Who has the scoop on how to make the timing come out right on the first try?
Gunsmithing muzzle brake timing?
- Thread starter Straight Shooter
- Start date
Re: muzzle brake timing?
it would be pure luck to get it right the first time. getting it right the second time is just a matter of math.
the thread pitch is the distance the brake moves per 360° of rotation. take that distance and divide by 360 to get how far it moves per degree. multiply that number by the number of degrees you need the brake to turn to get the amount of shoulder to remove. don't take off too much like i did yesterday and end up having to remove another thread pitch
it would be pure luck to get it right the first time. getting it right the second time is just a matter of math.
the thread pitch is the distance the brake moves per 360° of rotation. take that distance and divide by 360 to get how far it moves per degree. multiply that number by the number of degrees you need the brake to turn to get the amount of shoulder to remove. don't take off too much like i did yesterday and end up having to remove another thread pitch
Re: muzzle brake timing?
I understand that most brakes need to be fitted by a smith due to timing and sizing the opening for the proper caliber.
Is there any just grab and go brakes out there ?
I understand that most brakes need to be fitted by a smith due to timing and sizing the opening for the proper caliber.
Is there any just grab and go brakes out there ?
Re: muzzle brake timing?
how about, cut the treads screw on the blank mark TDC and make the port cuts 90deg or what ever off you mar, clean polish and screw back on or am I way off.
how about, cut the treads screw on the blank mark TDC and make the port cuts 90deg or what ever off you mar, clean polish and screw back on or am I way off.
Re: muzzle brake timing?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SingleShot85</div><div class="ubbcode-body">how about, cut the treads screw on the blank mark TDC and make the port cuts 90deg or what ever off you mar, clean polish and screw back on or am I way off. </div></div>
Youre talking about making a brake, not timing and installing a pre-cut brake which has already had the ports cut.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SingleShot85</div><div class="ubbcode-body">how about, cut the treads screw on the blank mark TDC and make the port cuts 90deg or what ever off you mar, clean polish and screw back on or am I way off. </div></div>
Youre talking about making a brake, not timing and installing a pre-cut brake which has already had the ports cut.
Re: muzzle brake timing?
true, but will this work or am I just talking out of my ass.
sorry to take the tread a different direction.
true, but will this work or am I just talking out of my ass.
sorry to take the tread a different direction.
Re: muzzle brake timing?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SingleShot85</div><div class="ubbcode-body">true, but will this work or am I just talking out of my ass.
sorry to take the tread a different direction. </div></div>
sure that would work. if you have the capabilities of doing that though, you also have the capabilities of installing a manufactured brake properly.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SingleShot85</div><div class="ubbcode-body">true, but will this work or am I just talking out of my ass.
sorry to take the tread a different direction. </div></div>
sure that would work. if you have the capabilities of doing that though, you also have the capabilities of installing a manufactured brake properly.
Re: muzzle brake timing?
That's kind of what we were trying to do but had a hard time establishing zero as we were fitting the brake to an all ready threaded barrel on my 770P 338 Lapua. Meaning we had to keep removing the brake from the lathe for each test fit.
5/8-24
Here is what I was doing. Does this look right.
Test fit came up 1/8th turn short or 45 degrees
1"/24 threads per inch = .0416666 travel per turn /360 =0.0001157 per degree times 45 degrees. = .0052065".
We cut it .0015" the first time then. That got half of it and then we tried to move .015 again but got .002" and sure it just touches right on line but when I tighten it with dry threads it goes past about 1/2 hour on the hour hand if this was a clock. Should I just let it touch and freeze it up with some Blue Loctite?
I still need to cerakote it. I'm thinking if I coat the shoulder where it meets the barrel that may fix it up but being just a coating it would eventually wear down and put me back where I'm at. The 24 thread pitch is pretty coarse and once it touches it doesn't move much when tightened.
If it was yours would you take a lap and try it again or lock it up?
That's kind of what we were trying to do but had a hard time establishing zero as we were fitting the brake to an all ready threaded barrel on my 770P 338 Lapua. Meaning we had to keep removing the brake from the lathe for each test fit.
5/8-24
Here is what I was doing. Does this look right.
Test fit came up 1/8th turn short or 45 degrees
1"/24 threads per inch = .0416666 travel per turn /360 =0.0001157 per degree times 45 degrees. = .0052065".
We cut it .0015" the first time then. That got half of it and then we tried to move .015 again but got .002" and sure it just touches right on line but when I tighten it with dry threads it goes past about 1/2 hour on the hour hand if this was a clock. Should I just let it touch and freeze it up with some Blue Loctite?
I still need to cerakote it. I'm thinking if I coat the shoulder where it meets the barrel that may fix it up but being just a coating it would eventually wear down and put me back where I'm at. The 24 thread pitch is pretty coarse and once it touches it doesn't move much when tightened.
If it was yours would you take a lap and try it again or lock it up?
Re: muzzle brake timing?
Has anyone seen a good writeup on fitting brakes or timing a fluted barrel in an action is about the same thing?
Has anyone seen a good writeup on fitting brakes or timing a fluted barrel in an action is about the same thing?
Re: muzzle brake timing?
that was the exact situation i was in yesterday, i was fitting a brake on a barrel that was already threaded. of course, the brake was about 10° from being perfect. i only needed to remove .001" from the rear of the brake. i put it in the lathe but trying to touch off the tool and only remove .001" on the first try proved to be too much for me. so back in the lathe it went and now .040" was faced from the rear of the brake.
it is much easier to set the shoulder back on the barrel to time the brake since it doesn't come out the the chuck requiring a tool touch off each time you check fitment. i couldn't do it on the barrel yesterday because removing the finish wasn't an option. on a new barrel, a barrel that will get refinished or a bare barrel, setting the shoulder back is the way to go in my opinion.
your math looks correct.
that was the exact situation i was in yesterday, i was fitting a brake on a barrel that was already threaded. of course, the brake was about 10° from being perfect. i only needed to remove .001" from the rear of the brake. i put it in the lathe but trying to touch off the tool and only remove .001" on the first try proved to be too much for me. so back in the lathe it went and now .040" was faced from the rear of the brake.
it is much easier to set the shoulder back on the barrel to time the brake since it doesn't come out the the chuck requiring a tool touch off each time you check fitment. i couldn't do it on the barrel yesterday because removing the finish wasn't an option. on a new barrel, a barrel that will get refinished or a bare barrel, setting the shoulder back is the way to go in my opinion.
your math looks correct.
Re: muzzle brake timing?
300 shares my input. Timing it can be a challenge. I just had a new barrel previously cut / chambered and had to time an action to it and keep the head space tight and match the lettering on the barrel to keep it on top. I was whupped from that one. Same difference, other end. Gray hair will invade your head in the process. Happy Chip Making.
300 shares my input. Timing it can be a challenge. I just had a new barrel previously cut / chambered and had to time an action to it and keep the head space tight and match the lettering on the barrel to keep it on top. I was whupped from that one. Same difference, other end. Gray hair will invade your head in the process. Happy Chip Making.
Re: muzzle brake timing?
If you wish to remove that small of a amount of material accurately the best way would be to hold the brake in a 'V-block' and use a surface grinder.This way you are able to remove the brake and measure the amount removed and return it to exactly the same place to remove more is necessary. A lathe is too rough a machine to do the precision work you wish.
If you wish to remove that small of a amount of material accurately the best way would be to hold the brake in a 'V-block' and use a surface grinder.This way you are able to remove the brake and measure the amount removed and return it to exactly the same place to remove more is necessary. A lathe is too rough a machine to do the precision work you wish.
