What gunsmithing tools do I need to remove the brake on a KAC SR25 EMC? Do I need the vise block? Which one do I buy? I really don't want to screw up my brother's $5k rifle to install a SF762SS. Seems like this brake is on here pretty good. I'm not a gunsmith obviously so all the help would be appreciated!
Gunsmithing Muzzle brake removal for SR25
- Thread starter steaminwilly
- Start date
If your brother has the $5,000 to buy the rifle, it seems he should have the $50-$100 to have a gunsmith remove the brake without damaging the rifle.
However, if your insistent on doing it yourself you'll need the following:
Appropriately sized armorers wrench, large vise (mounted) with v-notched wood blocks to secure the barrel with, and most likely a torch to heat up the rock-set that's holding the brake in place. The wood blocks should be made of hardwood species, be about 2-3"x 4" x 6", and ideally made out of laminated stock to keep from splitting. The v-notch should be cut into the middle of the block and needs only be 1" wide and 1/2-3/4" deep. This "V" is the channel that the barrel will be held in place by, and then set in the vise to secure the barrel. From there the rest is as you would expect...
Again, by the time you've made the jig just to hold the barrel you could have had your local gunsmith do it. It's best if you disassemble the rifle and just bring the barrel as most GS charge by the hour. However, if you don't have an armorers wrench you'll be SOL.
Either way, I still think your best off just having it done by a competent gunsmith.
However, if your insistent on doing it yourself you'll need the following:
Appropriately sized armorers wrench, large vise (mounted) with v-notched wood blocks to secure the barrel with, and most likely a torch to heat up the rock-set that's holding the brake in place. The wood blocks should be made of hardwood species, be about 2-3"x 4" x 6", and ideally made out of laminated stock to keep from splitting. The v-notch should be cut into the middle of the block and needs only be 1" wide and 1/2-3/4" deep. This "V" is the channel that the barrel will be held in place by, and then set in the vise to secure the barrel. From there the rest is as you would expect...
Again, by the time you've made the jig just to hold the barrel you could have had your local gunsmith do it. It's best if you disassemble the rifle and just bring the barrel as most GS charge by the hour. However, if you don't have an armorers wrench you'll be SOL.
Either way, I still think your best off just having it done by a competent gunsmith.
The 762SS brake isn't going to fit the gun if it is in fact an EMC. Also, its not threaded 5/8x24 either, its a 3/4x24 thread patter
Here is what I have done on both of mine and a few other peoples.
Put the upper in a padded vise, use a barrel vise, use the 3/4" opened end box wrench and set it on the brake, give it a good slow steady pressure. Once you have done this, take a dead blow and give it a good smack, it will come off every time, there isn't that much rocksett but the force needed to do it will scare you.
Here is what I have done on both of mine and a few other peoples.
Put the upper in a padded vise, use a barrel vise, use the 3/4" opened end box wrench and set it on the brake, give it a good slow steady pressure. Once you have done this, take a dead blow and give it a good smack, it will come off every time, there isn't that much rocksett but the force needed to do it will scare you.
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Rocksett is heat resistant. That is why it is used with brakes that are suppressor mounts. It has fairly brittle hold.
Soak it in water over night. Then, like someone else said, give it a good forceful punch (not slow even pressure) and it will break free. Do use the proper tools too.
Soak it in water over night. Then, like someone else said, give it a good forceful punch (not slow even pressure) and it will break free. Do use the proper tools too.
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