would be the surface that "the wedge" mounts to, is off.
Either of those scenarios would be mortifying.
For the record, I am not the OP.
you dont say
next time i'll pay attention to when the thread was started 
Yeah, it's the funniest thing. This forum always seems to have some smartass that thinks they're clever, but without really having anything useful to say.
so why are you here again?
Sometimes, what's NOT is the more important question. I'm NOT here to go down a rabbit hole with you, troll. Please go away. You get all the last words... knock yourself out.
I just used a plumb bob. I'm going forth with the assumption that the reticle is skewed. I suppose that I'll find out when I start making adjustments at distance...
How many angle units? Like 0.25mil per 10mil?
Hell if I know. I tried over a half dozen times to square it up, and it was so noticeably off, that whatever amount it was, was not worth quantifying. I mean, there's off, and then there's OFF.
Ran a plumb line at a reasonable distance, and it now sits square to both a double V-block level, and to the Spuhr mount level.
It’s been said implicitly but I figured I could add my thought to the discussion. My personal view is that I mount mine such that the Sphur mount is the ultimate reference point. That’s the level I will have in the field to reference if I am level. So long as the reticle is square to that reference (however that get accomplished), then it will track true to the relationship of how I will be shooting.
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