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Gunsmithing Mounting Suppressor Sights Glock - Pics

RollingThunder51

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 15, 2009
1,570
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U.S.A.
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I made a decision a while back to mount suppressor height sights on my Glock. This is where some will chime right in and raise a number of issues. To get beyond those issues and get down to the business at hand, let’s square them away now.

1. I can sight right through my can and get all the accuracy I need in the world I live in. That is true.

2. If I change out my sights to sights this tall I’ll have to abandon some of my current holsters as the sight track will not accommodate sights this high. That is a very real consequence.

3. I don’t need to do anything with my front sights as I use a suppressor set that is designed to be used with stock sights. That is a very real option.

But, I have chosen to mount high sights because I wanted more accuracy at longer ranges than I found I got by being able to just exactly line up my stock sights over my can. I wanted a sight picture that had something below the horizon line. My carry rig has no issue with higher sights and my can is dry and deals with the topside heat pathing and resulting mirage well. I wanted higher sights.

I decided after reading a number of similar discussions here at the Hide that I would go with Ameriglo Tritium based suppressor sights for the Glock, their number GL-329 Green/Greens. Their specs are front .315” and the rear .394” high. These are machined out of U.S. sourced alloy steel bar stock and black oxide coated. The tritium inserts are of course from Trijicon and therefore are Swiss. If one didn’t want to pay full boat ($69) for this set, one could just as easily match up a tritium front post with the all black rears.

Getting ready.

To get this job done properly on a Glock we need to add a few things to that which comes with the sights. First a foremost, to do this job properly one needs access to a Glock sight tool made for high sights. The stock Glock tool will not make this job easy and increases the risk of distorting the slide channel in the initial stage. Can you get around it, yes you can, and many do. We won’t here. You will also need some Loctite blue (blue….not red), a couple of tooth pics and sense of center. The Ameriglo front sight comes with its own tool.
Everything you’ll need.

everything-ng.jpg


Oil the threads on the sight tool well. Center the tool over the “capture” pad. Then we clamp the stripped slide down (pad slides on the rails bottom groove) tightly. The inscriptions on the tool must face the muzzle.

LOAD-SLIDE-IN.jpg

PROPER-REAR.jpg


Crank the original rear sight off to the right and only to the right. If the rear sight wont move to the right with reasonable (firm and goodly force) then you stop and tap the sight of (again to the right) with a wood or brass rod.

CRANK-OFF-ORIGINAL.jpg


Put the original sight aside and make space so that you can hand start (no tool) the new high sights. They must be on about 1/8” before we begin to use the crank. New rears go on from the right to the left and only right to left.

HAND-FIT-NEW.jpg


Now we center up the new sight. The force is a constant firm turning. If things do not move, stop and file the sight slightly. That was not required on mine, it went on perfectly.

done-and-centered.jpg


Dismount the tool.

Using the front tool that comes from Ameriglo, carefully get the tool firmly on and unscrew the original front sight base nut inside the front of the slide. It should come right off.

front-tool.jpg


We will use a drop of blue (blue not red) Loctite on the tip of a toothpick and place a single drop on the base thread stud. Put it in the tool first.

mounted-blue-drop.jpg


Use the tool to tighten things up. Get it tight, but do not strip that head.

front-on.jpg


Your done. Adjust rears as required with the tool.

done.jpg


Suppressor sights are available for the Sig, XD, FN45. HKUSP and soon the SWM&P.