My 427 blower motor project.

[LRI]

A few moments where I depreciate the value of my neighborhood. Living amongst senior citizens has its advantages during times like this, as most are deaf as a post.

The data log reveals some interesting stuff. Idle lands around 1050rpm once it warms up. A 0-100% throttle whack sends the RPM to over 3,800 in 400ths of a second. The impressive (or scary) part is that during the blip, the atmosphere inside the engine changes from 14" of vacuum to +11psi worth of boost. This one has some big lungs, lol.

Still lots to do, but it at least starts and moves now.

The dry sump oil pump belt alignment has a small tracking error that I'm still working on. I have a .025" shim on the pump mount now that seems to help. I might have to add a little more.

The next big problem to solve is power management. This is a small tire car, and I estimate the engine to land somewhere around 2k for power output. Putting all of that to a 10" wide radial tire is asking a lot. I am not a fan of 2-step rev limiting strategies on blower motors as it's hell on parts. The mass of a pair of rotors whirling around as they are rapidly +/- in rpm as the computer pulls/adds cylinders (ignition) is not a good thing. A friend who's much smarter than I am has a pretty clever alternative solution using a stock GM throttle-by-wire throttle body. I ordered a pair and am dissecting them now for the upcoming experimental transplant surgery.
If it works, the engine will no longer crackle and pop. It'll just increase rpm, hold, and accelerate off the line with smooth/linear progression. Add some peripherals (traction control), and we might have a good solution for how to launch/control this dumb thing.

 

[nockhunter]

Holy crap that's cool. The headers look like they were a nightmare to fabricate.

Mike

 

[LRI]

Holy crap that's cool. The headers look like they were a nightmare to fabricate.

Mike

They took a minute, lol. Fortunately, I have some friends who are very talented at this stuff. I made the flanges, then spent a week fetching tools and holding shit while he worked.

 

[The D]

In. More videos, pretty please

 

[Maggot]

Gonna drop that into a Corolla?

 

[GreenGO Juan]

A few moments where I depreciate the value of my neighborhood. Living amongst senior citizens has its advantages during times like this, as most are deaf as a post.

The data log reveals some interesting stuff. Idle lands around 1050rpm once it warms up. A 0-100% throttle whack sends the RPM to over 3,800 in 400ths of a second. The impressive (or scary) part is that during the blip, the atmosphere inside the engine changes from 14" of vacuum to +11psi worth of boost. This one has some big lungs, lol.

Still lots to do, but it at least starts and moves now.

The dry sump oil pump belt alignment has a small tracking error that I'm still working on. I have a .025" shim on the pump mount now that seems to help. I might have to add a little more.

The next big problem to solve is power management. This is a small tire car, and I estimate the engine to land somewhere around 2k for power output. Putting all of that to a 10" wide radial tire is asking a lot. I am not a fan of 2-step rev limiting strategies on blower motors as it's hell on parts. The mass of a pair of rotors whirling around as they are rapidly +/- in rpm as the computer pulls/adds cylinders (ignition) is not a good thing. A friend who's much smarter than I am has a pretty clever alternative solution using a stock GM throttle-by-wire throttle body. I ordered a pair and am dissecting them now for the upcoming experimental transplant surgery.
If it works, the engine will no longer crackle and pop. It'll just increase rpm, hold, and accelerate off the line with smooth/linear progression. Add some peripherals (traction control), and we might have a good solution for how to launch/control this dumb thing.

Since your oil pump is belt drive, consider tuning a low pressure safety that will kill the engine incase it chucks the belt.

Tuning a "throttle by wire" throttle body could work. Tracking drive shaft speed co related to front wheel speed to close the throttle body when the drive shaft exceeds the front wheel speed curve. Or if strictly drag racing, just pull a ton of timing out of the launch, not necessarily a 2 step.

Many of the pro drift cars tune the throttle to close at higher RPM to keep the engine off the rev limiter.

 

[502Chevelle]

The HOA is gonna LOVE you! Haha! Very cool project. I’m an old school guy, and this new tech with tuning and stuff amazes me. Bad ass!

 

[chevy_man]

There's a ton of drive by wire throttle bodies, I wouldn't use GM because of the size. I'd think you'd need much bigger to feed a large blower at 2000hp.

The most successful traction control device I've seen is the profiler.

https://moretraction.com/drag-race/profiler/

Which controller are you using for the engine?

 

[Whiskey Tango Foxtrot]

Since your oil pump is belt drive, consider tuning a low pressure safety that will kill the engine incase it chucks the belt.

Tuning a "throttle by wire" throttle body could work. Tracking drive shaft speed co related to front wheel speed to close the throttle body when the drive shaft exceeds the front wheel speed curve. Or if strictly drag racing, just pull a ton of timing out of the launch, not necessarily a 2 step.

Many of the pro drift cars tune the throttle to close at higher RPM to keep the engine off the rev limiter.

I rigged a low oil pressure switch to a shift light pointed right at my eyes. After an oil pump failure that I just happened to catch before airing out the engine.

 

[Evlshnngns]

Thats a beauty of a setup. I'd like to try a supercharger, roots or screw.